Brooyar Climbing Guide

By Lee Cujes with help from Neil Monteith, Herb Brandmeier & Saul Squires. January 2000

Last updated Jan 2013

 

INTRODUCTION

A very different crag for South East Queensland. Brooyar is a large State Forest with several separate sandstone crags. Many routes are overhung, pocketed and sportingly bolted giving pumpy climbing. Due to the nature of the soft sandstone, an ongoing rebolting initiative has been active since around 2005 to bring things up to standard. Safer Cliffs Queensland is funding this work entirely through donations from climbers like you. Please consider helping out. The Forestry Department has placed gargantuan ring bolts along the top of most of the major cliffs which makes top-belays very easy. It's worth noting that many routes (even sport routes) require the climber to top-out and belay up their second. Most of the older routes do not have lower-off's.

ACCESS
The area is situated about 20km north west of Gympie, with the turn-off 180km north of Brisbane. From the 80km/h sign as you leave Gympie drive north for 10km to the Kilkivan turnoff (Wide Bay Highway). Turn left down this (across the bridge) and drive along for 4.6km to find the Glastonbury Creek State Forest (Brooyar State Forest) turnoff on the left. This bitumen road soon relents to dirt, which meanders through the forest with numerous small roads branching off on each side. After a few kilometres, you'll reach a fork. Straight ahead is marked as Petersen Road, and has a campsite marker. Go this way to the campsite (1.1km). The right branch (up a hill) goes to the crags (most of which have signposted car parks).

Crag Snapshot
brooyar map

 

CAMPING

The lovely camping is one of the attractions of a Brooyar weekend. If you follow Petersen Road to its conclusion, you'll reach the Glastonbury Creek Recreation Area which has good grass campsites. There is water (apparently not potable, you should bring your own), pit toilets and fireplaces (BYO firewood, collecting is prohibited). The creek can be good for a dip when there's been rain. Camping fees are $4.85 per person per night or $19.40 per family per night (as at 2009) and must be booked either online or over the phone. You cannot book or pay for camping once you arrive, and the ranger does regular patrols. Do the right thing.

NEW & IMPORTANT: The last field in the online booking form has an area for you to fill in a 'Group Name'. The ACAQ asks that you please put "Rockclimbing Group" on the form. This way, the ranger and the EPA will begin to see climbing as a major user group at this site.

 

MISTAKES? GRIPES?

This guide is not definitive (although it's probably very close having been online and continually updated since 2000). If you know something is incorrect, put a post up on qurank.com so we can fix it. Question marks after grades signifies a wild guess. Stars are given out willy nilly by me, mostly on climbs I have done and thought reasonable.

TOPOS
Thanks to Gary Cobb we now have a PDF Topo Pack (6.5 MB) for each of the crags. This was a labour of love on Gary's part and quite a lot of work. The topo pack is not all encompassing, and is designed to be used in conjunction with this descriptive guide. It was done in 2011 and hasn't been updated since then. For the newest topos, see the SE Queensland Climbing Guidebook - 2013 edition.

PAPER GUIDEBOOK?
Brooyar (and seven other crags) are covered in our new guidebook: SE Queensland Climbing Guidebook - 2013 edition. Grab a copy here.

THE CRAGS 

Black Stump Buttresses Hanuman's Hangout Eagle's Nest Green Lane Hammerhead Rock Point Pure The Wolf's Lair Gymp Crag The Rain Cave

 

LEGEND
BR Bolt runner AKA carrot bolt (requires a removable keyhole hanger)
DBB Double bolt belay
FH Fixed hanger
RB Ring bolt
SLCD Spring loaded camming device (sizes relate to Friends not Camalots)
Sport route. Fully bolted. No trad gear required, but may still require slings.
UB U-Bolt.

 

Black Stump Buttresses

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Very popular new area thanks to the combination of prolific bolting and amenable grades. The crag is 400m past Eagles Nest (if Eagle's Nest is the last crag you come to). Drive up the hill and you will see a large black tree stump on your R, park somewhere here. The crag is on the same side as existing crags and is very close to the road. There is a well trodden path. This area is made up of six small buttresses. Take the scree with large fallen tree running all the way down it.

Routes listed L to R. With the buttress names, we use N and S to indicate north and south.

BUTTRESS N3

Coral Reef 12m 21 Sport
5 bolts. Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top. Left side of buttress.
Henk Morgans & Peter Jones 30/01/10

Rename 12m 20 Sport
5 bolts. Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral reef.
Henk Morgans & Peter Jones 30/01/10

Bio-Organic Plasma Gun 12m 18 Sport
5 bolts. Start 2m to the right of Rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall. Lower off.
Matt Schimke 28/08/10

BUTTRESS N2

Orchid Lane 14m 15 Sport
Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.
Heinz Buscher, Colin Carstens 28/12/08

Found the Salt 13m 14 Sport
Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.
Matt Butler, Colin Carstens 28/12/08

BUTTRESS N1

Note: There are U-bolt anchors above the routes to facilitate top-rope setups, as well as lower-off anchors for lead climbers. Ensure you always top-rope through your own equipment, never directly through the anchors.

Pink Panzer 18 Sport
2m L of HITHP. 8 RB's.
Herb
Brandmeier 2010?

Hand In The Honey Pot 21 Sport
Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RB's to lower-off. It's possible to go L or R in the middle section. Most people take the L option.
Graham Page, Clint Westbrook 20/12/08

Sam Cujes on Annabelistic © L Cujes 2008 * Footprints On The Other Side 18m 19 Sport
Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly left of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.
Graham Page, Colin Carstens 19/2/08

* Annabelistic 18m 18 Sport
In memory of Annabel Choy. Seven U-bolts. Up steep wall to lower-off.
Lara Masselos, Colin Carstens 19/02/08

* Snake Charmer 18m 16 Sport
Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. Seven U-bolts to lower-off.
Colin Carstens 27/12/07

One Legged Dog 18m 13 Sport
Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right keeping right of black strip. Seven U-bolts to lower-off. Some amazing buckets are to be had en route.
Colin Carstens 27/12/07

The Dogs Paw 15m 14 Sport
Start around the corner (right side of small cave) and follow six U-bolts to lower-off.
Colin Carstens 27/12/07

The scree slope you walk down is here.

BUTTRESS S1


Sun Chaser 12m 16
Sport
Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UB’s to DUBB.
Graham Page, A Dodson 12/06

Via The Rainbow 12m 16 Sport
Right of Sunchaser. Six UB’s to shared anchor.
Herb Brandemeir, John Debont 04/07/09

On the pocketed wall between Buttress S1 and S2...

Foreign Exchange 10m 20 Sport
6 RBs to lower-off (on boulder). Rebolted by first ascentionist in 2011.
Herb Brandemeir, John Debont 04/07/09

BUTTRESS S2

Spider Fingers 15m 20 Sport
2m L of Spike, five UBs to DUBB, joins Spike at last bolt, hard start
Graham Page, P Box 29/06/08

Spike 15m 18 Sport
2m R. Up steep wall past five UBs, keeping R of bulge at the top to DUBB.
Colin Carstens, Mark Godsell 27/06/08

* Beyond The Black Stump 12m 19 Sport
2m R. Interesting heel hook start. Four UB’s to chains (quick-clip).
Graham Page, A Dodson 10/06

* Spank The Monkey 12m 20 Sport
Very thin start (direct) quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UB’s to DUBB.
Graham Page, A Dodson 01/07

** Little Wednesday 8m 25 Sport
Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off.
Graham Page, Colin Carstens 19/2/08

Big Friday 12m 26 Sport
Start 2m right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as for LW. 5 bolts.
Inspiration: Antoine Mousette
Perspiration: Matt Schimke 28/08/10

The R side of this buttress is an unassuming looking slab, which surprisingly hosts some of the best routes at Black Stump. Dreamcatcher is a must-do!

The next two routes use the same bolts.

Passage 15m 19
Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UB’s to DUBB.
Graham Page, A Dodson 01/07

Right of Passage 15m 21 Sport
Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.
Graham Page, A Dodson 01/07

*** Dreamcatcher 15m 20 Sport
Similar start as to ROP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UB’s to DUBB. Excellent climbing.
Graham Page, A Dodson 01/07

** Shake and Bake 14m 24 Sport
Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RB's to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday.
Charlie Lewis, Cameron Dougin

** The Enticer 15m 17 Sport
Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.
Gordon Baudino, Colin Carstens 27/12/08

BUTTRESS S3

French Bandit 12m 15
4 bolts. Starts 2m left of Crack Whore. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor.
Matt Schimke 12/09/10

* My Brother's Crack Whore Girlfriend 15
Sport
Charming. Four RB's to DBB (in cavelet). Quite solid and good climbing at the grade.
Graham Page, Charlie Lewis, Clint Westbrook & McLovin.


Terracotta Warrior

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First ascent of Terracotta Warrior

If you're feeling adventurous you may like to go on a quest to find this unique breadknife feature with a flat top set amongst towering hoop pines. 750m north of Black Stump Buttresses car park spot there is a road branching off in the opposite direction to the cliffs. Park here without blocking road. Forge directly through the scrub away from the road (i.e. west) keeping an eye out for rock cairns. Cross a gully, then up the other side to locate the cliffline. Scout around and scramble down a bit to locate the main spire. Walking time five minutes.

* Terracotta Warrior 12m 18 sport
Scramble down either side to access the base. Up the arete with an undercut start. Four UB's to lower-off on top.
Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien 04/05/09

Gutter Ball 12m 16 sport
Starts 2m right of Terracotta Warrior. Up the slab, pull over the small roof and have fun in the scoop. Shares anchor with GTD.
Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe 17/10/2010
 
Go The Dog 12m 16 sport
Shares the first bolt with GB. Fun climbing.
Tim Rowe, Glenn Ferguson 17/10/2010
 
Pottery Class 12m 13 sport
Starts at the right end of the pillar. More easy fun climbing.
Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe 17/10/2010


Hanuman's Hangout

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You can easily walk here from the R end of Black Stump Buttresses (3 minutes), otherwise it's located 200m past Eagles Nest if the Nest is the last crag you come to. Park at the bottom of the slope as you go to start uphill again. Walk uphill 50m, then forge directly L away from the road. When the boulders are tallest, head downhill and will soon find yourself on top of the overhang, 200-250 metres off the road. The scree slope is to the R if facing away from the road. Some old routes exist with carrots at the bottom of the scree; these offer easy generic Brooyar climbing.

Routes listed L to R.

Graham Page on his Bats In The Belfry

Hanuman’s Eye 12m 21 sport
Now a complete sport route - fully bolted. Fairly hard start, then work out on good holds and heel hooks, clip bolt with chain extender before emerging to crux, gaining the corner. Six UB’s to DUBB.
Graham Page, A Dodson 04/06

The Animal Within 12m 19 sport
3m R of HE, six UBs to DUBB. Clip second and go straight up. For a grade 23 variant, go out under rooflet, boulder crux, clip lip and keep going up.
Graham Page, A Dodson 02/07

* Bats In The Belfry 14m 24 sport
Roof traversing which should suit the gym crowd. Eight UB's to DBB lower-off. Long quickdraws recommended to reduce rope drag.
Graham Page, Clint Westbrook 20/12/08

* Slave To Gravity 12m 24 sport
Start up crack chimney feature on the right of the crag. Six RB's to lower off in centre of roof. Semi sloping campus.
Graham Page, Clint Westbrook 20/12/08


Eagle's Nest

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An atmospheric crag with an impressive 40m high main wall which hosts perhaps Brooyar's best climb (although this is a topic for considerable debate!), Looking For The Sun (19). There are some shorter routes for the beginner, and some juggy roof pumps for the more advanced climber. In addition, some steep thin faces should provide enough skin pain for any budding masochist. Eagle's Nest receives shade only in the morning, so get in early. The crag is signposted.

Climbs are listed from R to L. 

The first decent thing found as you walk down the hill is a 6m high, smooth, pockety bouldering wall. On the L of this is a short slab. L of the slab, scramble easily up the rocky slope to the first route located on the upper tier. 

Lilliputian 6m 14
The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Giftzwerg 8m 14

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Rumpelstilzchen 7m 14
Up the orange streak 2m L of G.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Piccolo 6m 14
Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

20-30m of walking L, back down on ground level, past some scrappy, lichenous black slabs. Note that at this point there is a lower tier of cliff which is where someone decided to park their car (see picture Climb magazine issue #4 pg 19). That will be described later. Marvel at the large, eaten-out white and orange scoop.

Alice Fletcher on Miss Kandy Kane © L Cujes 2007 * Miss Manners 20m 15 sport
Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.
Sam Cujes, Lee Cujes 03/05/09

* Miss Kandy Kane 20m 15
The line going directly up the R arÍte of the scoop past five RB's to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off. Brooyar's most ticked route, according to theCrag.com.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 30/12/99. Rebolted: SCQ 2009 sponsored by Glenn F and Tim R.

* Fatman Scoop 20m 23 sport
Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.
Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes 03/05/09

The next five routes are L of MKK, so scramble up to the starting ledge. 

Chris Gibson onsighting Private Investigation © L Cujes 2007

Tally-Ho The Fox 20m 23
Initialled. Stickclip. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Private Investigation 20m 19 sport
3m L. Stickclip. Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain, RB's. Up onto and through orange wall to top.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991. Rebolted by Herb 2010

* Up A Rat In A Drain Pipe 20m 18
Looks intimidating for the grade but in fact, it's great. A steep, fun start off the ledge. Stickclip. Two FHs and five BRs. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002

** Free Range Heggs 20m 17
Starts at the very far L end of ledge. Up the orange scoop past FH's, then wall above. Three FH's and five BR's.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002

Walk back down to ground level, and circle back to the very lowest section of cliff. It should be obvious as a very chalked, bottomless overhanging prow. Two popular sport routes climb this.  

Bosnian Broth 7m 23
The L route with two RB's. The topout mantle is interesting.
Saul Squires 1996? Rebolted: SCQ 2009.

* Blinky Bill's American Breakfast 8m 23
The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one.
Aubury Carter 1997? 

broy2.jpg (35747 bytes)

Above: Adam Donoghue on Bosnian Broth

 

If you continue R from these routes on the lower tier (past the red car), there is some worthwhile boulder problems. From the sport routes, walk back up L to the section of main wall below Private Investigation.

* The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill 8m 17
Really nice. Starts off the large block. A couple of unprotected moves L give a good horizontal break (#1 SLCD), then up R past another break (#1.5 SLCD) and pockets to FH. Traverse a move or so L, then make your way back R through the overhang. Use the DBB located above DC. Walk off.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993

Travails of a Tripping Termite 30m 14
Starts off the block at the start of TGWLOHH, traverses along the obvious line for some way, then climbs back to ground level - pretty stupid says Saul.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993

eaglnest.jpg (25596 bytes)

Above: Neil Monteith bouldering R of the Blinky Bill prow

Digit Crucifixion 10m 18
Starts about 3m L. Very thin wall to horizontal pocket (SLCD). Hard mono pull to FH and then to good holds. From here it's a jugfest (gear) up to the small tree. DBB. Walk off.

*** Looking For The Sun 40m 19
The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arÍte. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crackline. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993  

bro_lfs2.jpg (24606 bytes)

Above: Lee Cujes Looking For The Sun 

The 30m wide section of wall L of LFTS is black, high, juggy and quite easy. A number of easy long routes have been established here, but due to the homogenous nature of the wall, accurate descriptions are a bit difficult. Be careful with any natural gear on these routes.

* Send Me An Angel 40m 17 sport
A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RB's.

Graham Page, Clint Westwood 16/7/09

** The Pioneer 40m 16
Initialled. 5m L of LFTS. 11 RB's. A good introduction to lead climbing. Consider why standing on the pillar may not be the best idea if your leader falls.

Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998. Rebolted: SCQ 2009 sponsored by Ben D.

Lichenous Fury 6m 11
Matty enters the world of new routing. A trad route up the boulder below of 2FT.
Matt Schimke, Chester Ryan 20/7/08

The climbing on the next two routes is very similar, except for the finish. You need an assortment of big wires for both.

* 2 For Tea 35m 14 sport
Initialled. 4m L of TP. Nine RB's.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998. Rebolted 2012.

* Tea For 2 35m 15 sport
4m L. 10 RB's.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998. Rebolted 2012.

** 2,4,5-T 42m 17
Starts at the tree after the corridor. Six BR's and one FH. Move L at the beginning of the big V-groove, then straight up. A worthwhile climb.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998

* Little Ray Of Sunshine 45m 17
3m L of 2,4,5-T. 10 RB's (crux around the first, be careful) then easy to final roof. Find the key undercling and climb through roof direct.
Graham Page, D O'Flaherty 7/04

** It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy 45m 16
Start at the end of the corridor 4m past tree. Straight up to RB, then onward, finishing through centre of bulge. 10 RB's.

Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002. Rebolted 2012.

At a right angle to the Tip a Fairy bollards, you find two short but nice little climbs, one corner crack and one face climb (not named). 3 BR's on the face climb.

Choss And Chickenheads 45m 16
1m L of detached pillar of rock leaning against the cliff base. Climbs up a pocketed slab to the first BR at about 6m (!). Above the BR is most likely naturally protected and is slightly vegetated in parts. Not too inspiring. Take slings for pro on chickenheads and beware of the chossy headwall. Surprisingly, this route does get traffic.

 

* Chicken Wings 10m 16
4m L of CAC. Five BR's, chain belay.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002

Prima Diva 8m 18
3m L of CW. One FH, two BR's. Chain belay. Not great.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002

Prima Donna 8m 22
2m L of PD. Two FH's, one BR. Looks good but could do with a clean. Presumably a shared chain belay.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002

As you continue walking L, roofs start to appear. The next few routes are in the first little roofed-amphitheatre encountered. 

Lithgow Layback 15m 24
sport
Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.
Hayden 10/2004

Dreaming of the Blueys 15m 25 sport
2m L. Initialled. Apparently it does go direct through the roof (!?). Finish as per previous.
Hayden 10/04

Who Is On First! 15m 23
2m L at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof. Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.
Herb Brandmeier

* Celluloid Hero 15m 21
A roof you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arÍte below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991. Rebolted: SCQ 2009.

The Skirt 15m 17?
Starts 1m L of CH on the arÍte. Up arÍte to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to ledge. Finish at CH's anchors.

Leave No Turn Unstoned 13m 19
3m L of the arÍte you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Do it. Good. Now climb the blocky corner on natural gear to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall (BR and FH). Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out (a chain is needed here).
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

About 15m L, on the far R-hand side of the next amphitheater is a fantastic eucalypt growing up against the rock.

* Central to Blackheath 15m 24 sport
The R to L line under the overhang. Six RB's to lower off. Climbs a bit differently than it looks. Good though, especially if it rains!
Graham Page 02/05/2009

* Pantsed 20m 16?
L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheater is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

(Woosah 20m - Project)
Long project before "Johnny Gun" up the high white pillar. Stay off until completed. 9 rings.
FA Graham Page 3/05

* Johnny Gun 15m 22
Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BR's), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station. Ask Neil about the name!
Neil Monteith 1997? 

15m L of JG, you can scramble up into another little overhanging enclave where two walls meet. The L is 8m high, orange, pocketed, and slightly overhung. The R is sandy, very rounded and smooth, and very overhung. Routes could be done here. 

L of here, the rock becomes a bit vegetated in the breaks - walk about 20m past the enclave, past some blue, lichenous, ledgy rock. 

Prospector 20m ??

Shallow orange corner. BR's. Rap station up high.

Inspector 20m ??

4m L. BR on black gritstone. Up. Shared rap station.

Crimp And Dyno 26 or V5
Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. "Impossible" boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree.
Hayden 2004

The Big Nothing 7m 11
8m R of the Let's Bail arete. This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Stepping Stone 10m 23
Feeling kinda sporty? The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arÍte. Three FH's (the top one is a 45 deg hanger) up a smooth wall leads to a juggy top. 
Albury Carter 1997?

The Dog's Day Off 10m 19
The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

* Let's Bail 10m 20
The arÍte 5m L of corner. One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arÍte to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arÍte lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank. The last route Saul did at Brooyar.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993

Bust A Move 10m 21?
3m L of arÍte. Marked BAM. Four BR's and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.
Graham Page 3/04

Further to the L the buttresses break down and are probably only good for bouldering. 


Green Lane

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A beautiful small crag with some of the best rock around. Recent rebolting efforts have made the routes even better. Drive down the road about 500m past Eagle's Nest and park in the Point Pure carpark, but walk back down the road (towards Eagle's Nest) to the "Greene Road Abseiling Points " sign. Don't walk down "Greene Road" though. 10m R of Greene Road, a small track leads down a gully to the base of the cliff. Green Lane is shaded in the morning, but no good after rain.

Climbs are listed from R to L.

The descent gully splits the crag in two. The left hand side (looking at the crag) is much bigger than the right. Let's start around 15m R of the descent gully:

DH3 6m 22
2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

A Walk In The Garden 10m 15
More like wading through compost - stay away! The 110 degree corner 20m R of the descent ramp. Up corner to tree belay on R.

* DH4 7m 20

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FH's to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

The Dirty Corner 8m 17
Not overly dirty, could be okay. 10m R of the descent gully is this ever-steepening naturally-protected corner with an exciting exit.

Coexisting With Insanity 8m 21
The orange arÍte 1m L of TDC. 2 FH's to ledge, then up past a third FH to the top. You may wish to stickclip the first.

grenlane.jpg (54091 bytes)

Above: Neil bouldering on some superb rock just L of DH4. The Dirty Corner is visible behind

 

Thanks For The Fish 10m 17
2m L. Grade 17 leaders will find the start requires a stern crank. Up wall past a two BR's before trending L to DBB. You might as well finish at the top of the cliff though.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Keri Green 1993

Green Eggs and Spam 8m 21
Originally soloed by Saul in 93, this is now a bolted route. In between TFTF and BED, three FH's to chain.
Saul Squires 1993
Bolted by: Herb Brandmeier, Warren Prentice 2006

* Book Em' Danno 10m 13
3m L of TFTF. First climb to the R of the descent gully. Starts a couple of metres left of TFTF at the small corner. Crux is down low. Up slabby wall past two BR's and DBB to overhung juggy top. The top out finish is apparently 16.
Dani Geraghty, Keri Green, Saul Squires 1993

Inspiration 8m 16
The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.

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Above: Philippa Newton leading Book 'Em Danno

 

Now we move over L of the descent gully.

Tests And Titosterone 9m 10
Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

Sweetness And Light 10m 12
The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.

Angel Dust 15m 21
"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

Uzis on Speed RHV 18m 19
After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993

* Uzis On Speed 15m 21
Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face three RB's. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and RB to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final RB (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (chains). Lower-off or continue clipping a rebelay bolt and belay up your second. A RHV (19) goes up and R after first BR around arÍte (FH and gear).

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Above: Lee attempting the onsight of Uzis On Speed

 

** Sea Of Fools 15m 22
A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past a BR onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's FH out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with a BR and a FH to the top.
Andy Anderson, Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, Dani Geraghty 1993

* Ship Of Tools 15m 22
As for SOF to second BR at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arÍte (BR). Up this exposed arÍte.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Andy Anderson 1993


* Herb's Hammer 10m 22
Start from boulder 2m L of SOT. Chalked undercling and jugs (FH) to R-hand dyno. Over bulge (FH) and finish as for SOT (up the arÍte past a BR).
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

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Above: Neil getting a spot while clipping the first bolt on Herb's Hammer

 

** Hate Crimes 15m 23
A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT. Power up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's. Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight. Lower-off.
Saul Squires 1993

 

Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell 15m 24

A contrived variant finish to HC. Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse 2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping a final FH back L. Finish easily.
Saul Squires 1993

* Herb's And Spices 15m 21
Herb's first new route. A hard start up the R-sloping arÍte. Three FH's, BR and final FH.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Mr Medium Man 15m 23
1m L of HAS and just R of the obvious roof. A very hard start then up passing four BR's.
Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth 1993

Left of MMM is an obvious chalked bouldering wall capped by a small roof with an incipient thin seam running up it. Good practice for finger locks. Walk 10m left underneath the roofs to get to the next climb.


No Ethics 15m 23
Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start of this route have been chipped - not cool). After blank wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.

No Scruples 15m 23
No matter how many good routes you put up, you chip a couple and that's all you're remembered for. These routes deservedly get very little attention.

* Herb's In The Fernery 15m 18
Off block onto easy orange slab climbing this past UB to roof. Up overhung headwall past two UB's to DUBB. Previously the scene of a huge controversy aired on the pages of ROCK magazine.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991. Rebolted: SCQ 2009

* New Day Rising 15m 15
A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS. Pull onto the grey slab with a grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a three UB's to an awkward bulge. Finish past a final UB to a chain anchor. Thread and lower.
Dani Geraghty, Saul Squires 1993. Rebolted: SCQ 2009

The End Is Nigh 12m 13
10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three BR's.
Keri Green, Dani Geraghty 1993

Herbal Tea 10m 22
10m L again is a detached pillar with one route up it. Up past three FH's to chain.

Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991


Hammerhead Rock

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A new micro crag which may be a useful escape if Black Stump is crowded. Here you'll find a handful of short, well-equipped sport routes with a nice selection of grades, complete with lower-offs (good for beginner to intermediate climbers). To get here, drive to Green Lane, then turn down Greene Road and follow for 200m - the crag is obvious. Park without blocking road. Thirty second walk-in up the hill. The cliff gets afternoon sun. Make sure you jump on Catch Of The Day - it's the pick of the bunch.

Routes are listed from L to R.

Irukandji 7m 15
On the far left of the cliff is a short buttress with a perched block on top. This route climbs this. Two UB's to lower off.
Lee Cujes 08/06/09

Not On Porpoise 8m 18 sport
Four bolts starting just to the L of small cave feature. Enjoy the unique sidepull feature 'till easy ground. Shared anchor.
Matt Schimke 26/03/11

Chironex 8m 18 sport
Just R on short, steep, scoopy orange wall with good holds. Three UB's to lower off.
Lee Cujes 08/06/09

Alice Fletcher on the first ascent of her Grey Nurse (15) © L Cujes 2009 Hook Line And Sinker 10m 18 sport
15m R at weakness up L side of slab apron. Up past UB to ledge (UB). Clip UB above bulge, then a layback crux pulling through bulge to slab and ledge (two UB's). Shared lower-off.
Chris Gibson 07/06/09


* Becalmed 13m 16 sport
6m R at base of slab apron. Up pockety, low angle gritstone slab past two UB's to base of vertical wall. Up on scoopy holds past a couple of UB's to join previous route at the ledge (sharing final two bolts). Shared lower-off.
John Martin 07/06/09


* Grey Nurse 10m 15 sport
Start in chimney on far R of main wall. Chimney up the notch and pull around L on to face (UB). Traverse L to middle of orange and green wall. Up past four UB's to ledge and shared lower-off.
Alice Fletcher 07/06/09

** Catch Of The Day 10m 20 sport
Start as per previous, but move up and R into leaning orange corner. Up this to roof. Exhilarating moves through this to lower-off right out on the tip. Five UB's. Sure to bring a smile!
Sam Cujes 08/06/09




Point Pure

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Some good longer routes with a mixture of bolts and natural protection. From the Eagles Nest carpark drive 500m along to find an intersection. Take the left road and park in the Point Pure carpark. From the lookout walk left and down to the base of the cliff. The classic overhang The Great Devoid is found on the far R of this crag. As Point Pure features Brooyar's softest rock, beware of choss and keep an eye out for dodgy bolts. If it moves, don't trust it!

Routes are listed from R to L.

The Forgotten Name 12m 16
Forgettable climbing on the access track. Start R of DJA. Four BR's with a slight left trend in the top half. Tricky start and finish. A RHV is doable by moving R at second BR to break (gear) then up to BR and top.
Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams 1996
RHV: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osbourne, Ben Carter 05/06/2004

Don Juan's Appendix 12m 12
Starting just R of the obvious overhang, boulder up to a BR. Climbing diagonally L, move past another BR and a large wire to the last BR. Trend L over the prow (don't go through the orchids).
Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth 1993

Over De'void 15m 16
As for DJA to second BR, then L towards the void to another BR, then straight up (runout) to a final BR. A fall before the final BR could be very serious. That said, this route still seems to get plenty of traffic for some reason.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Dave Whitworth 1993

Peta Barrett on The Great Devoid © S Hailstone 2003

*** The Great Devoid 15m 22
A testpiece at the grade. Start under roof. Stickclip first UB, then out very steep overhang on mega spooky but amazingly solid flakes (past UB's). Push through onto the less-steep, juggy face to clip-n-lower. Easiest way to clean it is to toprope it.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth 1993. Rebolted: SCQ 2009 sponsored by Charlie.

* Pipeline 15m 24 sport
1m L. Burly climbing straight up the pipe feature (three UBs). Hands on the L flake, feet will find their way R. Join TGD at the lip.
Lee Cujes 20/09/2008

Lee Cujes on the first ascent of Pipeline © E Smits 2008 Now, a series of mini-routes...

* Losing Fingers 8m 25
Like pain? It seems the punters do! Very overhung line of finger-destroying holds 5m L of TGD past three rings to double rings. Basically, if you're strong, the holds feel fine, if not, get the bandages ready.
FFA Unknown

Yellow Country Teeth 8m 25 sport
The blank looking bit of wall with the ring bolts in it. It's all there if you look hard enough! Has an easy slab finish.
Ross Ferguson 26/09/10

* Orange Flavoured Hand Grenade 8m 22 sport
Joe's first new route! Three RBs to glory.
Joe Driver 03/05/2009

Barroom Brawl 7m 25
4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.
Inspiration: Phil Box 2008
Perspiration: Tom O'Halloran 2010


Unleash the Swarm 15m 19
sport
Starting on little platform, up into awkward sandy corner past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move. Five UB's.
Lee & Sam Cujes, Chris Gibson, Alice Fletcher, JJ O'Brien 8/6/08

** Reid 15m 19
6m or so L of LF is a corner that goes up and to the R. Three BR's and a #1.5 SLCD. Continually interesting slab climbing.
Guy Pearce, Chester

* Sinister Exaggerator 15m 22
Starts 3m L of the above climb, and just R of the arÍte. Four RBs and some sloperness. Gritty. Always feels hard and for some, impossible. However tempting, the tree is not in.

Neil Monteith 1996. Rebolted SCQ GF and RF 2010.

FIGJAM 13m 21
Further around from SE is a set of L-leaning twin seams. Climb the L one. The top needs a clean.


I tried hard to find these next two but had no luck. No great loss.

DH1 4m 21
At the R end of the ledge on the first set of good holds. Straight up to ledge.

DH2 6m 23
Same start as DH1. Up to the L. Que?

Now comes a black, R-facing wall, 9m L of FIGJAM.

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Above: Marty Blumen bouldering a project on the lower tier

Stone Merino 15m 18

Not inspiring. Up middle of the black wall past a BR and a ring.
Chester, Rod Keep

Catch your breath as you walk down L of the black wall to find another lighter coloured wall which is big, overhung and blank. Impressive! There is an upper and lower tier of this wall. The upper tier has some climbs on it. The lower tier has bouldering. First the upper tier:

Lee Cujes on the first ascent of Reverse Psychology © C Gibson 2008 * Pebbles 22m 25
Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RB's to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.
Craig Pohlman, Andrew Audsley 24/12/04

(Closed Project)
Up the blank wall.

* Reverse Psychology 15m 27
Walk along ledge to access. Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness (RB) to break. Crack takes #3 camalot and/or your biggest wire. Final sandy crack past last RB leads to rap station.
Lee Cujes 8/6/08

* The Missing Link 8m 21
A spicy little entree, linking into The Great Barrier Reef. Starts on the furthest protruding part of the ledge (walk along to DUBB on ledge). Rebolted in 2004(?), this route has one ringbolt, and three FH's.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Above and to the L of the finish of that climb is a DUBB that is reached via abseil, and is the starting point for the following route. To get there, rap down the R-side (facing out) of the prow off the big rings.

*** The Great Barrier Reef 18m 13
Now rebolted! An excellent, adventuresome classic starting at the semi-hanging DUBB and climbing diagonally R following six or seven UBs up the juggy, exposed arÍte. It is a very obvious line and you can get good photos with a telephoto lens from the lookout. A great route to wow the beginner.
Dave Whitworth, Michael Long 1993


Now back down to ground level, L of TGBR's prow:

Tight As A Drum 30m 24
A fearsome-looking short corner perched up in space, but actually pretty fun. Lead up the short lower tier past a BR (long sling) to the ledge where the route is initialled "TD". Up into the overhung corner (two FH's and fixed wire). Lean out and clip bolt, before facing a mega-move R to a jug on the arete. At least the fall is clean! The route was originally done pulling on this bolt at 22 A1 (probably the go for your seconder unless they enjoy prussiking). Straight up the juggy wall above past one FH and a couple of bits of trad.

FA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
FFA Lee & Sam Cujes May 2008

Now there is a black, juggy, vertical wall with highly featured rock. Quite impressive, with a number of natural pro routes on it. The natural pro routes are pretty scary because the rock isn't that great, but at least it's juggy.

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Above: Lee races up the headwall of The Great Barrier Reef while Neil nervously watches the approaching thunderstorm

Info needed: "From Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad to the Cornflake Climb has all been retrobolted with possibly a couple of new variant finishes added...someone will need to confirm."

** The Cornflake Climb 25m 18 sport
Starts to the L of the main overhangs below an overhanging block at the top. Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who would want to do it the easy way? Now all ringbolts.
Rebolted 2010 with rings.

** Coco Pops 25m 15
2m L of TCC, marked CCP. Seven BR's. More user friendly than TCC, with a tough little roof move which is often a "first real heelhook, wow!" move for the leader. Fairly runout and airy for the grade.

Mechanical Disadvantage 25m 14 sport
Now ringbolted. Initialled. 5m L of the previous route at the very old paint initials - you may not be able to see them. A rather unprepossessing route.

Cold Fusion 25m 17
2m R of ICSJ. Six BR's. Move R after 5th bolt into right-hand crack. Not so good.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad 25m 16
Initialled. Start just right of stump, then climb past two BRs to ledge. Up and left on wires and cams to BR at start of left-leaning crack. Straight up past another BR. An interesting headwall puts some spice into otherwise generic vertical Brooyar climbing. A RHV (grade 18) climbs the original to ledge, then up and R on wires to BR below converging cracks. Up past another two BRs.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993

Info request: "From Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad to the Cornflake Climb has all been retrobolted with possibly a couple of new variant finishes added...someone will need to confirm."

The next two "routes" are inside the chimney between the lookout and the main cliff. These routes tend to be very dirty and are reserved for masochists only.

The Back of the Chimney 8m 8
The back of the obvious chimney at the big tree. Rap down. Start below and top-out in the gap between the boulders at the back of the chimney.

The Middle of the Chimney 8m 8
Start below and top-out in the last gap between the boulders before the front of the chimney.

Sensible climbing resumes on the L of the chimney on the face beneath the lookout.

The Jamb Crack 15m 20
The next wall round to the L of the black juggy wall has an obvious hand / fist crack in it up high.

 

Big Mouth Short Crack 15m 22
Start 2m L of TJC. Mantle up to a BR in orange enclave. Traverse L and mantle out onto wall (wire). Either climb out L onto face trying to find the BR's amongst the forest of lichen, or trend up the natural line (gear) until you step L (BR) and reach the overhung, bolted corner (two big FHs). Up this with some difficulty to finish at the lookout.

 

Overhanging Corner 15m 21

Your imaginative route-naming dollars at work. Start 6m L of BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder. Up the slab (BR) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above. Up the lichenous face (BR's) to arrive at the headwall 1m L of the bolted corner. Up this (FH) to finish at the lookout.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2003

** Your Hovercraft Is Full Of Potatoes 15m 20
L again is this really nice arÍte with about five BR's or so. It has a well protected but awkward flaky roof move (crux) at the start and then up the juggy bolted arÍte. To get to the start walk around L and then up to the start platform.
Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth 1993

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Above: Sequence of Lee onsighting Your Hovercraft Is Full Of Potatoes

* Suddenly Sober 10m 14
3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Large hex used at the belay.
Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne, Ben Carter 05/06/2004

I'm Not Lichen It 10m 16
Up the obvious corner 5m R of Sunny Day. Not that bad, says Gareth.
Gareth Llewellin, John Taylor 15/04/2006

Now you've got to walk up a little gully to find an overhanging manky-looking arÍte.

Sunny Day 9m 21
Initialled. Apparently rebolted? Yes?

Rainy Day 9m 18
Initialled. 1.5m L of SD. Massive flakes to BR, then a homemade rusty FH, then up. Rap chain at top.The rock looks okay, but supposedly the big flake on one of these climbs creaks when you grab it. Sounds fun.

No More Gaps 9m 17
Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams 03/1999


The Wolf's Lair

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A further 1.1km down the road from Point Pure is The Wolf's Lair. The rock is pretty good and all the bolts are glue-in's. Park where a small dirt road branches off on the L side of the road and walk across the road and down to the cliff. There is basically no track, so you'll have to search around a bit - look for the top of the cliff! Walk down the left side (looking out).

Routes are listed from R to L.

* Predator 13m 24
Start 2m R of Awesome Wells. Thin slab (FH) to ledge. Up overhanging wall (#1 SLCD and two FH's) with some technical moves to chain.
Neil Monteith 15/3/98

** Awesome Wells 15m 21
A classic overhang and pretty solid at the grade. Initialled. Four BR's, FH to rings.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

* Awesome Fearsome 15m 22
Initialled. Not much harder than the original. Now rebolted.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991

Sand In My Pants 15m 17
Starts in the fairly obvious corner 2m L of AF. It follows the corner up until you are standing on a ledge next to a large epiphyte, then traverses R to the arÍte and finishes up the dirty, sandy slab with good pro in the crack in the wall to the R. Not even recommended by the first ascentionists.
Tom Walsh, Radomir Schmidt 4/98.

Sheep Clothing 13m 21
Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending R past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains.
Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes 15/12/97

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Above: Neil on the first ascent of Predator

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Above: Lee nailing the last move on Awesome Wells

 

Suitboy 13m 21
Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arÍte. Clip FH and climb up and L to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain.
Neil Monteith, Dan Meyers 27/10/97

 

* Carnivore 9m 28 sport
The hardest route at Brooyar went begging for 11 years! The recipe blends some modern techo bouldering with some old school flavour in the form of tough fingerlocks...mmm, zesty! Rebolted after the first ascent (four rings) to encourage repeats! U-bolt for belayer on ledge to start and rap anchor at top.
Inspiration: Neil Monteith 25/10/97
Perspiration: Lee & Sam Cujes May 2008

(Project - Graham) sport
Keep off until sent.

The next route climbs an arete above Carnivore. You rap into it down a gully, from the top of the cliff.

* Bio Logic 12m 13
Rap down to tree belay at base of two arÍtes. Climb the R one past three BR's and a chicken head sling. Overhung in places and very juggy.
Dan Meyers, Neil Monteith 26/10/97

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Above: Philippa seconding Bio Logic

 

* The Big Bad Wolf 15m 23 

The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip and finish on the ledge. Rap.

Chris Coghill 15/7/2000

 

Good bouldering is found on the three metre high wall below Carnivore. No established problems have been recorded as most are around V0.

Bonus: Herb says above the ledge where the hardman routes end & to the top, there are 6-7 routes bolted, short, like 10m or so, all in the 16-17 grade bracket. Apparently you have to abseil down to the ledge to start them. These remain un-named. 

 


Gymp Crag

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The Gymp Crag can be found between Wolf's Lair and the Rain Cave, and the parking spot is 1.42km from Point Pure. Park, and forge directly away from the road. If you find yourself on top of some rock, head downhill (scattered boulders) and around R passing a pocketed wall.

Routes listed R to L

Graham Page on the first ascent of The Gymp Was Disturbed © Janette 2008

The Gymp Is Sleeping 15m 21 sport
Climbs the line above the lip of the roof with FH's. Starts serene with the traverse in from the right, then gets rowdy and tries to buck you off.
Neil Monteith 1997

The Gymp Was Disturbed 15m 23 sport
Up the orange face, through roof to lip (but resist the urge to mantle it!). Traverse the lip the entire way, joining TGIS at its anchor (hidden from view). Seven RB's to lower off.
Graham Page, James Colwill 04/2009

The Gymp Was a Boy From The Bluies 10m 21 sport
Starts on L arete of the crag and goes up then out R to shared station. Five RB's to chain.
Graham Page, Clint Westwood 15/7/09

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Above: Sequence of Neil on The Gymp Is Sleeping, and on the far R, Marty Blumen bouldering

 


The Rain Cave

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This small area is 1.5km from Point Pure and is partly visible from the road off to the R. Park off the road before the yellow "S - curves" road sign and walk up R toward the rocky outcrop. Walk down around this to encounter a large roof with solid huecos and fins. Superb roof bouldering with great landings are to be found here, even when it's pouring rain, which is the area's main drawcard. None of the following problems use the bottom ledge. Saul says: "I don't want to steal anyone's thunder, but the problems described sound remarkably like those done by me and Andy Anderson in 1993". I say, whatever, it's all good!

Problems listed from L to R. These are really just examples. Go forth and do your own as well.

Come And Get Me 4m V2

The line of huecos in the roof, perpendicular to the lip, starting as far in as possible on an undercling pocket. Work straight out the pockets to where it blanks, then throw up R and move up to the top flake, then (as for TJNNFT) out this to the jug 1m before the lip.

Erik Smits 29/12/99

 

Just Keep Hanging On 6m V3

A pumpy endurance number. The smooth flake starting on the very far L and traversing R (remember, no bottom ledge). At the end, drop down to the next flake, then a long move past blankness (crux) and continue to finish on little prow.

 

There's Just No Need For That 3m V0

A good warm up. From the middle of the smooth flake, go up and out towards lip on the line of jugs. Finish at the jug 1m before the lip.

Erik Smits 29/12/99


I wonder if Saul ever did this megaclassic...

Zilch V1

A zero move problem! In the middle of the smooth flake are two very sloping hand-sized pocket-slots. Chalk like mad then hang for 5 seconds feet-free to get the tick! Pure sloper power only - pinching of any kind is not allowed. How long can you hang? Pull-ups and one arms for the beasts.

Lee Cujes 29/12/99

There's also the mega traverse from L to R, plus there are various up problems if you keep walking R.