A note on grading
The grading of routes on Mt Tibrogargan varies greatly. Many of the early routes (pre 1980) tend to be mighty harsh for the grade. The shorter modern routes are graded more accurately. This guide has upgraded many of the early routes in an attempt to remedy this. However, it is recommended that all climbers unfamiliar to Tibro multipitches climb some easier routes (grade < 10) before progressing to the harder ones.

How to get to the carpark
Travelling north, after taking the Glasshouse Mountains Tourist Route off the Bruce Highway, drive for 6.5 km to a L turn marked 'Forestry Nursery' (before reaching the turn-off for the Glasshouse Township). Take it. Drive L under the railway bridge, then up R and along the dirt track past the nursery on your R, then take the signposted L-turn towards the mountain (sandy dirt track). You'll pass two more brown and yellow National Park signs saying ‘Mt Tibrogargan’ before reaching a carpark on the L (1.3km from the main road turnoff).

How to get to the rock
There are several access options depending on which sector you wish to climb at.

• Slider access
From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 150m or so until it forks. Take the L branch and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. After a second much smaller rock paving, look for a small cairned foot track running R up towards the mountain. Take this and follow it for eight minutes up to the bottom of Lower Slider Wall.

• Celestial Wall access
From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 150m or so until it forks. Take the L branch and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at Heliosphere on Celestial Wall.

• Carborundum Wall access
Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 150m or so until it forks. Take the R branch and follow this for about five minutes until it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face. Five more minutes will see you at the rock. The track meets the rock between Carborundum Chimney and Patience Crack.

The next routes are located on the walls of the South Face Route gully. The best way to access this area is directly from the E-face carpark. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. After a second much smaller rock paving, look for a small cairned foot track running R up towards the mountain. Take this and follow it for eight minutes up to the bottom of Lower Slider Wall. Most routes are sport climbs and all have lower-offs. It's a great shady place to hang out on a hot summer afternoon.

Lower Slider Wall

*The Fires of Jealousy 25m 10 Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. Up passing two FH's (opt. trad in between) then go L and up another three FH's. Trad gear and another two FH's to anchor. Pleasant climbing up good rock. Gareth Llewellin 23/12/2004	*Blowing Bubbles 15m 17 Start: At base of gully below rounded arête. Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM). Scott Lawrence, Gary Meyrick 19/12/1999	You Win Some You Lose Some 15m 27 Four FH's and some finger-shredding pain. Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible. Russell Bright, Peta Barrett 15/06/2007	*Monkey Magic 10m 23 Start: 5m R. Thin crimping up the steep, pock-marked face with four FH’s. Step L to anchor (shared with BB). Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick 06/1999
*Magictrip 16m 23 A link-up. Start up Monkey Magic for its first three FH then keep crimping up and R to FH and then finish up Tripitaka. Seven or eight FH's. Ross Ferguson 21/01/2007

The next three climbs start off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

*Tripitaka 14m 23 More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P). Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 05/11/2004	*Pigsy 12m 21 Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts. R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal 31/10/2004	Something About Sandy 12m 19 Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. Five FH's to anchor. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 31/10/2004	*The Minx And The Slug 12m 23 Start: at Something About Sandy. Reversy-traversy. Clip its first FH with a extra long runner then step down and crimp your way L across Pigsy, Tripitaka and Monkey Magic following the line of near horizontal bolts to finish at the Blowing Bubbles' chains. Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn 21/01/2007
The Horse 12m 16 OK climbing past one FH, medium cam, small wire then head L clipping the last two bolts of SOS. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 05/11/2004	**Such A Nice Monster 15m 15 Start: A further 10m up the gully. Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM. G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson 28/11/2004	Monster Master 20m 24 A link-up. Start up SANM to third FH then climb R across TMMM into EMCBP and finish up last two FH's of TVM. Quite sustained crimping. Ross Ferguson, Bill Strachan 13/04/2007	*The Most Monstrous Monster 13m 21 ..of a jug! Escapable to the L in one spot, but still quite good. Same anchor as SANM. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 27/11/2004
*Even Monsters Can Be People 14m 24 The line of seven silver FH's up a R-tending face. One reachy move provides the difficulty, so subtract a grade if you're 6ft, or add a grade if you're under 5'8". Chains as for TVM. Ross Ferguson 10/12/2005	**The Vampire Master 10m 24 Start: R of TMMM. Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds. Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin 30/04/2005	A Shadow So Huge 10m 21 Start: Left of Outrageous Coincidences. Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain. Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn 21/01/2007	*Outrageous Coincidences 8m 22 Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully (head out R to fixed rope if you want to get to Upper Slider). One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 27/11/2004

Upper Slider Wall
Scramble carefully further up the gully (utilising some fixed rope along the way) until you hit the next routes on the obvious overhung L wall. To make the descent down the gully safer (particularly in the wet), the boys have installed a rap station in the scrub 10m L of Procrastinator (doubled 50m ropes required to get all the way to the bottom of the gully).

Check out the Upper Slider Wall Topo.

Procrastinator 17m 22 The L-most route on Upper Slider wall. A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 22/12/2004	*Procrastislider 18m 22 A link-up combining the best of both routes. Up Procrastinator for two bolts, then up the Arapiles rock past a FH to join Slider at the ledge. Finish as for Slider. Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson 31/08/2007	*Procrastihowler 20m 24 A link-up. Bolts one and two (long) of Procrastinator, bolts two and three of Slider, bolts three (long), four and five of Squealer, bolt four of Madder, finishing up bolts three, four and five of Howler. A good endurance pumper - don't run out of quickdraws! Lee Cujes 12/03/2005	*Procrastiwailer 23m 26 A big diagonal link-up. Bolts one and two (long) of Procrastinator, bolts two and three of Slider, bolts three (long), four and five of Squealer, bolt four of Madder, bolt three of Howler, finishing up bolts four and five of Wailer. Lee Cujes 16/04/2005
**The Forty Metre Mile 40m 28 20 clip super link-up. As for Procrastwailer into Hybrid Vigour, traversing R to Overseer at the SLCD. Need 20+ quickdraws (many extended). A 60m rope will just get you down on stretch. Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes 04/02/2006	**Slider 16m 22 Start: 3m R of Procrastinator (before rock slab starts rising R-wards). Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue 28/11/2004	Swinger 19m 18 Start: Below Squealer with some cams in a horizontal. A link-up. Clip Squealer's first two bolts (use long sling on second), traverse L clipping the fourth bolt on Slider and pull onto ledge. Trav L further, then up clipping the fifth and sixth bolts on Procrastinator to its anchor. There is also a small wire before the fifth bolt on Procrastinator if you really want. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 26/02/2005	***Squealer 16m 23 Start: From the first raised platform. A direct start added to the great original finish of Squealer makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler). Gareth Llewellin, Lee Cujes 16/01/2000. Gareth added DS 26/02/2005
***Madder 15m 25 Start: Just R of Squealer. Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses. Gareth Llewellin 12/03/2005	***Howler 16m 24 Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth’s done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously. Gareth Llewellin 12/12/1999	*Wailer 16m 25 Start up Howler heading R after the first bolt. Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the Howler ledge (shares H's anchor). Wowler is a variant which heads L after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 26/06/2004	**Hybrid Vigour 24m 27 What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25? Up Wailer til its last bolt but then traverse R for 3m into the business end of The Final Piece, finishing up this. If you step R into DP and finish up this, you have Pinocchio's Extension (27). Gareth Llewellin 20/05/2005
*The Final Piece 17m 25 Start: At the big corner R of Wailer. Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position! Gareth Llewellin 04/04/2005	*Doctor Pinocchio 20m 24 Start: Up TFP until it is obvious to move R and onto RH line of bolts. Optional #1- #1.5 friend at the top. Use TFP anchor. Russel Bright, Ross Ferguson 11/06/2008	*Overseer 30m 21 Start: At the big corner R of Wailer. Long and pumpy climbing with great views. Two bolts up the corner (yuk) to ledge. Don't climb straight up (25!), instead, walk 4m R up the ledge and clip first bolt from big holds. Follow the line of bolts up a steepening wall with a few incred-o-buckets along the way. About 10 quickdraws and a 60m rope are needed. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 04/04/2005

Slider Buttress
Back on ground level, this buttress opposite the start of Lower Slider Wall contains three routes which all go to the same anchor.

What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman 8m 22 Start: 5m L of the tree. Ridiculously short but good. Three bolts. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 20/11/2004

Monkey Swallows The Universe 15m 14 Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 20/11/2004

Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven 20m 12 Start: 5m down R of MSTU. Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain. Gareth Llewellin 23/12/2004

Not part of Slider proper, access the following two routes by walking 50m right along the base of the cliffs at the bottom of Slider.

Brannigan's Law 15m 21 Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off. Ryan Castel 2005

Robot Devil 15m 19 Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top. Ryan Castel 2005

A handful of routes perched very high up on the SE face on a rippled, orange wall. From Halfway House, bush-bash left and up (10 mins) until you hit the wall.

Floater 20m 21 Furthest L bolted route on the wall. Some scary rock past the second FH (needs some more cleaning), then the climbing steepens and improves. Seven FH's and a medium wire. Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara 24/12/2006	Prairie Doggin 12m 23 Start: A few metres R, underneath the broken arete. Pretty good moves through the bulge but still needs a good clean. Four FH's to lower-off. Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel 20/01/2007	(Project) 12m - FH's and fixed wires. Lower-off.	*Dumptruck 12m 24 Six FH's through obvious steep bulge in centre of wall to low anchors. Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara 31/12/2006
*Ripple 23m 22 Start: The R-most line on the good-looking wall. Quite a good route. An optional blue alien may calm the nerves clipping the first bolt. Up the slab through a couple of increasingly tricky bulges. Seven FH's. Marcus O'Mara, Phil Box 14/01/2007	Rattle 25m 18 Start: 5m down R, at the very easy-looking slabs. Spot a high first FH. Follow the FH's up the slab. Lower-off. Marcus O'Mara, Craig Pohlman 07/01/2007

Blessed with afternoon shade, Celestial Wall offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It’s possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you’ll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!
 
From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at Heliosphere on Celestial Wall.

Check out the Celestial & Clemency Wall Topo.

*Troposphere 115m 18 Start: About 60m L of Heliosphere at the first section of unvegetated rock. Climb trends to the R with a significant traverse to the R behind a spiky bushed ledge at pitch 4. All pro is FH's. Take some long draws and slings to help reduce rope drag over the overlaps. 1) 30m (15) Up easy-angled slab to overlapping set of steps which grow steadily steeper the higher you go. 2) 15m (17) Can be combined with p3 easily. 3) 15m (18) Wonderful corner system. 4) 25m (15) Directly up the broken blocks from the belay and then trend R up to the spiky bush belay ledge. Chain and ring for belay. 5) 30m (16) Continue across ledge and around the front of the large Gendarme and climb up the corner behind to clipping stance atop the Gendarme. Step across the void and up to join the top section of Voyager. Two FH's for belay. To descend, you may continue to the Halfway House Terrace and rap down Clemency, (possible with one 60m rope), or simply rap back down Troposphere. Phil Box (rope solo) 13/01/2007	C Section 25m 18 Start: At the top of pitch one of Troposphere. Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of Troposphere. Route describes a big arc, hence the name. Phil Box, J.J. O'Brien 19/03/2007	Rescision 15m 19 Start: At the belay at top of pitch 2 Troposphere. Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join C Section. A couple of spicy moves then backs off completely. Has been described as 'a waste of hangers'. Phil Box 03/02/2007	Heliosphere 35m 14 Start: About 25m L of Aphelion’s first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square. Up the slab passing about ten FH’s to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!). Phil Box 28/11/2004
*Zenith 25m 23 Start: At the top of Heliosphere, but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station. Steeply up orange rock past four FH’s to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH’s before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit. Rap. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 28/11/2004	Vernal Equinox 30m 22 Start: At the top of Heliosphere. The line of 11 FH’s directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off. Phil Box, Lee Cujes 18/12/2004	**Latitudes 35m 22 Start: At the top of Heliosphere. From the station, climb up and R following the bolted line (11 FH’s). Airy, exposed and bit pumpy. At final bolt (rooflet), step L one move, then finish back R at Voyager’s p3 rap station. A mega pitch which deserves more attention. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 27/11/2004	*Voyager 100m 23 1) 35m (16) First pitch as for Aphelion. 2) 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful. 3) 18m (crux) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it's a tricky little bouldering sequence. 4) 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse. Walk up and then R to Halfway House terrace, or descend rope traverse to top of Aphelion and rap with two 60 metre ropes. All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten. Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box 14/11/2004
***Aphelion 87m 22 Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall, at the small rock cairn. Marked 'A'. Great climbing in a superb position. 1) 35m (16) At rock cairn climb straight up until first FH becomes visible. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. 2) 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on big choss ledge. 3) 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of Celestial Wall. 4) 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto Halfway House terrace. Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box 16/07/2004	**Rubicon 85m 22 Start: 10m L, below first FH. Marked 'R'. 1) 45m (18) 12 FH’s. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R. 2) 30m (22) Nine FH’s lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of Celestial Wall. Finish at rap station as for p3 of Aphelion. Rap off here, or.. 3) 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of Aphelion onto Halfway House ledge. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 18/12/2004

Access as for Celestial Wall sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at Heliosphere on Celestial Wall. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to Clemency Wall.

Check out the Celestial & Clemency Wall Topo.

*Clemency 192m 16 Start: 10m R of Rubicon on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'. Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee). A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. 1) 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear. 2) 30m (crux) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground). 3) 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on Clemency Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp. 4) 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance. 5) 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode. 6) 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track. FA Les Wood, Donn Groom 19/04/1966. FFA Unknown.	*Sent From Above 12m 23 Start: On the flat vegetated ledge 5m L of the rap rings at the base of Clemency's third pitch corner. Access from there, or rap in from Halfway House. To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m L of the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m. Setting a trad anchor is possible on the ledge. Four FH's with one bouldery section to rap station. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb out (trad) on the next route. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 07/10/2006	Apricots 28m 16 Start: At the bolted belay anchor above the previous route. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice fingercrack. Climb this for about 10m then move R into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House terrace. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 07/10/2006	The Mace 18m 22 Start: 9m R of Clemency. Marked 'M'. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation. Phil Box, Lee Cujes 22/12/2002
**Alienation 18m 20 Start: 2m R. Marked 'A'. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCDs are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 22/12/2002	**Divergence 20m 19 Start: 4m R directly beneath the landmark bright orange corner 60m up (Caritas climbs this). Marked 'D'. Classy and engaging. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this, then slab up to bulge and a heady little move getting to the FH. Steep corner (tiny wires) through bulge to ledge and rap station. Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn 26/10/2002	**The Twisticle Connection 73m 22 Use this three route combination as a great way to access the Halfway House or as a classic undertaking in its own right. Take one set of SLCD's up to at least #2 and one set of wires. 1) 20m (19) Climb Divergence, then choose one of the following two options. 2a) 35m (17) aka Tested Twisticle (left). Step left to small layback flake and up passing 2 FH’s. From the second, head up diagonally right to right-leaning hand rail. Follow this to small ledge (‘TT right’ joins in here from the right.) Straight up (FH) to another ledge from which you can see the anchor below the obvious orange corner of Caritas. Head towards this through steeper terrain and a FH. Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin 29/10/2005 2b) 35m (18) aka Tested Twisticle (right). From the station follow the right leaning shallow diagonal corner. When this ends, swing up left a few moves (passing a FH) to a small ledge. (‘TT left’ joins in here from the left.) Straight up (FH) to another ledge from which you can see the anchor below the obvious orange corner of Caritas. Head towards this through steeper terrain and a FH. Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter 29/10/05 3) 18m (crux) Climb Caritas. Either rap to ground from here (2x50m or 1x60m rope) or continue up to the Halfway House terrace.	**The Simon Vos Memorial 18m 27 Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really. Up Caritas for two bolts, then step L onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful sidepulling to ledge. Rejoin Caritas to finish. Pre-place a long quickdraw on the first bolt on the bulge. Remains unrepeated - get to it! Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders 14/10/2006
***Caritas 18m 22 This is the landmark orange corner just R of Clemency’s third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. The easiest access is to either climb up to it via The Twisticle Connection, or rap in from the main rap tree on Halfway House down onto the ledge with rap station beneath base of corner (leave rap rope in place). Superb climbing. A short wall, then the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above. Seven FH’s. Either lower from the rap station, or belay up your second then scramble (roped) up onto Halfway House. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 18/12/2004

The next four routes start on the apex of the track.

*Guenevere 90m 17 Start: 2m R of Divergence. Marked 'G'. A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers. 1) 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height. 2) 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove. 3) 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency. Lee Cujes, Phil Box, Samantha Coles 16/02/2003

*Lancelot 90m 15 Start: 6m R. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next. 1) 20m Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far L of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better). 2) 30m Walk all the way back to the R end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and R aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip PR before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB. 3) 25m Climb up onto block on far R of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby R-facing corner. Clip PR and traverse R under blocks to another PR. Climb straight up the wall above (more like grade 18 moves?) with scant protection to slab. Up and R to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and PR belay. 4) 15m Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (L-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m L on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought. Ken Grimes, Peter Kennedy, Eric Hewett 02/05/1966

*Dreadnought 375m 16 Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked 'D'. Take wires, RP’s and SLCD’s to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit. 1) 50m Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge. 2) 20m Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R. 3) 10m Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional). 4) 40m Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay. 5) 35m Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay. 6) 20m Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner. 7) 50m Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch. 8) 30m Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay. 9) 30m Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace. 10) 20m (crux) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance. 11) 40m Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB. 12) 30m Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit Ted Cais, Mike Meadows 16/05/1970

Dreadnought VF 75m 18 1) 55m (crux) Starts at the base of Dreadnaught’s eighth pitch, where it climbs L into the groove. Don’t! Instead, veer R and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green alien, #3 peenut). Hard layaway rockover to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes med SLCD’s. Moderately up good slab to a PR in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large SLCD’s). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (PR, SLCD, wires). 2) 20m (10) Veer L up slab to join original Darrin Carter, Mark Poole 12/08/2000

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on Clemency Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of Clemency or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or Aphelion (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency’s third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.
 

Check out the Halfway House Topo.

Cunningly Deceptive 13m 21 Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Now with bolts! Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall. Phil Box, Lee Cujes 30/03/2003	Rocketsauce 12m 19 Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner. Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish. Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel 20/01/2007	*Tenacious D 12m 19 Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner. Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for Halfway House. Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel 13/01/2007	The Court Jester 35m 17 Start: 4m L of the landmark roof is a R-trending blocky weakness. 1) 15m (14) Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23). 2) 20m (17) Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace. Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn 02/03/2003
Emu-less 12m 22 Start: About 6m R, just R of the landmark roof. Boulder up over the roof, then step L up past two FH’s on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (green alien on L) then up (thin gear) to Jester’s rap station on ledge. FA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly 22/06/2003 FFA Cameron Fairbairn 07/2003	Gut Punch The Budda 12m 23 Start: At the landmark roof, as for Emu-less. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester’s rap station on ledge. Not the best route, but gets heaps of traffic for some reason! Lee Cujes, Phil Box 30/03/2003	**Maponus 37m 23 Start: 3m R of Gut Punch The Budda. The first pitch draws the stars. 1) 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester’s rap station). 2) 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground. Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box 02/03/2003	The Sword In The Stone 25m 18 Start: At Jester’s rap station atop pitch one of Maponus. Head L into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 23 section of Maponus). Up for 4m and finish up slab as for pitch two of Maponus. Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn 02/03/2003
**Dagda 25m 25 Excellent climbing. Climb Maponus’ first pitch (trad) then step R and directly up past three FH’s to station. 25m rap to ledge. Short, but quite technical. Featured on the cover of ROCK magazine. Cameron Fairbairn 22/06/2003	**Voluptuous 11m 24 Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - should prove more popular now with five. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 29/03/2003	***The Elite Republican Guard 15m 24 Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station. Phil Box, Lee Cujes, James Pfrunder 04/05/2003	I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me 30m 22 Start: Use the fixed rope to make your way along the choss ledge to the second belay bolt (beneath orange corner). Up the leaning corner with a few streno moves, then easier face climbing above. If you're not feeling confident, stickclip the second bolt. Pat Daly 2004
*Switch Blade Honey 30m 25 Start: Just to the R of Pat's route. Joins Pat's route after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Cameron Fairbairn 16/07/2005

The next routes are NOT accessed by the fixed rope. From the end of the vegetated ledge, you must downclimb onto the slab below and carefully move along this to its end. A few bolts exist for protection. Belay off the first bolt of Black Op's and optional red alien.

**Pigs In Space 30m 26 Start: About 5m R, on dangerous ledge. Thin moves off starting ledge (be careful) and then thug your way up square cut edges to a pumpy crux traversing R and up to ledge. Continue more easily up prow to anchors on a small ledge in a corner. 8 or 9 bolts. Cameron Fairbairn 07/2003	**DV8 30m 27 DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 8 bolts. Also finishes same as for SW. Cameron Fairbairn 26/11/2003	**Black Op's 30m 24 Start: Up past a few FH’s into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH’s to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH’s, then the anchor is up R (same as SW). Cameron Fairbairn 07/2003	Storm Watch 30m 24 Start: Beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap. Cameron Fairbairn 07/2003
Spooky House 30m 17 Start: As for pitch seven of Drednaught, at the far R of the Halfway House ledge at the huge L-facing corner. Climb D’s corner until it runs out. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW’s anchors. Bad gear in second half with some friable rock. Cameron Fairbairn 09/07/2003

Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the R branch (signposted East Face rock climbers access 600m) and follow this for 400m where it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face (200m uphill). The track meets the rock between Carborundum Chimney and Patience Crack.
 

Routes in this sector listed R to L.

Faith 105m 12 Start: Diagonally up and to the L of the start of the Caves Route at a small, flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs. Marked 'F'. This is a hard grade 12 - exposed and poorly protected. 1) 32m Diagonally upwards to the R across the sloping ribs and then up and onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the L on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to small tree runner. Continue up the wall and then out to R onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the L. Steelwood TB at L-hand edge of shelf. 2) 18m Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the L-hand wall. Straight up to a small stance. 3) 13m From stance, climb straight up small wall to L of crack and then ascend diagonally L over small rib. A traverse leads to the L over a series of sloping ledges for 10m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face. Belay. 4) 18m Straight up the wall above for 5m, and then a delicate traverse to the L leads to the wide crevice in the corner. Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall. 5) 23m Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge to the start of a rubbishy gully. Up through the gully, or out onto the L-hand bounding rib (much cleaner) to large TB. From here, the exit of Carborundum Chimney is joined and scrambling to the R leads eventually to the Caves Route. Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb, Julie Henry 21/05/1955

*Every Day I Start To Ooze 18m 21 Start: 2m R of Liquid Skin and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Head up easy slab (small cams) to underneath overlap next to some vegetation. Reach up and clip first of three FH's. After the third, go up then veer L to join LS at its final FH. Continue up this to anchor. Sections of this and the next route tend to seep well after it has rained. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led) 29/04/2006

*Liquid Skin 18m 23 Start: 3m right of Patience Crack Up slab (FH) to L side of a block under overlap (small wire or cams in horizontal). Continue past four more FH's trending R-wards to anchor. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 29/04/2006

**Patience Crack 85m 15 Start: 8m R of Carborundum Chimney at a big tree. This is a great, well-protected route. 1) 40m (crux). Up nice crack to top of white rock. From here, there are two options. 1. Trend L and up to ledge then continue up and R for 18m to base of crack. 2. Continue directly up through the half-chimney. 2) 24m Follow the obvious crack straight up, by layback, bridging and wall climbing. Gain stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree. 3) 22m Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge and TB. Up easy rock and some scree, then out R to join the Caves Route. Les Wood, Donn Groom, Woody Milroy 21/06/1966

The east face track meets the rock at this point.

*Carborundum Chimney 92m 11 Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'. A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings! 1) 35m Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Poor belay. 2) 25m Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'. 3) 17m (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge. 4) 15m Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge, escape off to the R along scrubby ledge to connect with the Caves Route above Cave 2. Alternately, it is possible to go L-wards up the V-gully and follow terraces up to the summit. Neill Lamb, Mark Andrews 1955	*Remains Of The Day 136m 16 Start: 3m L of CC. 1) 20m (15) Small SLCD protects the start then balancy climbing up wall on good rock passing seven or eight FH’s to rap station. 2) 28m (15) Step off R and down to ledge as for CC first pitch. Cross ledge and climb easy wall to high FH. Follow the FH’s with good, fun climbing through some drummy rock to rap station below steep wall. 3) 28m (16) It’s all systems go straight off the belay up the steep wall passing several FH’s but it soon eases to a naturally protected crack and short chimney. On to spooky tree-covered ledge and rap station. 4) 30m (16) Easily up to the L of the belay to high FH but keeping R of arête to stance below steep wall. Crank your way up on good edges passing several FH’s to rap station. 5) 30m (13) Good vertical face climbing on natural pro up the intermittent crack to a slabby finish passing three or four FH’s to rap station. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Bill Strachan 03/2007	First Contact 20m 20 Start: 15m L of Carborundum Chimney. Burly and exciting. Up blocky slab to base of overhung wall. Clip FH and pull into the crux. Jug upwards passing another FH until it eases. Up more easily (wire, big hex) to chains. Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith 17/07/1999	*Insurrection 25m 18 Start: About 5m L of First Contact beneath crack. Waltz up easy slab to base of L-leaning crack. Pull into this and enjoy white Arapilesean rock for 5m before breaking off R and up to first of three black FH’s. Continue up steep face passing two more FH’s to chains. Lee Cujes, Menno Smits 21/04/1999
**Insurrection VS 28m 21 Start: Downhill, 5m L of original. An excellent variant, adding 8m of quality climbing. Stickclip first FH and pull onto bottomless wall. Push straight up, then traverse R below bulge to second FH. Directly through bulge to meet original at crack at top of white rock. Continue up original. Lee Cujes 21/04/1999	*Nine Month Sojourn 25m 20 Start: 8m L of Insurrection VS at blocky orange corner. Quite demanding. Strenuously up passing SLCD slots, then slightly R to jugs. Up wall above (wires) tending L to meet LOAJP at the rooflet. Continue up LOAJP. Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes 16/07/1999	**Leaving On A Jet Plane 25m 20 Start: 2m L of Nine Month Sojourn An outstanding R-tending line located on the far L of the wall. Stickclip first of five FH’s and pull onto bottomless wall. Crank natural campus rungs (FH, wire) up superb stone to rooflet (FH). Find a way R-wards up steepening wall past two FH’s to chains. Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes 16/07/1999	Steaming 60m 16 Start: In vague gully 15m L of Leaving On A Jet Plane, below slab with low red roofs on the R. The belay ledge at the top of this pitch has a tree sticking out horizontally. Climbed accidentally, thinking that it was the start of Clemency! On the first ascent, Neil used all the rope and soloed the final 8m, leaving Simon to solo the first 8m to tie in. Simon quit climbing soon after! Advice: use a 60m rope. Good advice: avoid this route entirely. Up the slab to the vertical wall, trend up and to the R below loose roofs then climb straight up aiming for the belay ledge with tree. It is safer if you keep slightly to the R of the ledge as the top half below the ledge is quite loose. Protection is very sparse - four pieces were placed on first ascent. Neil Monteith, Simon Hennig 12/1994
**Airtime Over Pumicestone 245m 21 Start: About 4m L of Steaming at big tree next to rock apron. Take wires and SLCDs to #3, with a strong emphasis on small SLCDs such as aliens. 1) 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station. 2) 30m (18) Take lots of small SLCDs. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch. 3) 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L. 4) 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station. 5) 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall. 6) 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station. Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route. Lee Cujes (1, 2, 4), Phil Box (3, 6) 15/02/2003

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector. Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the R branch (signposted East Face rock climbers access 600m) and follow this for 400m where it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face (200m uphill). The track meets the rock between Carborundum Chimney and Patience Crack. Walk down R to find The Caves Route.

***The Caves Route 300m 4 Start: 30m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked 'CR'. Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following the wear marks on the rock to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB. 1) 20m Traverse out R and up rock 'steps' with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this. 2) 30m Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R. From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again. 3a) Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to Trojan, then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge. Another alternate is to climb the easy sport route Boag's Lite 20m R of the chimney. 3b) This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro. Bert Salmon 06/06/1926

Super Directissima 23m 12 Start: At far R side of Cave 3. Marked ‘SD’. Boldly step R out onto face. Directly up, keeping R of bulge. Minimal protection. Paul Caffyn, Mike & Chris Meadows 06/01/1968

*Traverse To Cave 4 40m 2 Start: At R-hand base of Cave 3. Not bad fun across an exposed, unprotected traverse. Climb down and around to a wide dirt ledge. Traverse R, down a big step, then follow this ledge which slopes diagonally upwards and then diagonally downwards and move around into Cave 4. When returning, don’t start too high. Keep low. Bert Salmon, Lyell Vidler 1926

Prometheus II 45m 8 Start: At upper R side of Cave 4. Marked ‘PII’. Note that the topo picture more accurately depicts the grade 18 (DF) version. 1) 20m Straight up for 5m to the top of the buttress (past a tricky wire placement), then traverse R across the easy slab to the broken rock, up this to the vertical crack. Belay. Another variant on this pitch starts lower than the PI mark and traverses out R and then up. Similar grade. 2a) 25m (8-13) Many variants of this pitch have been done. They all involve traversing diagonally L across the slab, and then up. The more you traverse before climbing up, the easier the grade. Tree belay in the scrub beneath Cave 5. Fairly run out and a bit loose, take care. 2b) 20m (18) Climb the crack direct. Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb, Julie Henry 13/05/1956

Often ogled, the Summit Cave on Tibro is the new you-beaut sport climbing crag in Queensland, having undergone a wave of intense development from 2005-2007. The result is some of the most spectacular looking climbs in the country.
 
The easiest access is by climbing The Caves Route up into 'The Scrub'. Some climbers solo the Caves Route while many others feel most comfortable with a rope on a few sections. Don't be a hero!
 

Overexposed 120m 15 Start: About 10m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's E summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves. 1) 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and PR. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave. 2) 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner onto the very exposed wall. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L). Good holds but exposed. 3) 17m A difficult move out of the cave, moving up under the roof of the cave on the L out onto a point. On top of the cave easier ground, then traverse R above cave and around the corner and up to yet another small cave. 4) 17m A difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. 5) 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit. Les Wood, Donn Groom 30/07/1966

Overexposed DF - 16 From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top. John Oddie, Rick White 13/09/1970

Summit Cave Left Side
To access, stay low at grass level when traversing across The Scrub into the L-hand side of the overhangs. Scramble carefully up the slabs to small sandy ledge with belay (two FH's & an ancient carrot). This is the belay location for these next few routes.

*Ronald Muck 45m 21 Start: This route climbs up the L wall of the big corner. Climb L on scrappy territory (gear) then up past a FH to a rap station. Clip this and keep going up L past FH to cruxy mantle move (careful of ledgefall). Up past some good, spaced trad gear and the odd FH to another tricky bulge. Find a way around this and keep on blasting up and out of the corner. Rap station over on R. Belay up your second, then rap 25m down to ledge, scramble over to rap station then rap again (doable with single 60m rope) or use two ropes. Craig Pohlman 2005	***Tangled Up In Blue 60m 25 Start: Same starting belay as for previous. 1) 30m (25) Head L and up from the alcove to generous ledge (no bolts in this easy section yet). Clip FH and swing out R off the end of the ledge and up into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond finally deviating L to short corner and then stepping R to belay stance. Woo Hoo! (Possible to rap or lower-off from here with a 60m rope, but it's better not to clean on lower -- too steep! Instead, clean on second with top belay or ground belay.) 2) 30m (25) Easily up and slightly L to first FH then more or less straight up steep wall trending R slightly near the end. It is possible to rest in the small cave off to the R at one point if you want (I want! I want!). It's possible to clean this pitch on lower or superior free hanging abseil all the way to the ground. Note: climbers should stay well clear of this route during Spring (August to October) as a Peregrine Falcon's nest is very close to the route. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue (alt) 20/02/2005	Massive Attack 28m 26 A1 Start: Same starting belay as for previous. Climb the initial 8-10m of OOTBAITB but stop before it traverses R. Instead go L a few metres and clip the first BR (long sling). Aid/dog out roof past another three FH's to lip (this section is an open project after a crucial rib broke off). From the lip follow FH's up steep wall to the R eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. p2 is an incomplete project. Please stay off until finished. It's a good idea to go back down after the initial aid section and unclip gear to reduce drag for the free section. FA Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue 05/02/2006	***Out Of The Blue And Into The Black 80m 24 Start: Same starting belay as for previous. This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibro's E face. The start is marked by an archaic bolt at the base of a horizontal crack (now upgraded to a safe bolted belay). This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split. 1) 30m (22) Climb R-ward across the horizontal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance (optional belay), then up the vertical finger-crack to belay stance. 2) 25m (crux) This pitch traverses R with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner 5m above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves R-ward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#2 SLCD with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Do not trust the knifeblade in the ear. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (about 7m or so!). Technically this 15m section is only 22 but it gets two grades extra because you are in unprecedentedly scary country. Up the corner formed by the ear with SLCDs for the roof & small RP's for the corner. Steep, technical and wild climbing. You can traverse off and up to safety or do pitch 3. 3) 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl to the summit. FA Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss 1980. FFA Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins 1980
Into The Morgue ? 25 Details are sketchy but it follows the obvious L to R line R of OOTBAITB. The first 20m looks pretty good then it goes into crazy land, hence the route name. If you came to the crag with a wheelbarrow to cart your balls then please explore up there and find out more for the rest of us. Mark Moorhead 1980's	***Back In Black 20m 25 A direct 2nd pitch to OOTBAITB. Follow standard first pitch (30m 22) and belay either at normal spot (4m below fixed wires), or ideally if rope drag permits continue another 5m past fixed wires and #9 hex to the obvious ledge (natural belay, green alien handy). The line then goes straight though the improbable V of the main roof (one set of SLCDs from 0.5 to 2.5 for gear up to the roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (four FH's also en route). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with strechy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out R to finish the pitch. A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2 x 60m ropes) or complete the 3rd pitch of OOTBAITB (25m 23 - this is the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay). Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin 16/09/2007

Summit Cave Right Side - Weirdo Buttress
This is the wall between Raptures and Trojan. The base camp for these next routes is on the flat gravelly ledge 10m below the start of Trojan. Dump your pack, wipe the sweat from your brow and survey the grandeur above!

*Raptures 60m 24 Start: In the corner 15m R of OOTBAITB, and a few metres L of Strange Fruit. "One of the most serious routes in Australia, I thought I was going to die for sure" - Kim Carrigan. On the crux pitch, Kim describes being 10m out from a #0 RP which sounds like a rather absorbing experience. 1) 30m (23) Up the corner on great rock to natural belay stance, appears to have pretty good gear. From this belay there is a variant second pitch (23) up the obvious line continuing out R towards Trojan (this was climbed by HB during the 90's). 2) 20m (crux) Traverse R above the steep overhangs and passing a few bail pieces towards runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland climbing requiring a very capable and bold approach. The route follows the weakness out L and up to a belay stance. 3. 10m (19) To the top. Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins 1980s	*Strange Fruit 25m 24 Start: Scoot L from base camp's gravel ledge about 15m around the corner and clamber up into a big cave/scoop. Boulder R-wards past first bolt (stickclip if you like) to easy ground up R-trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way R across a balancy ledge to SEW's last bolt and then anchor. In a couple of spots it pays to watch that your rope doesn't get caught up as you swing around the arête. Gareth Llewellin 03/03/2007	*Somebody Else's Wierdo 20m 24 Start: Scoot L from base camp's gravel ledge about 10m around the corner to make a belay on a sloping ramp (single FH and yellow alien if you like). Slab your way up easy ground past two FH's then move L across ledge to base of shallow groove (below whitish streak). Straight up (FH's) to knobs and a rest. Reach L (FH) then blast out that way up steep wall (more FH's) to gain a hanging ledge then anchor. Gareth Llewellin 30/01/2006	*Punk's Not Dead 16m 23 Start: As for SEW to the big knob but reach R (not L) to clip a FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) brings you to the lower-off. Avoid the blocks above anchor! Basically follows the white streak up the R side of this wall. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 30/11/2006
*Four Seasons 28m 22 Start: This route is a more direct way to get to the cave belay (second belay) of Trojan. It's possible to belay for this route on base camp's gravel ledge. Some trad gear is required to make a belay (up to 1.5"). If you're not feeling as confident, it might be an idea to shift the belay point up closer to the steep rock where the real climbing begins. Slab your way carefully on easy ground up and L for 8m to first FH (long sling is a good idea) and then follow four more FH's up trending R through steeper ground and a bouldery crux. After the last FH, you pop out on the slab below the Trojan cave to join Trojan for the last 6m or so with minimal pro (yellow alien possible here). Belay in the cave. If using a 50m rope DON'T lower off the end. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led) 16/12/2005

Summit Cave Right Side - Steepsville!
This is the steep wall above Trojan.

***Trojan 70m 13 Start: At the top L of The Scrub. Wander up the slab to the big ‘T’ marker. A stunning old-time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at this route and think 'How can this be a 13?!'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! 1) 14m (crux) Step out L from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Runout in top section. A selection of SLCDs including #4 or 5 are useful at top belay. 2) 14m Another bold pitch. Walk L across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 SLCD in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave. 3) 15m Step out of cave and climb finger-crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far R of ledge (two 50m ropes) which provide an escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland. 4) 15m Climb the crack-corner to ledge. 5) 15m Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the L. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain. Les Wood, John Tillack 12/03/1966	*Achilles 10m 26 Start: Climb either Four Seasons or Trojan to get to the cave. Sidle R out of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up you go! Powerful underclinging and laybacking in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off. Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 01/2006	***The Bends 13m 27 Start: At hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and R of Trojan's cave about 8m). Climb Four Seasons to access. This is a direct start on Achilles. Reach up from undercling to clip the first bolt then L-wards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing L for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles clipping its last two bolts. You'll be gulping for air after this one. Powerful, sustained climbing with a dynamic crux. Take eight quickdraws. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue (both led) 02/05/2006	***The Beast From The East 15m 29 Start: At the belay as for The Bends. As for The Bends but boulder your way R after the first bolt, hand traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up an awesome orange wall to a semi-rest in a crazy cave. Reach out R to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heatbreak up the last little headwall to anchor. Glasshouses hardest route. Adam Donoghue 11/02/2007
Staple It Together 10m 20 Start: At the Trojan marker. It is possible and recommended to make a trad anchor here for the belayer (small to mid gear). Go R and up past four hard-to-see FH's to rap station. Only established as an access pitch to In Between Dreams. Yuck climbing. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue 29/01/2006	***In Between Dreams 18m 26 Start: To approach IBD, climb SIT or run them together so your belayer isn't left stranded off the ground. Straight up from belay following overhung arête past two FH's. Break L and embrace the steepness (two more FH's) to get established in obvious overhanging corner (Is it a slab or an overhang? I can't tell!) Follow this past three FH's to finish at lower-off on little ledge. One of the most outrageous pitches of sport climbing you'll get on. Sure to leave you with a sore behind from clenching so hard. It's possible to clean on lower (or back jump) but more pleasant to lower all the way to the ground and have your second clean on top rope, then lower them (NOT off the end of the rope, make sure there's a knot in it!). It's a 32m rap from top anchor (possible on stretch with a 60m rope). Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 29/01/2006	(Project - Gareth) - - Breaks R after IBD's 2nd FH. Please stay off until completed.

Summit Cave Right Side - Short and Sweet Sector
Many worthwhile two pitch combinations exist here at the R-hand end of the summit cave area.

*Hyperballad 16m 25 Start: In the slot/gully L of Short and Sweet. Follow easy crack that sickles R-wards (small-med trad). When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in a shallow L-facing corner below a bulge. Above this a #2 friend or #0.75 camalot in the undercling slot is optional (but nice) before clipping a second FH up on bulge. Once established on bulge, head out L (not R up MotE) to slopey edges and layaways (two more FH's) and a lower-off out to the L. Gareth Llewellin 12/03/2007	*Morning Of The Earth 20m 24 Start: As for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge. Head out R (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to land on ledge with lower-off. Ross Ferguson 12/03/2007	**Bird Of Prey 33m 25 Start: At Short And Sweet beneath the line of FH's. The stars are for the first pitch alone. 1) 20m (21) Thought provoking and interesting to the last drop. Climb S&S (two SLCDs), then straight up past six FH's. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing. One of the best pitches of this style in the Glasshouses. 2) 13m (crux) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FH's). Gain finger sized crack (trad) that sends you L into 'bell cave' belay. The hard section is short but steep. One 30m abseil or two shorter ones to ground. p1: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led) 04/02/2006 p2: Gareth Llewellin 18/02/2006	**Adrenaline Gives Me Gas 35m 23 Start: At Short And Sweet. 1) 22m (23) Up S&S for 20m to big rest where you can traverse L onto slick orange wall (FH). Crux past this on polished marble to second FH, then up to belay in back of cave on natural gear (finger-sized). 2) 13m (23) Belay-gripping exposure. Out R side of cave roof past two FH’s on outrageous overhanging rock. Finish up awesome fingery slab on perfect little edges past two FH's to double rings. Rap off. It's possible to climb this route in one pitch and just get back to the ground on stretch using a 60m rope. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 13/03/1998
Short And Sweet 35m 13 Start: This climb takes the obvious R-leading corner crack about 20m R of Trojan. Marked ‘S’. Atmospheric climbing up a polished R-tending groove. Protection on the route is quite technical to place, and is sparse at the start (crux) so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Belay off tree at top. A doubled 50m rope will get you back to the ground from the tree. You are actually rapping straight down The Digital Revolution. Les Wood, Ted Cais 16/07/1966	*Big Empty 48m 21 Start: At line of five FH’s up wall just R of Short And Sweet. 1) 30m (21) This is technical slabby weirdness on great rock. A #1.5 cam protects the final section to the chain. Move R at top to find rap chain, or if you're doing p2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on S&S. 2) 18m (crux) The first FH is up on the L wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistake AGMG's first bolt (further down the corner) or WTL's first FH (further up at the top of the corner) for this one. Swing up L on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with WTL). Continue straight up passing another two FH's through steepening to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off. p1: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin 26/03/2000 p2: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 18/4/2006	**Walk The Line 25m 17 Start: Climb S&S, BE, MKJROYD or DR and belay on My Karma's anchor. Traverse directly L across hanging orange wall (underneath the start of Circlet) passing two FH's until you reach the belay ledge for AGMG's trad belay (small-med gear). Go up onto large ledge and continue walking L until the ledge starts to steepen. Behind you on overhead wall is a FH (Bird of Prey's p2's second). Clip this and continue L into unlikely terrain and a final FH. Thrilling moves gain a belay ledge in spectacular position under a jutting roof. Drag isn't bad if you extend a few pieces but you can break this into two shorter pitches by belaying at AGMG's trad belay. 30m free hanging rap to the ground (seems further!) Gets the stars only for the conclusion. Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt) 11/02/2006	*Circlet 16m 22 Very exposed steep thugging on the wall R of Adrenaline’s second pitch. Starts at the top of Short And Sweet and traverse L a few moves then up and around the arête to a small cave. Now blast up the slopers to finish at A’s anchor. Three ringbolts and two FH’s. Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 26/03/2000
**My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma 20m 20 Start: As for Big Empty. 1) 28m (20) Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out R and follow the line of FH's leading up and R to rap chain. 2) 15m (18) Cross over S&S (wire or reach out L and clip WTL's first FH with a long sling) and head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching L to clip the second RB, continue directly up the wall and climb past two FH's. Follow big holds L-wards around the arête and up this (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it is 35m to the ground. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (alt) 11/04/2006	The Digital Revolution 28m 18 Start: 10m R of Short And Sweet L wall of small cul-de-sac past FH to stance. Get in some good gear (a few wires and SLCDs) then run it out with care to chain belay (shared with Big Empty). The last 10m are groundfall country! Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 30/06/1996	Kronos 23m 11 Start: You must ascend a slab (grade 2) to get to the start, which is on a dirt ledge near a very small cave. Up R (past mouth of cave) then L into short water-worn chimney. Chimney and bridge up this to a slabby finish up the NE shoulder. Dennis Stocks, Barry Collier 19/07/1966	Jupiter 40m 13 Start: Below the third groove L of the Caves Route chimney, then climb the slab (grade 1) about 20m straight up to a small bushy ledge on the R. Marked 'J'. 1) 21m Up the groove and out to the R onto a ledge. 2) 18m (crux) Up the groove directly above the first pitch, then climb up the wall R of the smooth groove and up to ledge. Up L to the NE shoulder. Shane & Col Smithies 27/09/1985
Juno 30m 13 Start: On the dirt ledge at the base of the second groove L of the Caves Route chimney. Marked 'J'. Up the groove to a ledge. Continue up the groove to another ledge, then up twin grooves. From this point, out L onto a slab and then up to the NE shoulder. Col & Shane Smithies 27/09/1985	Hercules 30m 9 Start: Below the first groove L of the Caves Route chimney where The Scrub track meets the slab. Marked 'H'. Up the slab for 13m and into the groove. Up the groove and into a gully, then out on to the NE shoulder. Col Smithies 10/05/1985	Boags Lite 19m 12 Start: On the arete 20m R of Caves Route chimney, immediately L of cave 5. This route could be done as an alternative to p3 of the Caves Route. Follow the line of four FHs to rap station. Colin Carstens 04/2005

The following routes are located in Cave 5. Best accessed via the Caves Route.

(Project - Craig) - - Start: 5m inside the cave. Please keep off until tag is removed.

*No Membership Required 10m 23 Start: 7m L. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing R. Four FH's. Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara 08/01/2006

Crikey 10m 22 Start: 6m R. Four FH's up the overhanging corner traversing L to clip the shared lower-off upside down. Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara 15/10/2006

*Groundhog Day 16m 27 Start: The R-most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms. This took Craig over 60 days of work to complete (!) so the grade needs a thorough examination. Craig Pohlman 03/11/2005

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.
 

Keloid 45m 9 Start: About 70m down R from the Caves Route at low angled wall. Up 15m of slab below a small buttress. Then up the centre of the buttress to finish at Steelwood trees in a grassy area. The Caves Route is 10m L at this point. Dennis Stocks, Neill Lamb 1966	Wasp 85m 10 Start: Start about 10m R of Keloid at the foot of a scoop of easy angled slabs. Marked 'W'. This route is considerably undergraded. 1) 36m Up the slabs and diagonally L across the top side of a gully. Continue on a L trend until steepness eases to worn slabs. Continue on up to the L for another 4m into a gully and dodgy TB. 2) 18m Climb back down and traverse directly R along small ledges across to a piton below a groove. Continue R and slightly down for 3m to twin PRs. Belay off these and wires. 3) 29m (crux) L a bit, then straight up to base of a groove. Up this ('Wasp Groove') with adequate pro to sloping rock and TB. From here, scramble up and L to connect with the Caves Route. Neill Lamb, Dennis Stocks 22/01/1967	Wasp RHV 70m 12 Start: Same as for Wasp. 1) 40m Virtually straight up to the twin PR belay at the end of Wasp’s second pitch. 2) 29m Same as for pitch 3 of Wasp. J. Mather, M. Siwek, K. Jesienowski 10/07/1983	Directissima 100m 13 Start: Between Wasp and Desperation Wall. This route is underprotected - beware! 1) 28m (crux). Up easy slab, up onto the wall and trend slightly R and up to PR, then on up to a bulge. Up a R-trending groove in the L-side of the bulge, then slightly L of white streaks to a belay on ledge. 2) 41m Climb directly up from ledge to find PR at 11m. Continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse L to base of groove. Finish up 'Wasp Groove'. Paul Caffyn, Mike & Chris Meadows 30/12/1967
**Line Of Credit 70m 16 Start: 5m L of Desperation Wall. Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route. 1) 35m 12 FH’s to rap station. 2) 35m 11 FH’s to rap station. Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman 17/07/2004	*Desperation Wall 130m 15 Start: At the base of an impressive blank wall about 10m R of Directissima. Marked 'DW'. This route climbs good solid rock but is dangerously runout. Note that various other finishes have been done, but the best is as described. 1) 22m This pitch has very little protection. Straight up on nice rock for 8m, then traverse diagonally R with care on sloping holds (poor #3 SLCD in pocket) to ledge and belay. 2) 17m Traverse L for 5m then up scary, thin wall with little pro with a slight R trend, then up to small ledge and BB. 3) 50m (crux) Straight up for 5m to vertical wall. Turn this wall to the L and head for the yellow overhang (PRs). Continue up shallow corner (med wires) skirting overhang on R to ledge and bush belay. 4) 25m Continue up into Cave 1. Ron Cox early 60's	Desperation Wall UQBWC Finish 100m 6 Start: In the belay cave on top of pitch three of Desperation Wall. 1) 33m Traverse down from cave to R below big overhanging bulge. Traverse horizontally R passing Ishoni's chains to ledge and TB. 2) 32m (crux) Ascend straight up past some loose rock to ledge and TB. 3) 37m Continue vertical line on great rock and holds to groove on R. Up groove to TB. Scramble up to Cave 3 Ron Cox, Pat Conaghan 1962	*Ishoni 35m 19 Start: Scramble up onto vegetated terrace 20m R of Desperation Wall, then walk off L-end of terrace 3m to tree. Belay out of wide crack. A proud line. Double ropes essential. Up L around bulge, then up to first of three black FH’s. Up and L to ledge (big gear). R off ledge to horizontal break in superb marble-like stone, then back L to FH. A long, undercling reach, then up to the last FH. RP's take you up the ever-steepening wall, then a good wire and a thankful rest on easy ground. Slab to chains. Well protected with careful placements. Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 31/07/1999
Black Angus 113m 15 Start: As for Black Orpheus. This climb ascends the wall directly, on the left of BO. A fairly comprehensive rack with a selection of wires, including RP’s, hexes and SLCDs from small to size 2.5 should provide plenty of protection. As with all new routes there is still some loose rock around. 1) 20m Climb straight up the first pitch of BO to large ledge and natural belay. 2) 13m Step up L from the belay onto short wall above then easier ground. Follow the L-trending ramp for a few meters and step up to a natural belay on a small stance. (An escape R is possible onto BO) 3) 30m Step L from the belay and climb obvious line above the loose-looking blocks. Continue up the steep section, crux, staying R of a small tree, to where the angle eases. Follow the easier ground to another natural belay a few meters L of and below the obvious corner. 4) 40m Traverse R from the belay and up into the corner (L of the chimney of BO), follow this to where it widens to a grassy gully, then step up and R onto the wall and climb easily to a tree. 5) 10m Scramble up the slabs to another tree at the mouth of the big cave. Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson 17/02/2008	**Black Orpheus 145m 10 Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'. A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope. 1) 20m Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB. 2) 45m (crux) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB. 3) 40m Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB. 4) 15m Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the Caves Route, or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers 24/07/1969	Black Orpheus Variant 35m 11 Start: At the end of pitch two of Black Orpheus about 5m R of the chimney. Start up short crack, then diagonally L past old PRs on great rock. When you hit the chimney, climb the wall R of it on good holds to an easy scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB. Finish as for pitch four of the original into Cave 3. Unknown 1960's	The Whiteman 150m 12 Start: 7m L of Orpheus. Near large upturned eucalyptus. 1) 50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly R to belay tree. 2) 40m Following L-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend R to shallow block corner L of wide crack. 3) 50m Up corner then directly to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch! 4) 10m Scramble up to cave. A fine route. Avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except for small patch on pitch two. Robert Staszewski & Peter Beames 18/06/1991
Orpheus 150m 8 Start: About 20m R of Black Orpheus. This route is fairly contrived. 1) 25m Up an open rock gully to a TB. 2) 29m Trend R over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up to a TB. 3) 27m Up slab trending L to a line of small trees. L along dirt ledge to the face R of the Black Orpheus chimney. This ledge is the same as the end of pitch three of Black Orpheus. 4) 28m (crux) Up onto the wall R of the chimney. Traverse R-ward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully to a TB. This is the same belay as the top of pitch three of Prometheus I. 5) 40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus I. R. Brooks, G. Baines 25/08/1957	Earthenware 25m 10 This route climbs the delightful white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. It has little pro but great rock. TB. FSA Neil Monteith 13/06/1996	Prometheus I 120m 4 Start: In big gully about 30m R of Orpheus on the E face. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them. 1) 23m Climb up into the rock gully, walk R along tree thicket then scramble L and up to base of steep rock. 2) 27m Climb rib to the R of the belay using large holds. A tree runner is at the top of this. Continue tending L over loose and broken rocks to TB. 3) 20m Traverse R from belay around buttress, then up to TB. 4) 32m Ascend to short vertical wall which reaches across the face. Traverse across smooth slabs below the wall to a large dead tree, which is the belay. 5) 32m Traverse back L across the top of the wall over easy rock to a host of TBs. 6) 10m Scramble up short rib and cross to large tree below final wall. 7) 17m Climb up into chimney from belay tree. From here, Cave 4 can be reached by continuing up the chimney and eventually climbing out to the R, or several ways exist of climbing out to the L. Neill Lamb, Ron Brooks 1953

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.
 

Sideshow Bob 247m 20 Start: 10m L of the NE Buttress route, or from access track to Shadow Glen, look for the FH at 6m on buttress past the short vertical wall where the access route meets the rock. Marked Sbo. This is a modern incarnation of the historic NE Buttress route. It does cross the original line in several places, although the original route remains relatively undisturbed and is able to be climbed as described. Take wires, small to medium hexes and small to medium cams. If the crux proves too committing, the first four pitches are good value. Take a second rope if rapping off (all belays have FHs and mallions). 1) 28m (10) Easy climbing up buttress (grade 4), to FH at 6m (L of small tree), continue up into gully (some gear) passing another FH to DBB. 2) 30m (13) Go L off belay to FH, follow more FHs and a wire just before DBB. 3) 30m (15) Straight up following the FHs to DBB. Some loose rock on this pitch. 4) 45m (16) Nice climbing up the line of FHs (with some gear), with a tricky move around a smooth mottled rock section to DBB on ledge. 5) 20m (13) Easy climbing up R off the belay, following the FHs into a vegetated gully and up to DBB. From the belay station, one can reach the old dodgy bolt ladder or escape route of NE Buttress (refer to NE Buttress description) or otherwise head up to the start of the overhung 'Crazy Crack' of P6. 6) 30m (crux) Hard stemming moves with protection improving as you progress up the crack. When crack veers right 30 degrees, escape the nastiness by boldly stepping R onto the face, enjoying the abundant fresh air and, with a sigh of relief clip the FH, then past two more to DBB (admire old belay hardware to the R, from a bygone era). 7) 32m (16) Step L off belay to first FH, then straight up following more FHs (passing rusted relics from the past), with a cruxy move near the top. DBB belay. 8) 32m (10) Scramble up 2m to spacious ledge then walk R 10m to 5th DBB of Sunburnt Buttress, then climb p6 of SB (sparse gear) to DBB. From here you can either rap down the Caves Route or Blabbermouth, or continue to the top and walk down the hikers track (West Track). Wayne Mieth, A Anderson 09/09/2005	The North-East Buttress 300m 11 Start: To find the start of this route, continue down and N from the start of Prometheus I for about 80m past a short vertical wall to find a vegetated gully. Marked NEB. This route is extremely long and route finding is difficult, but it does have the merit of good rock and little vegetation. 1) 20m Easily up gully to TB. 2) 28m Up for 5m then R around the buttress below some loose blocks. Keep traversing around to the R, ascending slightly to gain a spacious ledge and natural gear belay. 3) 37m Ascend R from ledge to short wall. Traverse this to the R and above PR in block. Now ascend tending R slightly up to TB. 4) 27m Cross to the L on sloping ramp up to TB below buttress. Stance on spacious ledge. 5) 33m Straight up on good rock to PR belay below steep wall. 6) 18m Traverse R around buttress and up into a wooded gully, below a steep, yellow groove. TB. You can escape from the route here by traversing L to meet Cave 4. 7) 37m (crux). Up wall on L, traverse L over big loose block then up to yellow patch below steep wall. Up bolt ladder (originally aided) with hard moves, then traverse R below big block to BB. 8) 33m Pass under block traversing L, then straight up tending slightly R to small bush and ledge. BB. 9) 33m Straight up past mangled bolt (useless) to second BR. Delicate move past this straight up past two more mangled bolts. Gain easier ground. TB. 10) 33m Scramble out to L on sloping ledge which leads to NE shoulder. Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy 1965	Rock Garden 225m 11 Start: About 100m R from NE Buttress below obvious large chimney (10m L of pillar with FH’s). This route is loose and has tricky route-finding. 1) 33m Up wall below chimney. Tricky move L around overhanging flake. Move up trending diagonally L until vertical ascent can be made to the base of the chimney. Ascend chimney (narrow and strenuous) climbing out onto main rock wall when chockstone is reached. Climb onto this chockstone and continue on to top of buttress to large tree for belay. 2) 37m Vertical ascent for 8m then horizontal traverse R to seams. Straight up to a small niche/alcove, then belay off natural gear. 3) 40m Delicate move out of belay up L. Ascend until short R traverse can be made into scunge-filled crack. Ascend vertically about 7m and then traverse L, up and out of crack. Tree runner. Continue ascent through scunge until a diagonal R traverse brings you to a large TB below a blank wall. 4) 37m (crux) Climb steep ramp in front of belay tree to tree runner and ascend onto vertical wall. Climb directly over loose holds, leading to a delicate traverse on small holds. Handholds around corner of bulge lead to wide shelf and TB. 5) 40m Straight up over extremely sloping horizontal strata to ramp. Follow ramp R until you get to a TB. 6) 37m Straight up over good holds to NE shoulder. John Tillack, Dennis Stocks 07/08/1966	**Blabbermouth 200m 16 Start: L-hand corner of Sunburnt Buttress alcove (8m L of SB, before ground drops away). 1) 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. This pitch is described for historical interest only as most parties choose to climb the variant start, which offers cleaner climbing and more protection. 2) 34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay as for p2 of Sunburnt. 3) 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past two BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay). 4) 20m (13) Straight up past five BRs. 5) 28m (14) step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear). 6) 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at fifth belay of Sunburnt. 7) 25m (10) As for last pitch of SB to finish on NE shoulder. Rack: to #3 friend. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (alt) 03/10/2004
**Blabbermouth VS 22m 13 Start: At the L-trending crack 3m L of SB. This is great. The best protected easy single pitch route on Tibro. All the gear is bomber in a solid crack (a rarity for Tibro). Merges with Blabbermouth's first pitch a few meters from the belay chains. Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 30/03/2005	**Sunburnt Buttress 185m 19 Start: Start as for Rock Garden (just L of Peeping Tom pillar on Shadow Glen). Note: Route rebolted by Safer Cliffs Queensland September 2004. Lots of rock, bolts, and air; a Lost Boys style adventure for the masses. Bring SLCD’s 0 - 3, Wires, and helmets. Route gets sun until 3pm, hence the name! 1) 28m (18) Up Rock Garden for a few moves then climb wall on R past six FH's to U-bolt anchor. 2) 30m (15) Trend easily L across Rock Garden to FH. Keep climbing diagonally L past another four FH's, then run it out with marginal gear to small ledge and U-bolt anchor. 3) 25m (crux) Beware - lots of loose rock on this pitch. Lee copped a big falling rock on his back on the first ascent. Straight up past three FH's then traverse directly L over rotting rock past three FH's to arrive safely on ledge with U-bolt anchor. You’ll need a confident second! 4) 36m (16) Start going L then up exposed headwall with improving rock quality past seven FH's to reach U-bolt anchor. 5) 45m (14) Finally some good rock. Trend slightly R past thin cracks heading for the dead tree up high. Five FH's and some assorted small SLCD’s will get you to a large vegetated ledge and double FH belay. 6) 20m (10) Easily up wall above to arrive at bushes and the north-east summit ridge. No protection on this pitch. Double ring belay. To descend: Rap down three pitches then rap straight down to gully and big tree. One more rap from tree will get you on the ground. Allow 1.5 hours for descent. Neil Monteith (led all), Lee Cujes 19/03/2000	**El Scorcho 107 21 Start: Climb the first two pitches of either Blabbermouth or Sunburnt Buttress. 1) 53m (21) Follow the first four FH’s of Sunburnt until it traverses L. Instead of traversing head straight up for three more FH’s then traverse L below obvious short corner to a FH. From here go up passing five more FH’s trending R-wards. Belay is up and L from final FH. Taking half a dozen long runners is recommended to reduce rope drag on this long pitch. 2) 24m (19) Step L off belay then up passing six FH’s. Eases off in the second half. (Pitches 2 & 3 have a couple of optional trad