CAMPING The lovely camping is one of the attractions of a Brooyar weekend. If you follow Petersen Road to its conclusion, you'll reach the Glastonbury Creek Recreation Area which has good grass campsites. There is water (apparently not potable, you should bring your own), pit toilets and fireplaces (BYO firewood, collecting is prohibited). The creek can be good for a dip when there's been rain. Camping fees are $4.85 per person per night or $19.40 per family per night (as at 2009) and must be booked either online or over the phone. You cannot book or pay for camping once you arrive, and the ranger does regular patrols. Do the right thing. NEW & IMPORTANT: The last field in the online booking form has an area for you to fill in a 'Group Name'. The ACAQ asks that you please put "Rockclimbing Group" on the form. This way, the ranger and the EPA will begin to see climbing as a major user group at this site.
MISTAKES? GRIPES? This guide is not definitive (although it's probably very close having been online and continually updated since 2000). If you know something is incorrect, put a post up on qurank.com so we can fix it. Question marks after grades signifies a wild guess. Stars are given out willy nilly by me, mostly on climbs I have done and thought reasonable. No FFA information most likely indicates a Herb route. NEW STUFF FOR 2009 - TOPOS!!
Very popular new area thanks to the combination of prolific bolting and amenable grades. The crag is 400m past Eagles Nest (if Eagle's Nest is the last crag you come to). Drive up the hill and you will see a large black tree stump on your R, park somewhere here. The crag is on the same side as existing crags and is very close to the road. There is a well trodden path. This area is made up of six small buttresses. Take the scree with large fallen tree running all the way down it. Found the Salt 13m 14 BUTTRESS N1 Note: There are U-bolt anchors above the routes to facilitate top-rope setups, as well as lower-off anchors for lead climbers. Ensure you always top-rope through your own equipment, never directly through the anchors. Hand In The Honey Pot 21 BUTTRESS S2 Spider Fingers 15m 20 2m L of Spike, five UBs to DUBB, joins Spike at last bolt, hard start Graham Page, P Box 29/06/08 Spike 15m 18 * Beyond The Black Stump 12m 19 * Spank The Monkey 12m 20 ** Little Wednesday 8m 25 The next two routes use the same bolts. Passage 15m 19 Right of Passage 15m 21 *** Dreamcatcher 15m 20 ** Shake and Bake 14m 24 BUTTRESS S3 And I've chucked this next route in here, because there's no point creating a brand new "crag" with only one route. If you're feeling adventurous you may like to go on a quest to find this unique breadknife feature with a flat top set amongst towering hoop pines. 750m north of Black Stump Buttresses car park spot there is a road branching off in the opposite direction to the cliffs. Park here without blocking road. Forge directly through the scrub away from the road (i.e. west) keeping an eye out for rock cairns. Cross a gully, then up the other side to locate the cliffline. Scout around and scramble down a bit to locate the main spire. Walking time five minutes. * Terracotta Warrior 12m 18 |
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| Hanuman's Hangout |
You can easily walk here from the R end of Black Stump Buttresses (3 minutes), otherwise it's located 200m past Eagles Nest if the Nest is the last crag you come to. Park at the bottom of the slope as you go to start uphill again. Walk uphill 50m, then forge directly L away from the road. When the boulders are tallest, head downhill and will soon find yourself on top of the overhang, 200-250 metres off the road. The scree slope is to the R if facing away from the road. Some old routes exist with carrots at the bottom of the scree; these offer easy generic Brooyar climbing.
Routes listed L to R.
Hanuman’s Eye 12m 21
Now a complete sport route - fully bolted. Fairly hard start, then work out on good holds and heel hooks, clip bolt with chain extender before emerging to crux, gaining the corner. Six UB’s to DUBB.
Graham Page, A Dodson 04/2006
The Animal Within 12m 19
3m R of HE, six UBs to DUBB. Clip second and go straight up. For a grade 23 variant, go out under rooflet, boulder crux, clip lip and keep going up.
Graham Page, A Dodson 02/2007
* Bats In The Belfry 14m 24
Roof traversing which should suit the gym crowd. Eight UB's to DBB lower-off. Long quickdraws recommended to reduce rope drag.
Graham Page, Clint Westbrook 20/12/2008
* Slave To Gravity 12m 24
Start up crack chimney feature on the right of the crag. Six RB's to lower off in centre of roof. Semi sloping campus.
Graham Page, Clint Westbrook 20/12/2008
| Eagle's Nest |
An atmospheric crag with an impressive 40m high main wall which hosts perhaps Brooyar's best climb (although this is a topic for considerable debate!), Looking For The Sun (19). There are some shorter routes for the beginner, and some juggy roof pumps for the more advanced climber. In addition, some steep thin faces should provide enough skin pain for any budding masochist. Eagle's Nest receives shade only in the morning, so get in early. The crag is signposted.
Climbs are listed from R to L.
The first decent thing found as you walk down the hill is a 6m
high, smooth, pockety bouldering wall. On the L of this is a short
slab. L of the slab, scramble easily up the rocky slope to the first
route located on the upper tier.
Lilliputian 6m 14
The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable
boulder problem than a climb.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Giftzwerg 8m 14
15m L of L. Up to L of crack.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Rumpelstilzchen
7m 14
Up the orange streak 2m L of G.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Piccolo 6m 14
Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.
FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
20-30m of
walking L, back down on ground level, past some scrappy, lichenous
black slabs. Note that at this point there is a lower tier of cliff
which is where someone decided to park their car (see picture Climb
magazine issue #4 pg 19). That will be described later. Marvel at
the large, eaten-out white and orange scoop.
** Miss Manners 20m 15
A newie which is already proving popular. Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.
Sam Cujes, Lee Cujes 03/05/2009
* Miss Kandy
Kane 20m 15
The line going directly
up the R arête of the scoop past five RB's to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going
to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off. Brooyar's most ticked route, according to theCrag.com.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 30/12/1999. Rebolted: SCQ 2009 sponsored by Glenn F and Tim R.
* Fatman Scoop 20m 22
Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off. Might be 23? You tell me.
Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes 03/05/2009
The next five routes are L of MKK, so scramble up to the starting ledge.
Tally-Ho The Fox 20m 23
Initialled. Stickclip. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical
flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and
onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre
of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Private Investigation 20m 19
3m L. Stickclip. Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight
up rain drain, BR's. Up onto and through orange wall, BR. The top
half is well protected by lots of slings.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
* Up A Rat In A Drain Pipe 20m 18
Looks intimidating for the grade but in fact, it's great. A steep, fun start off the ledge. Stickclip. Two FHs and five BRs. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended)
or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002
** Free Range Heggs 20m 17
Starts at the very far L end of ledge. Up the orange scoop past FH's,
then wall above. Three FH's and five BR's.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002
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Walk back down to ground level, and circle back to the very lowest section of cliff. It should be obvious as a very chalked, bottomless overhanging prow. Two popular sport routes climb this. Bosnian Broth 7m 23 * Blinky Bill's American Breakfast
8m 23 |
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Above: Adam Donoghue on Bosnian Broth |
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If you continue R from these routes on the lower tier (past the red car), there is some worthwhile boulder problems. From the sport routes, walk back up L to the section of main wall below Private Investigation. * The Girl Who Lives
On Heaven Hill 8m 17 |
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Above: Neil Monteith bouldering R of the Blinky Bill prow |
Digit Crucifixion 10m 18
Starts about 3m L. Very thin wall to horizontal pocket (SLCD). Hard mono
pull to FH and then to good holds. From here it's a jugfest (gear) up to the small tree.
DBB. Walk off.
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*** Looking For The Sun 40m 19 |
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Above: Lee Cujes Looking For The Sun |
The 30m wide section of wall L of LFTS is black, high, juggy and quite easy. A number of easy long routes have been established here, but due to the homogenous nature of the wall, accurate descriptions are a bit difficult. Be careful with any natural gear on these routes.
* Send Me An Angel 40m 17
A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RB's.
Graham Page, Clint Westwood 16/7/09
** The Pioneer
40m 16
Initialled. 5m L of LFTS. 11 RB's. A good introduction to lead
climbing. Consider why standing on the pillar may not be the best idea if your leader falls.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998. Rebolted: SCQ 2009 sponsored by Ben D.
Lichenous Fury 6m 11
Matty enters the world of new routing. A trad route up the boulder below of 2FT.
Matt Schimke, Chester Ryan 20/7/08
The climbing on the next two routes is very similar, except for the finish. You need an assortment of big wires for both.
* 2 For Tea
35m 14
Initialled. 4m L of TP. Five BR's, wires, slings.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998
* Tea For 2 35m 15
4m L. Five BR's, wires, slings.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998
** 2,4,5-T 42m 17
Starts at the tree after the corridor. Six BR's and one FH. Move L
at the beginning of the big V-groove, then straight up. A worthwhile
climb.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 1998
* Little Ray Of Sunshine 45m 17
3m L of 2,4,5-T. 10 RB's (crux around the first, be careful) then easy to final roof. Find the key undercling and climb through roof direct.
Graham Page, D O'Flaherty 7/04
** It's A
Long Way To Tip A Fairy 45m 16
Start at the
end of the corridor 4m past tree. Straight up to BR, then onward, finishing through
centre of bulge. Eight BR's.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002
At a right angle to the Tip a Fairy bollards, you find two short but nice little climbs, one corner crack and one face climb (not named). 3 BR's on the face climb.
Choss And
Chickenheads 45m 16
1m L of detached pillar of rock leaning against the cliff base. Climbs up a pocketed
slab to the stupid first BR at about 6m. Above the BR is most likely
naturally protected and is slightly vegetated in parts. Not too inspiring. Take
slings for pro on chickenheads and beware of the chossy headwall.
Surprisingly, this route does get traffic.
* Chicken Wings
10m 16
4m L of CAC. Five BR's, chain belay.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002
Prima Diva 8m 18
3m L of CW. One FH, two BR's. Chain belay. Not great.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002
Prima Donna 8m 22
2m L of PD. Two FH's, one BR. Looks good but could do with a clean. Presumably a shared chain belay.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2002
As you continue
walking L, roofs start to appear. The next few routes are in the first
little roofed-amphitheatre encountered.
Lithgow Layback
15m 24
Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.
Hayden 10/2004
Dreaming of the Blueys 15m 25
2m L. Initialled. Apparently it does go direct through the roof. Finish as per previous.
Hayden 10/04
Who Is On First! 15m 23
2m L at crackline running through the middle
of the wall below the roof. Climb the crack on natural gear to the
juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above.
Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's
vegetated and needs cleaning.
Herb Brandmeier
* Celluloid Hero 15m 21
There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of
WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof.
Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof
flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver
over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall
above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to
the recently installed rap station.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991. Rebolted: SCQ 2009.
The Skirt 15m 17?
Starts 1m L of CH on the arête. Up arête to thin crack. Follow
the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to ledge. Finish at CH's anchors.
Leave No Turn Unstoned 13m 19
3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Do
it. Good. Now climb the blocky corner on natural gear to beneath the
daunting but surprisingly juggy wall (BR and FH). Climb this overhang
on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out (a chain is needed
here).
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
About 15m L, on the far R-hand side of the next amphitheater is
a fantastic eucalypt growing up against the rock.
* Central to Blackheath 15m 24
The R to L line under the overhang. Six RB's to lower off. Climbs a bit differently than it looks. Good though, especially if it rains!
Graham Page 02/05/2009
* Pantsed 20m 16?
L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheater is this
pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With
its bottomless start, it could be harder.
About 15m L of that crackline is another orange/white amphitheater
which has a bolted route running up the middle of it.
(Woosah 20m - Project)
Long project before "Johnny Gun" up the high white pillar. Stay off until completed. 9 rings.
FA Graham Page 3/05
* Johnny Gun 15m 22
Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BR's),
then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip
the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station. Ask Neil about the name!
Neil Monteith 1997?
15m L of JG, you can scramble up into another little overhanging
enclave where two walls meet. The L is 8m high, orange, pocketed,
and slightly overhung. The R is sandy, very rounded and smooth, and
very overhung. Routes could be done here.
L of here, the rock becomes a bit vegetated in the breaks - walk
about 20m past the enclave, past some blue, lichenous, ledgy rock.
Prospector 20m ??
Shallow orange
corner. BR's. Rap station up high.
Inspector 20m ??
4m L. BR on black gritstone. Up. Shared rap station.
Crimp And Dyno 26 or V5
Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. Boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree.
Hayden 2004
The Big Nothing 7m 11
8m R of the
Let's Bail arete. This is a good beginner route with great gear up
a corner finishing at a tree belay.
Stepping Stone 10m 23
Feeling kinda sporty? The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arête.
Three FH's (the top one is a 45 deg hanger) up a smooth wall leads
to a juggy top.
Albury Carter 1997?
The Dog's Day Off 10m 19
The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.
* Let's Bail 10m 20
The arête 5m L of corner. One move to a BR, then up and swing L around
arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête
lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank. The last route Saul did at Brooyar.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993
Bust A Move 10m 21?
3m L of arête. Marked BAM. Four BR's and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.
Graham Page 3/04
Further to the L the buttresses break down and are probably
only good for bouldering.
| Green Lane |
A beautiful small crag with some of the best rock around.
Recent rebolting efforts have made the routes even better. Drive down
the road about 500m past Eagle's Nest and park in the Point Pure carpark,
but walk back down the road (towards Eagle's Nest) to the "Greene Road Abseiling Points " sign. Don't walk down "Greene Road" though. 10m
R of Greene Road, a small track leads down a gully to the base of
the cliff. Green Lane is shaded in the morning, but no good after rain.
Climbs are listed from R to L.
The descent gully splits the crag in two. The left hand side (looking at the
crag) is much bigger than the right. Let's start around 15m R of the descent
gully:
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DH3 6m 22 Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FH's to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with. The
Dirty Corner 8m 17 Coexisting With
Insanity 8m 21 |
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Above: Neil bouldering on some superb rock just L of DH4. The Dirty Corner is visible behind |
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Thanks For The
Fish 10m 17 2m L. Grade 17 leaders will find the start requires a stern crank. Up wall past a two BR's before trending L to DBB. You might as well finish at the top of the cliff though. Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Keri Green 1993 Green Eggs and Spam 8m 21 * Book Em' Danno 10m 13 Inspiration 8m 16 |
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Above: Philippa Newton leading Book 'Em Danno |
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Now we move over
L of the descent gully. Sweetness And Light 10m 12 |
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Above: Lee attempting the onsight of Uzis On Speed |
| ** Sea Of Fools 15m 22 A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past a BR onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's FH out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with a BR and a FH to the top. Andy Anderson, Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, Dani Geraghty 1993 * Ship Of Tools 15m 22 As for SOF to second BR at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête (BR). Up this exposed arête. Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Andy Anderson 1993 |
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Above: Neil getting a spot while clipping the first bolt on Herb's Hammer |
** Hate Crimes 15m 23
A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT. Power
up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's.
Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight. Lower-off.
Saul Squires 1993
Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell 15m 24
A contrived variant finish
to HC. Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse
2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping
a final FH back L. Finish easily.
Saul Squires 1993
* Herb's And Spices 15m
21
Herb's first new route. A hard start up the R-sloping
arête. Three FH's, BR and final FH.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Mr Medium Man 15m 23
1m L of HAS and just R of
the obvious roof. A very hard start then up passing four BR's.
Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth 1993
Left of MMM is an obvious chalked bouldering wall capped by a small roof with
an incipient thin seam running up it. Good practice for finger locks. Walk 10m left underneath the roofs to get to the next
climb.
No Ethics 15m 23
Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start
of this route have been chipped - not cool). After blank
wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
No Scruples 15m 23
No matter how many good routes you put up, you chip a couple and that's all you're remembered for. These routes deservedly get very little attention.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
* Herb's
In The Fernery 15m 18
Off block onto easy orange slab climbing this past
UB to roof. Up overhung headwall past two UB's to DUBB. Previously the scene of a huge controversy aired on the pages of ROCK magazine.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991. Rebolted: SCQ 2009
* New Day Rising 15m 15
A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS. Pull onto the grey slab with a
grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a three UB's to an awkward
bulge. Finish past a final UB to a chain anchor. Thread and lower.
Dani Geraghty, Saul Squires 1993. Rebolted: SCQ 2009
The End Is Nigh 12m 13
10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three BR's.
Keri Green, Dani Geraghty 1993
Herbal Tea 10m 22
10m L again is a detached pillar with one route
up it. Up past three FH's to chain.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
| Hammerhead Rock |
A new micro crag which may be a useful escape if Black Stump is crowded. Here you'll find a handful of short, well-equipped sport routes with a nice selection of grades, complete with lower-offs (good for beginner to intermediate climbers). To get here, drive to Green Lane, then turn down Greene Road and follow for 200m - the crag is obvious. Park without blocking road. Thirty second walk-in up the hill. The cliff gets afternoon sun. Make sure you jump on Catch Of The Day - it's the pick of the bunch.
Routes are listed from L to R.
Irukandji 7m 15
On the far left of the cliff is a short buttress with a perched block on top. This route climbs this. Two UB's to lower off.
Lee Cujes 08/06/09
Chironex 8m 18
About 4m R on short, steep, scoopy orange wall with good holds. Three UB's to lower off.
Lee Cujes 08/06/09
Hook Line And Sinker 10m 18
15m R at weakness up L side of slab apron. Up past UB to ledge (UB). Clip UB above bulge, then a layback crux pulling through bulge to slab and ledge (two UB's). Shared lower-off.
Chris Gibson 07/06/09
* Becalmed 13m 16
6m R at base of slab apron. Up pockety, low angle gritstone slab past two UB's to base of vertical wall. Up on scoopy holds past a couple of UB's to join previous route at the ledge (sharing final two bolts). Shared lower-off.
John Martin 07/06/09
* Grey Nurse 10m 15
Start in chimney on far R of main wall. Chimney up the notch and pull around L on to face (UB). Traverse L to middle of orange and green wall. Up past four UB's to ledge and shared lower-off.
Alice Fletcher 07/06/09
** Catch Of The Day 10m 20
Start as per previous, but move up and R into leaning orange corner. Up this to roof. Exhilarating moves through this to lower-off right out on the tip. Five UB's. Sure to bring a smile!
Sam Cujes 08/06/09
| Point Pure |
Some good longer routes with a mixture of bolts and
natural protection. From the Eagles Nest carpark drive 500m along
to find an intersection. Take the left road and park in the Point
Pure carpark. From the lookout walk left and down to the base of the
cliff. The classic overhang The Great Devoid is found on the far R
of this crag. As Point Pure features Brooyar's softest rock, beware of choss and keep an eye out for dodgy bolts. If it moves, don't trust it!
Routes are listed from R to L.
The Forgotten Name 12m 16
Forgettable climbing on the access track. Start R of DJA. Four BR's with a slight left trend in the top half.
Tricky start and finish. A RHV is doable by moving R at second BR to break (gear) then
up to BR and top.
Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams 1996
RHV: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osbourne, Ben Carter 05/06/2004
Don Juan's Appendix 12m 12
Starting just R of the obvious
overhang, boulder up to a BR. Climbing diagonally L, move past another
BR and a large wire to the last BR. Trend L over the prow (don't go
through the orchids).
Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth 1993
Over De'void 15m
16
As for DJA to second
BR, then L towards the void to another BR, then straight up
(runout) to a final BR. A fall before the final BR could be
very serious. That said, this route still seems to get plenty
of traffic for some reason.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Dave Whitworth 1993
*** The Great Devoid 15m 22
A testpiece at the grade. Start under roof. Stickclip first
UB, then out very steep overhang on mega spooky but amazingly
solid flakes (past UB's). Push through onto the less-steep,
juggy face to clip-n-lower. Easiest way to clean it is to toprope it.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth 1993. Rebolted: SCQ 2009 sponsored by Charlie.
* Pipeline 15m 24
1m L. Burly climbing straight up the pipe feature (three UBs). Hands on the L flake, feet will find their way R. Join TGD at the lip.
Lee Cujes 20/09/2008
Now, a series of mini-routes...
* Losing Fingers 8m
25
Like pain? It seems the punters do! Very overhung
line of finger-destroying holds 5m L of TGD past three rings
to double rings. Basically, if you're strong, the holds feel fine, if not, get the bandages ready.
Herb Brandmeier
(Project - Chuck)
Bolted line. Keep off until sent.
* Orange Flavoured Hand Grenade 8m 22
Joe's first new route!
Three RBs to glory.
Joe Driver 03/05/2009
(Bar Room Brawl - Phil's Project) 7m ??
4m L of LF past the amazing pockets. Keep off until sent.
Unleash the Swarm 15m 19 Starting on little platform, up into awkward sandy corner past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move. Five UB's. Lee & Sam Cujes, Chris Gibson, Alice Fletcher, JJ O'Brien 8/6/08 ** Reid 15m 19 6m or so L of LF is a corner that goes up and to the R. Three BR's and a #1.5 SLCD. Continually interesting slab climbing. Guy Pearce, Chester * Sinister Exaggerator 15m 22 Starts 3m L of the above climb, and just R of the arête. Four bolts, #2 SLCD placement and some sloperness. Gritty. Always feels hard and for some, impossible. However tempting, the tree is not in. Neil Monteith 1996
DH1 4m 21 DH2 6m 23 |
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Above: Marty Blumen bouldering a project on the lower tier |
Frenchman 15m 18?
Not inspiring. Up middle of the black wall past a BR and a ring.
Catch your breath as you walk down L of the black
wall to find another lighter coloured wall which is big, overhung
and blank. Impressive! There is an upper
and lower tier of this wall. The upper tier has some climbs on it.
The lower tier has bouldering. First the upper tier:
* Pebbles 22m 25
Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RB's to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.
Craig Pohlman, Andrew Audsley 24/12/04
* Reverse Psychology 15m
27
Walk along ledge to access. Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness (RB) to break. Crack takes #3 camalot and/or your biggest wire. Final sandy crack past last RB leads to rap station.
Lee Cujes 8/6/08
* The Missing Link 8m 21
A spicy little entree, linking into The Great Barrier Reef. Starts on the furthest
protruding part of the ledge (walk along to DUBB on ledge). Rebolted in 2004(?), this route has one ringbolt, and three FH's.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Above and to the L of the finish of that climb is a DUBB that is reached via abseil, and is the starting point for the following route. To get there, rap down the R-side (facing out) of the prow off the big rings.
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*** The Great Barrier
Reef 18m 13
FA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991 |
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Above: Lee races up the headwall of The Great Barrier Reef while Neil nervously watches the approaching thunderstorm |
** The Cornflake Climb 25m 18
Starts to the L of the main overhangs below an overhanging block
at the top. Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You
can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who
would want to do it the easy way? The third bolt, hidden in a big
pocket, is visible from the ledge.
** Coco Pops 25m 15
2m L of TCC, marked CCP. Seven BR's. More user friendly than TCC, with a tough little roof move which is often a "first real heelhook, wow!" move for the leader. Fairly runout and airy for the grade.
MD 25m 14
Initialled. 5m L of the previous route at the very old paint initials
- you may not be able to see them. A rather unprepossessing route
about 5m R of ICSJ. Up the wall with somewhat sparse pro to a juggy
crack at about 10m. The route does see a bit of traffic, but watch the rock quality - not ideal for trad gear.
Cold Fusion 25m 17
2m R of ICSJ. Six BR's. Move R after 5th bolt into right-hand crack.
Not so good.
Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright 1991
Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad RHV 18?
As for ICSJ to ledge. Up and R on wires to BR below converging cracks.
Up past another two BRs.
Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad 25m 16
Initialled. Start just right of stump, then climb past two BRs to ledge.
Up and left on wires and cams to BR at start of left-leaning crack.
Straight up past another BR. An interesting headwall puts some spice into otherwise generic vertical Brooyar climbing.
Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty 1993
The next two "routes" are inside the chimney between the lookout and the main cliff. These routes tend to be very dirty and are reserved for masochists only.
The Back of the Chimney 8m 8?
The back of the obvious chimney at the big tree. Rap down. Start below
and top-out in the gap between the boulders at the back of the chimney.
The Middle of the Chimney 8m 8?
Start below and top-out in the last gap between the boulders before
the front of the chimney.
Sensible climbing resumes on the L of the chimney on the face beneath the lookout.
The Jamb Crack 15m 20
The next wall round to the L of the black juggy wall has an obvious
hand / fist crack in it up high.
Big Mouth Short Crack
15m 22
Start 2m L of TJC. Mantle up to a BR in orange enclave. Traverse
L and mantle out onto wall (wire). Either climb out L onto face trying
to find the BR's amongst the forest of lichen, or trend up the natural
line (gear) until you step L (BR) and reach the overhung, bolted corner
(two big FHs). Up this with some difficulty to finish at the lookout.
Overhanging Corner 15m 21
Your imaginative route-naming dollars at work. Start 6m L of
BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder. Up the slab
(BR) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above. Up
the lichenous face (BR's) to arrive at the headwall 1m L of the bolted
corner. Up this (FH) to finish at the lookout.
Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers 2003
** Your Hovercraft
Is Full Of Potatoes 15m 20
L again is this really nice arête with about five BR's or so.
It has a well protected but awkward flaky roof move (crux) at the
start and then up the juggy bolted arête. To get to the start walk
around L and then up to the start platform.
Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth 1993
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| Above: Sequence of Lee onsighting Your Hovercraft Is Full Of Potatoes | ||
* Suddenly Sober 10m 14
3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux).
Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires.
Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out.
Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne, Ben Carter 05/06/2004
I'm Not Lichen It 10m 16
Up the obvious corner 5m R of Sunny Day. Not that bad, says Gareth.
Gareth Llewellin, John Taylor 15/04/2006
Now you've got to walk up a little gully to find
an overhanging manky-looking arête.
Sunny Day 9m 21
Initialled. A homemade hanger that'll set your teeth on edge,
followed by rusty BR's up a highly vegetated face. You wouldn't do
this route for money. Rap chain at top.
Rainy Day 9m 18
Initialled. 1.5m L of SD. Massive flakes to BR, then a homemade
rusty FH, then up. Rap chain at top.The rock looks okay, but supposedly
the big flake on one of these climbs creaks when you grab it. Sounds
fun.
No More Gaps 9m 17
Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams 03/1999
| The Wolf's Lair |
A further 1.1km down the road from Point Pure is The Wolf's Lair. The rock is pretty good and all the bolts are glue-in's. Park where a small dirt road branches off on the L side of the road and walk across the road and down to the cliff. There is basically no track, so you'll have to search around a bit - look for the top of the cliff! Walk down the left side (looking out).
Routes are listed from R to L.
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* Predator 13m 24 ** Awesome Wells
15m 21 Sand In My Pants 15m 17 Sheep Clothing 13m 21 |
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Above: Neil on the first ascent of Predator |
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Above: Lee nailing the last move on Awesome Wells |
Suitboy 13m 21
Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arête. Clip FH and
climb up and L to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above
to chain.
Neil Monteith, Dan Meyers 27/10/97
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* Carnivore 9m 28 * Bio Logic 12m 13
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Above: Philippa seconding Bio Logic |
* The Big Bad
Wolf 15m 23
The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip and finish on the ledge. Rap.
Chris Coghill 15/7/2000
Good bouldering is found on the three metre high wall below Carnivore. No established problems have been recorded as most are around V0.
| Gymp Crag |
The Gymp Crag can be found between Wolf's Lair and the Rain Cave, and the parking spot is 1.42km from Point Pure. Park, and forge directly away from the road. If you find yourself on top of some rock, head downhill (scattered boulders) and around R passing a pocketed wall.
Routes listed R to L
The Gymp Is Sleeping 15m 21
Climbs the line above the lip of the roof with FH's. Starts serene with the traverse in from the right, then gets rowdy and tries to buck you off.
Neil Monteith 1997
The Gymp Was Disturbed 15m 23
Up the orange face, through roof to lip (but resist the urge to mantle it!). Traverse the lip the entire way, joining TGIS at its anchor (hidden from view). Seven RB's to lower off.
Graham Page, James Colwill 04/2009
The Gymp Was a Boy From The Bluies 10m 21
Starts on L arete of the crag and goes up then out R to shared station. Five RB's to chain.
Graham Page, Clint Westwood 15/7/09
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| Above: Sequence of Neil on The Gymp Is Sleeping, and on the far R, Marty Blumen bouldering | |||
| The Rain Cave |
This small area is 1.5km from Point Pure and is partly visible from the road off to the R. Park off the road before the yellow "S - curves" road sign and walk up R toward the rocky outcrop. Walk down around this to encounter a large roof with solid huecos and fins. Superb roof bouldering with great landings are to be found here, even when it's pouring rain, which is the area's main drawcard. None of the following problems use the bottom ledge. Saul says: "I don't want to steal anyone's thunder, but the problems described sound remarkably like those done by me and Andy Anderson in 1993". I say, whatever, it's all good!
Problems listed from L to R. These are really just examples. Go forth and do your own as well.
Come And Get Me 4m V2
The line of huecos in the roof, perpendicular to the lip, starting as far in as possible on an undercling pocket. Work straight out the pockets to where it blanks, then throw up R and move up to the top flake, then (as for TJNNFT) out this to the jug 1m before the lip.
Erik Smits 29/12/99
Just Keep Hanging On 6m V3
A pumpy endurance number. The smooth flake starting on the very far L and traversing R (remember, no bottom ledge). At the end, drop down to the next flake, then a long move past blankness (crux) and continue to finish on little prow.
There's Just No Need For That 3m V0
A good warm up. From the middle of the smooth flake, go up and out towards lip on the line of jugs. Finish at the jug 1m before the lip.
Erik Smits 29/12/99
I wonder if Saul ever did this megaclassic...
Zilch V1
A zero move problem! In the middle of the smooth flake are two very sloping hand-sized pocket-slots. Chalk like mad then hang for 5 seconds feet-free to get the tick! Pure sloper power only - pinching of any kind is not allowed. How long can you hang?
Lee Cujes 29/12/99
There's also the mega traverse from L to R, plus there are various up problems if you keep walking R.
