A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - Thanksgiving Wall, Mt Beerwah

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Thanksgiving Wall, Mt Beerwah

Approx 450m to the R of where the tourist track meets the rock apron. Take the walking track to the base of the Hikers Route (150m). Where the slab of the Hikers Route begins, turn R and follow the apron around for the remaining 300m. Routes are listed from L to R.

Beginners To Advanced 27m 14
Start: 10m L of large, white, bent gumtree.
Up slab to a large dish pocket. Climb past one BR up to the belay shared with The Phantom Walks.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 04/02/1996

The Phantom Walks 27m 15
Start: 3m R of Beginners To Advanced.
A crazy glass-smooth slab start eases to a low angle knobby wall with a BR at 10m. Rap.
Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 23/11/1995

Tide's Out 12m 12
Start: This good little route is to the R of The Phantom Walks.
A smooth start, then up the natural line. At the top, move R to the belay for Chips Ahoy.
Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, Alex McConnell 27/11/1995

Chips Ahoy 12m 13
Start: Starts opposite the bent gum tree.
Up an obvious pocketed line to a steep, short headwall. Rap.
Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 23/11/1995

Gambier II 30m 14
Start: R of Chips Ahoy and initialled ‘GII’.
Up the worn water groove and into the big pockets. Continue up to TB. Has a reputation for very poor protection. Traverse L to the belay above The Phantom Walks.
Greg Stead, Chris Meadows, Bob Anthony 08/06/1968

Gambier I 45m 14
Start: 1.5m R of Gambier II. Initialled ‘GI’.
Up to small ledges. Up again past delicate moves and over to a corner. Up past big pockets and out L onto the slab. Up the corner and out L again to the flake. Up into a gully to a TB or traverse L to the belay above The Phantom Walks.
FSA Rick White 06/01/1968

Medosa - 16
Start: On the upper tier above Gambier I and II.
A two-pitch crack system with old pitons in places.
John Tillock, Pete Giles 1966

First Come First Served 25m 14
Start: To the R of Gambier I under a tiny orange roof.
Up slab until the little roof, then follow Gambier I's L-trending corner-crack until a good stance and a weakness in the arête allows a traverse R onto the slabby face. Up slab, using crack for protection. Move L up tiny, steep headwall on jugs to rap station.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 01/01/1996

The next five routes share the same rap station.

Release The Hounds 25m 20
Start: To the R of First Come First Served.
Goes through the overlap. Pass three BR’s before climbing eases to nice crack-protected face climbing. Move R at the top to the belay.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 14/01/1996

Ants Without Pants 25m 18
Start up a crack, which blanks out below a large dish up high. Some thin, exciting climbing past three BR's. Finish up the crack moving R at the top to the belay.
Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 05/12/1995

Ants Without Pants VF - 19
Up original to the second BR, then traverse R on thin holds to another BR. Great face climbing on small holds provides a worthwhile and exciting variant finish.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 01/01/1996

Edward Scissor Hands 25m 23
If it were any thinner, it wouldn't exist. Start off the large fallen block with good moves to a wire-eating slot. Stand up above a small rooflet to clip the first FH. Diabolically thin face climbing past second FH to thin crack (wires). Climb easier ground past one more BR with an exciting finish up the slab to a rap station.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 18/02/1996

Mixed Emotions 25m 20
Start: 2m R of Edward Scissor Hands and just L of arête.
Thin moves to BR then large SLCD. Committing moves on the face L of the arête just above the second BR to gain the crack-protected face. A medium hex will see you through to easier ground. Move L to belay.
Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 12/03/1995

We Don't Do Thickshakes 40m 18
Start: In small corner to the R of Mixed Emotions.
Crimp up corner to a large pocket jug. From a good stance motor past three BR’s with thin face holds to a huge bushy dish. A funky mantle move out of the dish will set you cruising to the top. Belay is shared by Drope Rag. Take hexes.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 26/01/1996

Drope Rag 40m 17
Start: 1.5m R of We Don't Do Thickshakes.
This is the first of a trio of longer natural lines towards the end of the wall. Interesting moves up this natural line with a hard pull near the top. Thin holds, combined with pro that is not obvious adds to the excitement of this venture. Rap.
Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 23/11/1995

Thanks For The Plum 45m 17
The middle crack of the trio - vegetated. Move up the obvious line until a bulge slows progress. Tricky moves up to a good stance. Move R and continue up and R to finish at the belay above Flight Of The Phoenix.
Sean Smith, Darrin Carter 26/12/1995

Flight Of The Phoenix 40m 14
The last major crack at the end of the cliff. This goes up slightly R then steps L up slab. Continue up the shallow corner to the rap station.
Alex McConnell, Helen Conn 26/11/1996

Surf's Up VS - 20
Start: Around the corner, R of Flight Of The Phoenix .
A steep, boulder-problem start protected by a BR. Up short slab to join original at its first BR. Continue up original.
Sean Smith, Darrin Carter 07/01/1996

Surf's Up 13m 17
Start: On the Mr Busy pillar up nice but short hand crack.
Bridge up to a bulge with a BR to protect tricky moves. Pass another BR on nice face holds to the top. Rap.
Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 07/01/1996

Mr Busy 10m 25
The R-hand arête with four FHs. Hard moves all the way. Rap.
Darrin Carter 1999

Obscuria 15m 15
15m R of Mr Busy at obvious L-facing corner on main wall. Continue up second corner, then crack to TB.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 15/02/1997

This is the end of Thanksgiving Wall proper, but the following routes between Thanksgiving Wall and The Underworld are grouped in as well.

In the bush down to R beneath the Mr Busy pillar is a small outcrop of rock with a few routes on it. The first mini-route is on the side facing Beerwah proper.

Why Can't It Be Longer 6m 7
The flawlessly smooth handcrack on the L side of the outcrop. Good for learning to hand jam.
FSA Lee Cujes 15/08/1999

The next three routes are on the other side. Follow a track down the L side (facing out). Routes listed R to L.

Emma's Dilemma 15m 13
Up the clean, slabby crackline at the very R-hand end of the buttress to a nut belay. Walk off.
Alexis Bull, Emma Greenbank 18/09/1996

Bolts And Chips But No Mushy Peas 15m 14
Start: On R of buttress.
Start up chimney that is much better than it looks to ledge. Climb the perfect parallel hand crack above to good nut belay. Walk off.
Stuart Lancaster, Sean Smith 18/09/1996

Bully's Bulge 15m 16
Up a steep crack on the L side of the outcrop. Trend L to a nut belay. Walk off.
Alexis Bull, Emma Greenbank 18/09/1996

The next few climbs are in the broken section back up and out to the R of Thanksgiving Wall. The information on routes from here to The Underworld is sketchy at best, so finding them may prove difficult.

Break Of Noon 198m 15
Start: Walk downhill from the Mr Busy pillar about 60m to a level earth ledge with 1m high boulders leaning against the cliff - here the water runnel running up the middle of a nice face is quite obvious. Take cord for all belays.
1) 40m Start up the obvious water runnel, step right at 30m, low angle with good pro to a BR out R. DBB.
2) 45m Traverse R to groove, follow this to a tiny steep wall with a large crack, belay off crack and piton at back of ledge.
3) 45m Continue up this line from ledge trending R to spacious ledge. DBB.
4) 8m Scramble up to piton on R.
5) 60m An easy exit pitch. Climb/scramble up left trending gulley to DBB just before thick bush. Route can be rapped off or walk trending L to tourist track.
1, 2, 3: Darrin Carter, John Hattink 22/12/1996
3 (extended), 4, 5: Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 30/07/2004

Scotch Mist 130m 17
Start: Starts about 150m R of Mr Busy pillar. Initialled ‘S.M’.
1) 50m Up the crack which is a little harder than it looks. Balancy moves passing a blank-looking section leads to a small ledge. Continue straight up until a detached column and a large block are found. This is the belay and a possible rap station.
2) 30m Move 2m R to a shallow crack and continue up to a large ledge.
3) 50m Head R until a vegetated gully/tunnel is located. Continue up here with interesting climbing heading for a large tree.
4) Bush-bash up and L to the tourist track and the descent.
John Veasey, Rick White 06/01/1968

Bombastic 25m 18
Start: Supposedly a couple of hundred metres R of Thanksgiving Wall, 20m L of a large corner.
Hard moves on flaky holds with poor gear makes this a bold lead. I have no illusions that this is a good description.
Darrin Carter, Grant LeLievre 22/04/1998

Acoustic Motorbike 22m 15
Start: 12m R of Bombastic at the weakness 8m L of the large corner.
Tricky move to start over slight bulge to good stance (FH). Move R then follow good holds to small stance. Move up wide groove to belay at small tree on L. Rap off slings. A second pitch (50m) to tree has been done but is not good.
Darrin Carter, Grant LeLievre 22/04/1998

What's Cooking 20m 18
Start: Who knows where?
Arête that steepens at half height. Follow the arête past a med SLCD, PR, and two BRs to a DBB.
Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil 11/10/1998

Shiver Me Timbers 20m 19
A scary corner. Up chimney/corner that thins to hand/finger crack. Manoeuvre R around bulge to belay at small clump of bushes/weeds. Rap off these.
Gareth Llewellin, Darrin Carter 10/07/1997

By Hook Or By Cook 60m 15
Start: Look for large roof at 8m.
1) 25m (15) 3m L of the roof a crack leans R. Follow this to rap station.
2) 35m (14) Step L and follow R-ward leaning fault to natural belay just below vegetation. A large tree with old rap sling is up and L about 15m
Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil 11/10/1998

Too Many Cooks 60m 18
Start: About 50m R of By Hook Or By Cook at highest point of base, near large gum tree with hefty dead limb.
Double ropes recommended. Start up L-arcing crack or up blocky ramp to 5m. Follow corner past sparse pro and low crux to ledge (optional belay). Continue up seams with good pro to below very large detached flake at ¾ height. Step carefully up into fault on L of flake and follow good handrail (great gear) out R to fault in headwall directly above the flake. Up this easing line to ledge and natural belay.
Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil 11/10/1998

West Beerwah 90m 10
Start: Starts about 300m R of Mr Busy pillar at the southern end of the west wall of Beerwah. Marked ‘W.B’.
Up diagonally R over easy rock. Bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock. Zigzag to find the line of least resistance to rock face and the start of the climb proper. First pitch is marked with a white arrow.
1) 10m Up an easy gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the L. TB.
2) 35m Walk R-ward for about 20m, then up into bush and up to the base of a rock face. Climb a gully on the L. Up a couple of metres into another gully, trend diagonally out L and across to the next gully. Now up to just below a chimney. Up the chimney, past a slabby block and out to the L. Up L of a gum tree belay below a rough twin grooved gully.
3) 29m Up the L groove, cross over and in through the front door of ‘Shell Rock’. Belay near back door.
4) 17m Out the back door of ‘Shell Rock’ then up and into easy broken chimney. TB. Follow a very bushy track to the top of West Beerwah. Walk along the ridge, skirt L around the knob and across to the hikers route.
Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

Beginners To Advanced 27m 14 Start: 10m L of large, white, bent gumtree. Up slab to a large dish pocket. Climb past one BR up to the belay shared with The Phantom Walks. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 04/02/1996	The Phantom Walks 27m 15 Start: 3m R of Beginners To Advanced. A crazy glass-smooth slab start eases to a low angle knobby wall with a BR at 10m. Rap. Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 23/11/1995
Tide's Out 12m 12 Start: This good little route is to the R of The Phantom Walks. A smooth start, then up the natural line. At the top, move R to the belay for Chips Ahoy. Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, Alex McConnell 27/11/1995	Chips Ahoy 12m 13 Start: Starts opposite the bent gum tree. Up an obvious pocketed line to a steep, short headwall. Rap. Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 23/11/1995
Gambier II 30m 14 Start: R of Chips Ahoy and initialled ‘GII’. Up the worn water groove and into the big pockets. Continue up to TB. Has a reputation for very poor protection. Traverse L to the belay above The Phantom Walks. Greg Stead, Chris Meadows, Bob Anthony 08/06/1968	Gambier I 45m 14 Start: 1.5m R of Gambier II. Initialled ‘GI’. Up to small ledges. Up again past delicate moves and over to a corner. Up past big pockets and out L onto the slab. Up the corner and out L again to the flake. Up into a gully to a TB or traverse L to the belay above The Phantom Walks. FSA Rick White 06/01/1968
Medosa - 16 Start: On the upper tier above Gambier I and II. A two-pitch crack system with old pitons in places. John Tillock, Pete Giles 1966	First Come First Served 25m 14 Start: To the R of Gambier I under a tiny orange roof. Up slab until the little roof, then follow Gambier I's L-trending corner-crack until a good stance and a weakness in the arête allows a traverse R onto the slabby face. Up slab, using crack for protection. Move L up tiny, steep headwall on jugs to rap station. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 01/01/1996

Release The Hounds 25m 20 Start: To the R of First Come First Served. Goes through the overlap. Pass three BR’s before climbing eases to nice crack-protected face climbing. Move R at the top to the belay. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 14/01/1996	Ants Without Pants 25m 18 Start up a crack, which blanks out below a large dish up high. Some thin, exciting climbing past three BR's. Finish up the crack moving R at the top to the belay. Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 05/12/1995
Ants Without Pants VF - 19 Up original to the second BR, then traverse R on thin holds to another BR. Great face climbing on small holds provides a worthwhile and exciting variant finish. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 01/01/1996	Edward Scissor Hands 25m 23 If it were any thinner, it wouldn't exist. Start off the large fallen block with good moves to a wire-eating slot. Stand up above a small rooflet to clip the first FH. Diabolically thin face climbing past second FH to thin crack (wires). Climb easier ground past one more BR with an exciting finish up the slab to a rap station. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 18/02/1996
Mixed Emotions 25m 20 Start: 2m R of Edward Scissor Hands and just L of arête. Thin moves to BR then large SLCD. Committing moves on the face L of the arête just above the second BR to gain the crack-protected face. A medium hex will see you through to easier ground. Move L to belay. Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 12/03/1995	We Don't Do Thickshakes 40m 18 Start: In small corner to the R of Mixed Emotions. Crimp up corner to a large pocket jug. From a good stance motor past three BR’s with thin face holds to a huge bushy dish. A funky mantle move out of the dish will set you cruising to the top. Belay is shared by Drope Rag. Take hexes. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 26/01/1996
Drope Rag 40m 17 Start: 1.5m R of We Don't Do Thickshakes. This is the first of a trio of longer natural lines towards the end of the wall. Interesting moves up this natural line with a hard pull near the top. Thin holds, combined with pro that is not obvious adds to the excitement of this venture. Rap. Darrin Carter, Helen Conn 23/11/1995	Thanks For The Plum 45m 17 The middle crack of the trio - vegetated. Move up the obvious line until a bulge slows progress. Tricky moves up to a good stance. Move R and continue up and R to finish at the belay above Flight Of The Phoenix. Sean Smith, Darrin Carter 26/12/1995
Flight Of The Phoenix 40m 14 The last major crack at the end of the cliff. This goes up slightly R then steps L up slab. Continue up the shallow corner to the rap station. Alex McConnell, Helen Conn 26/11/1996	Surf's Up VS - 20 Start: Around the corner, R of Flight Of The Phoenix . A steep, boulder-problem start protected by a BR. Up short slab to join original at its first BR. Continue up original. Sean Smith, Darrin Carter 07/01/1996
Surf's Up 13m 17 Start: On the Mr Busy pillar up nice but short hand crack. Bridge up to a bulge with a BR to protect tricky moves. Pass another BR on nice face holds to the top. Rap. Darrin Carter, Sean Smith 07/01/1996	Mr Busy 10m 25 The R-hand arête with four FHs. Hard moves all the way. Rap. Darrin Carter 1999
Obscuria 15m 15 15m R of Mr Busy at obvious L-facing corner on main wall. Continue up second corner, then crack to TB. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 15/02/1997

Break Of Noon 198m 15 Start: Walk downhill from the Mr Busy pillar about 60m to a level earth ledge with 1m high boulders leaning against the cliff - here the water runnel running up the middle of a nice face is quite obvious. Take cord for all belays. 1) 40m Start up the obvious water runnel, step right at 30m, low angle with good pro to a BR out R. DBB. 2) 45m Traverse R to groove, follow this to a tiny steep wall with a large crack, belay off crack and piton at back of ledge. 3) 45m Continue up this line from ledge trending R to spacious ledge. DBB. 4) 8m Scramble up to piton on R. 5) 60m An easy exit pitch. Climb/scramble up left trending gulley to DBB just before thick bush. Route can be rapped off or walk trending L to tourist track. 1, 2, 3: Darrin Carter, John Hattink 22/12/1996 3 (extended), 4, 5: Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 30/07/2004	Scotch Mist 130m 17 Start: Starts about 150m R of Mr Busy pillar. Initialled ‘S.M’. 1) 50m Up the crack which is a little harder than it looks. Balancy moves passing a blank-looking section leads to a small ledge. Continue straight up until a detached column and a large block are found. This is the belay and a possible rap station. 2) 30m Move 2m R to a shallow crack and continue up to a large ledge. 3) 50m Head R until a vegetated gully/tunnel is located. Continue up here with interesting climbing heading for a large tree. 4) Bush-bash up and L to the tourist track and the descent. John Veasey, Rick White 06/01/1968
Bombastic 25m 18 Start: Supposedly a couple of hundred metres R of Thanksgiving Wall, 20m L of a large corner. Hard moves on flaky holds with poor gear makes this a bold lead. I have no illusions that this is a good description. Darrin Carter, Grant LeLievre 22/04/1998	Acoustic Motorbike 22m 15 Start: 12m R of Bombastic at the weakness 8m L of the large corner. Tricky move to start over slight bulge to good stance (FH). Move R then follow good holds to small stance. Move up wide groove to belay at small tree on L. Rap off slings. A second pitch (50m) to tree has been done but is not good. Darrin Carter, Grant LeLievre 22/04/1998
What's Cooking 20m 18 Start: Who knows where? Arête that steepens at half height. Follow the arête past a med SLCD, PR, and two BRs to a DBB. Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil 11/10/1998	Shiver Me Timbers 20m 19 A scary corner. Up chimney/corner that thins to hand/finger crack. Manoeuvre R around bulge to belay at small clump of bushes/weeds. Rap off these. Gareth Llewellin, Darrin Carter 10/07/1997
By Hook Or By Cook 60m 15 Start: Look for large roof at 8m. 1) 25m (15) 3m L of the roof a crack leans R. Follow this to rap station. 2) 35m (14) Step L and follow R-ward leaning fault to natural belay just below vegetation. A large tree with old rap sling is up and L about 15m Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil 11/10/1998	Too Many Cooks 60m 18 Start: About 50m R of By Hook Or By Cook at highest point of base, near large gum tree with hefty dead limb. Double ropes recommended. Start up L-arcing crack or up blocky ramp to 5m. Follow corner past sparse pro and low crux to ledge (optional belay). Continue up seams with good pro to below very large detached flake at ¾ height. Step carefully up into fault on L of flake and follow good handrail (great gear) out R to fault in headwall directly above the flake. Up this easing line to ledge and natural belay. Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil 11/10/1998
West Beerwah 90m 10 Start: Starts about 300m R of Mr Busy pillar at the southern end of the west wall of Beerwah. Marked ‘W.B’. Up diagonally R over easy rock. Bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock. Zigzag to find the line of least resistance to rock face and the start of the climb proper. First pitch is marked with a white arrow. 1) 10m Up an easy gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the L. TB. 2) 35m Walk R-ward for about 20m, then up into bush and up to the base of a rock face. Climb a gully on the L. Up a couple of metres into another gully, trend diagonally out L and across to the next gully. Now up to just below a chimney. Up the chimney, past a slabby block and out to the L. Up L of a gum tree belay below a rough twin grooved gully. 3) 29m Up the L groove, cross over and in through the front door of ‘Shell Rock’. Belay near back door. 4) 17m Out the back door of ‘Shell Rock’ then up and into easy broken chimney. TB. Follow a very bushy track to the top of West Beerwah. Walk along the ridge, skirt L around the knob and across to the hikers route. Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

Emma's Dilemma 15m 13 Up the clean, slabby crackline at the very R-hand end of the buttress to a nut belay. Walk off. Alexis Bull, Emma Greenbank 18/09/1996	Bolts And Chips But No Mushy Peas 15m 14 Start: On R of buttress. Start up chimney that is much better than it looks to ledge. Climb the perfect parallel hand crack above to good nut belay. Walk off. Stuart Lancaster, Sean Smith 18/09/1996
Bully's Bulge 15m 16 Up a steep crack on the L side of the outcrop. Trend L to a nut belay. Walk off. Alexis Bull, Emma Greenbank 18/09/1996