A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - The Underworld, Mt Beerwah

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The Underworld, Mt Beerwah

Located on a terrace 70m off the ground, this area has a good feel, with generally well-protected climbing in an airy situation.

To access, easily solo the first two pitches of West Beerwah. If you’re not already up at the mountain, you can access this area more directly from the carpark (~50 mins). From the carpark, follow the closed off road west for about 1km to a gate and road intersection. Turn L. About 50m beyond third watercourse and the end of the water-runoff area, a faint track leads uphill to the west buttress. The 50m lower rock tier is bypassed on the RHS. Things brings you to the start of West Beerwah. Scramble up two pitches to terrace.

Routes are listed from R to L.

Kenny Moans 125m 17
1) 30m (17) From the ledge, there is a L-facing corner with large crack in it (3m from corner in wall). That's the start. Up the slanting crack (good gear). R to good stance (BR). Committing moves up to horizontal break (small and technical, but good gear). Good and interesting moves up increasingly positive features to next horizontal (small to med gear). Veer R slightly up crazy cracks to where it begins to ease, then slightly L and onto ledge. DBB and small trees.
2) 40m (crux) Move through trees up gully, then veer L onto ledge. Step L again into obvious open groove. Climb groove to a step R onto arête of groove, then a solid move to a stance and BR. Stay on arête and follow it to a L facing corner. Medium and small SLCD, then a cruxy move to continue up corner, then move L into large fantastic cave. Floor crack for belay, or use chain belay further on. Can escape off here.
3) 50m (14) Leave the cave and continue up same corner onto sloping ramp with trees. The slab is covered in small, egg-sized chickenheads. Will have some fixed pro soon, but is currently leadable, although a tad bold
Mike Cook, Steve McMillan, Garrie O’Neil 10/1997

Kenny Moans p2 VF 40m 18
At 30m step L trending towards small overhang above blank corner, bridge up corner with no pro to good wire, continue on to chains in cave above Polydegmon.
Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 19/06/2004

Hades 65m 20
Start: 3m L of Kenny Moans.
Corner then striking fingercrack. Bolts and natural gear.
Mike Cook, Darrin Carter 10/09/2000

Polydegmon 65m 17
Start: 8m L of Kenny Moans.
Beautiful thin face to small cave with small ribs in it. Out of cave, then brilliant wide bridging above.
Darrin Carter, Aaron Jones, Mike Cook 27/08/2000

Vulcan 55m 15
Need a long rope, or a good second who can climb a bit off the belay. 25m L of Kenny Moans at good looking pockety crack in a L-facing corner. Veer up passing good hexes and wires to interesting stand-up move (balance) on good feet (BR). Up passing hexes and good medium SLCD’s following the good line, then up the nice crack to a balancy move L onto a stance (PR in pocket - bring 70cm of tape to go through the eye to avoid crossloading 'biner). Hard smeary move over a bulge to a fantastic incut jug. Haul over, then a step R to horizontal break (PR). Up, with some mild zigzagging to stance (BR). Angle eases and the pro spaces out (large nuts and medium hexes). Straight up to nest of gear, then diagonally R across the slab to gear, then up the line to grassy ledge. Walk R 4m to chains. Rap. If careful, two 50m ropes will get you down on stretch.
Darrin Carter, Mike Cook 16/08/2000

Midas 60m 16
Darrin Carter, Chris Poole 10/09/2000

Hermes DS - 17
Darrin Carter, Scott Lawrence 17/09/2000

Hermes 50m 18
Start: Start 5m down and L of Hermes DS.
Cruise up dished slab with R-facing overlap and PR. Move up to stance on top of overlap and clip welcome BR. Interesting and thought provoking moves up and R into shallow corner which takes small/medium gear. Committing moves around poor pro to a stance on your L. Move back R onto tenuous slab and poor pro. Run it out. Great gear in small corner below bulge. Cruise up to BR on bulge and high step up and follow open groove (large SLCD) to a fixed PR leading to a steep small headwall. Over this and move L to rap station. Beware of large loose block on R.
Scott Lawrence, Brett Jewel 24/09/2000

Medusa 50m 17
Start: Start 10m L of Hermes.
Launch off from block leaning against slab. Climb slab with interesting moves passing gear and PR, climb on to a big foothold and BR with a slight bulge above you and tricky moves to the R. Continue up shallow corner until a PR is found. Keep thinking and move up towards dish. Bridge up and clip BR and follow shallow pockets and thin line passing a bushy ledge on your R. Huge runout to the belay of Vulcan passing optional poor gear.
Scott Lawrence, Aaron Jones 09/2000

Interview With A Vampire 40m 19
Now open for ascents up to the rap station. Small wires and bolt plates needed.
Darrin Carter 2002

Kenny Moans 125m 17 1) 30m (17) From the ledge, there is a L-facing corner with large crack in it (3m from corner in wall). That's the start. Up the slanting crack (good gear). R to good stance (BR). Committing moves up to horizontal break (small and technical, but good gear). Good and interesting moves up increasingly positive features to next horizontal (small to med gear). Veer R slightly up crazy cracks to where it begins to ease, then slightly L and onto ledge. DBB and small trees. 2) 40m (crux) Move through trees up gully, then veer L onto ledge. Step L again into obvious open groove. Climb groove to a step R onto arête of groove, then a solid move to a stance and BR. Stay on arête and follow it to a L facing corner. Medium and small SLCD, then a cruxy move to continue up corner, then move L into large fantastic cave. Floor crack for belay, or use chain belay further on. Can escape off here. 3) 50m (14) Leave the cave and continue up same corner onto sloping ramp with trees. The slab is covered in small, egg-sized chickenheads. Will have some fixed pro soon, but is currently leadable, although a tad bold Mike Cook, Steve McMillan, Garrie O’Neil 10/1997	Kenny Moans p2 VF 40m 18 At 30m step L trending towards small overhang above blank corner, bridge up corner with no pro to good wire, continue on to chains in cave above Polydegmon. Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 19/06/2004
Hades 65m 20 Start: 3m L of Kenny Moans. Corner then striking fingercrack. Bolts and natural gear. Mike Cook, Darrin Carter 10/09/2000	Polydegmon 65m 17 Start: 8m L of Kenny Moans. Beautiful thin face to small cave with small ribs in it. Out of cave, then brilliant wide bridging above. Darrin Carter, Aaron Jones, Mike Cook 27/08/2000
Vulcan 55m 15 Need a long rope, or a good second who can climb a bit off the belay. 25m L of Kenny Moans at good looking pockety crack in a L-facing corner. Veer up passing good hexes and wires to interesting stand-up move (balance) on good feet (BR). Up passing hexes and good medium SLCD’s following the good line, then up the nice crack to a balancy move L onto a stance (PR in pocket - bring 70cm of tape to go through the eye to avoid crossloading 'biner). Hard smeary move over a bulge to a fantastic incut jug. Haul over, then a step R to horizontal break (PR). Up, with some mild zigzagging to stance (BR). Angle eases and the pro spaces out (large nuts and medium hexes). Straight up to nest of gear, then diagonally R across the slab to gear, then up the line to grassy ledge. Walk R 4m to chains. Rap. If careful, two 50m ropes will get you down on stretch. Darrin Carter, Mike Cook 16/08/2000	Midas 60m 16 Darrin Carter, Chris Poole 10/09/2000
Hermes DS - 17 Darrin Carter, Scott Lawrence 17/09/2000	Hermes 50m 18 Start: Start 5m down and L of Hermes DS. Cruise up dished slab with R-facing overlap and PR. Move up to stance on top of overlap and clip welcome BR. Interesting and thought provoking moves up and R into shallow corner which takes small/medium gear. Committing moves around poor pro to a stance on your L. Move back R onto tenuous slab and poor pro. Run it out. Great gear in small corner below bulge. Cruise up to BR on bulge and high step up and follow open groove (large SLCD) to a fixed PR leading to a steep small headwall. Over this and move L to rap station. Beware of large loose block on R. Scott Lawrence, Brett Jewel 24/09/2000
Medusa 50m 17 Start: Start 10m L of Hermes. Launch off from block leaning against slab. Climb slab with interesting moves passing gear and PR, climb on to a big foothold and BR with a slight bulge above you and tricky moves to the R. Continue up shallow corner until a PR is found. Keep thinking and move up towards dish. Bridge up and clip BR and follow shallow pockets and thin line passing a bushy ledge on your R. Huge runout to the belay of Vulcan passing optional poor gear. Scott Lawrence, Aaron Jones 09/2000	Interview With A Vampire 40m 19 Now open for ascents up to the rap station. Small wires and bolt plates needed. Darrin Carter 2002