A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - Short Cool Ones Wall, Mt Beerwah

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Short Cool Ones Wall, Mt Beerwah

Approx 150m to the L of where the tourist track meets the rock apron is a series of nice, low-angled slabs, occasionally capped by small roofs at 20m. The routes in this section were all led onsight, placing any bolts that were required on lead. They are serious routes with committing runouts at times. Please respect this style if adding new routes to the area. The routes are described R to L. They are in order as you walk L from the tourist track.

I'll Think Of Something Else I'll Think Of Something Else 25m 8
Start: About 5m R of I'll Think Of Something below vague R facing corner and grasstuft about 12m up. Gear is spaced but adequate. Step R at grasstuft for gear, up trending L and back into crackline, up this till you can traverse L to ITOS chains.
Mark Gamble, Jack Williams 21/10/2007

Walk downhill from the tourist track until the track starts to rise. These next two routes begin on the L side of the water gully which forms the lowest point in the track.

I'll Think Of Something 25m 12
Climbs through tiny twin, facing corners. Interesting climbing passing good gear placements along the way heading for a small bushy stance and a DBB. Rap.
John Hattink, Darrin Carter 28/03/1998

What A Dish 25m 10
Start: 5m L of I'll Think Of Something. Marked 'WAD'.
Good easy climbing with plenty of gear will see you to the DBB. Rap.
Darrin Carter, John Hattink

The following routes are capped by small roofs. The short routes all descend via the chain on the tree at the top of Barracuda.

Avenger 90m 10
Start: About 10m L of What A Dish. Marked 'A'. Walking L from the tourist track, this route is located when the roofs begin to appear at 20m. Reputation for poor protection.
1) 35m Up slab into small corner (pro). Up slab above and through roof. Trend R to a ledge. TB.
2) 45m Up past the roof and onto the slabs. Continue onto easier country.
Rob Staszewski, Clive Heckenberg 21/03/1971

Acquitted 15m 8
Start: At lichenous, featured slab 4m L of Avenger.
Up slab (poor pro) to short corner at 10m. Good gear up this to roof. Step L and up to natural belay beneath main roofs. Traverse L 15m to shared chains behind tree. Rap.
Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 21/08/1999

Order In The Court 15m 11
Start: 2m L of Acquitted at pockets beneath smooth, R-facing corner.
A stress-free jaunt providing good, varied climbing. Up pockets to corner, then good gear up this to roof. Slightly R to continue up corner and thin crack to natural belay. Traverse L 15m to shared chains behind tree. Rap.
Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 21/08/1999

Jury's Out 15m 15
Start: 3m L of Order In The Court just R of Third Degree's L-facing corner.
Directly up hairline seam for 8m to rooflet (large SLCD slot). Straight through this (crux), then slab to natural belay. Traverse L 10m to shared chains behind tree. Rap.
Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 21/08/1999

Third Degree 20m 15
Start: At the L-facing corner crack 0.5m L of Jury's Out.
Layback the corner to a weirdly pocketed (Monaco Bar?) section just beneath an overhang. Traverse L and breach the overhang via the offhand crack. Up easily, traversing L to the shared chains behind tree. Rap.
Sean Smith, John Hattink 16/02/1997

Don't Scratch My New Ute 90m 18
Start: At slab 4m L of Third Degree.
1) 35m Up slab to a good wire. Thin face climbing to gain the hand crack and up the slab to the roof section. Hard move through roof to great stance and a welcome BR. Excellent face climbing eases to slab with BR and large SLCD belay.
2) 45m Follow R-trending line up past small bulge to vegetated ledge system. Sparse protection on this pitch to belay at blocks. Traverse/walk along the vegetated ledge to find rap sling above the rap station in Proven Guilty.
Darrin Carter, John Hattink 23/02/1997

Sharks Patrol These Waters 15m 17
Start: 1.5m L of Don't Scratch My New Ute.
This’ll never be a popular lead! Up on thin footholds to a small bulge with small face holds. A crucial #1 cam placement here (about 7-8m up), a hard move to a good foothold. Continue up easier terrain to jugs. Shared chains behind tree. Rap. The first ascent was soloed onsight with a trailed rope for the second.
FSA Darrin Carter 23/02/1997

Barracuda 15m 15
Start: Directly below the belay tree, and 1.5m L of Sharks Patrol These Waters. Marked 'B'.
A shallow seam and sloping footholds lead to a crucial #2 alien placement. Climb to the jug and a medium hex before running it out easily to the shared chains behind tree. Rap.
John Hattink, Darrin Carter 23/02/1997

Mistaken Identity 15m 15
Start: 1m L of Barracuda.
A shallow corner and face. Place nests of very marginal gear and climb without falling to the shared chains behind tree. Rap.
Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin 16/02/1997

Lady With The Handbag 15m 10
Start: Between MI and Mr L.
Up juggy face to small corner. Up to larger cracks below roof, then traverse off R to Barracuda's chains. Adequate pro.
Terry Svingen, Lillian Sando 07/01/2007

Mr Lazyboots 85m 16
Start: At face 4m L of Mistaken Identity. Marked 'Mr.L'.
1) 20m Climb the face with a crack/seam leading the way. Protection is exciting but adequate. Traverse slightly beneath the roofs to a good nut belay.
2) 50m A rope stretcher. Breach the overhang placing good gear in a finger/hand crack. Continue delicately up the slabs with good albeit spaced protection to a nut belay with a medium hex and medium wires.
3) 15m Traverse easily L to the BB above Proven Guilty.
Pitch 1: Darrin Carter, John Hattink 13/02/1997
Pitch 2: Sean Smith, John Hattink 16/02/1997

The following routes are not capped by roofs.

The Artful Dodger 70m 13
Start: 7m L of Mr Lazyboots. Marked 'AD'.
1) 50m Up shallow groove passing large overlap. Continue up the juggy wall to a good stance, head R up a small corner/overlap system before overcoming a short, smooth slab section that forms the crux. Follow the easing line to a large round pocket with bolt. Continue up the crack/pocket system to belay at 50m off gear.
2) 20m Continue up the crack/pocket system to DBB on sloping ledge about 20m up.
Darrin Carter, John Hattink 23/02/1997

Dark And Stormy 60m 15
Start: 2m L of The Artful Dodger. Marked 'DAS'
1) 35m Climb the crack up L side of overlap placing gear until it runs out. Climb the thin face passing a welcome fixed PR to a good stance. Continue up to an excellent natural belay.
2) 25m Continue up the crack/pocket system before traversing L to the BB above Proven Guilty.
Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin (alt) 16/02/1997

Assumed Innocent 60m 16
Start: 3m L of Dark And Stormy at the attractive pocketed crack. Marked 'AI'.
1) 30m Hard moves though the face to gain the crack proper. Race up the crack dropping in wires and hexes until a grassy bowl is reached beneath a blank corner. Continue up the line on spaced protection to gain the BB.
2) 30m From the belay, traverse R the gain the next crack. Move up placing sometimes spaced but always good protection to avoid the heat. When the crack peters, traverse L to a BB above Proven Guilty. The belay at 30m can be avoided with a 60m lead rope.
Sean Smith, Darrin Carter 13/02/1997

Proven Guilty 60m 13
Start: 4m L of Assumed Innocent up weakness to a low BR. Marked 'PG'.
1) 30m Nice face climbing up the obvious line until you reach a stance. Move 3m R to BB in Assumed Innocent.
2) 30m Move back L and into the line again with marginal protection until a pocket and a BR leap out at you. Then up to stance through bulge with committing slab finish to BB. The belay at 30m can be avoided with a 60m lead rope.
Darrin Carter, John Hattink 10/02/1997

Wandering Madness 60m 14
Start: 10m L of Proven Guilty at knobby face.
1) 35m Climb the face to the crack/corner system. Continue up this, moving through the occasional steep section with mostly good holds and excellent protection to a belay with medium hexes and a medium SLCD.
2) 25m Climb up, wandering a little to follow the protection until the face blanks out. Place a big wire and escape R to the BB above Proven Guilty.
Sean Smith, Simon Moser (alt) 23/02/1997

Short Circuit 60m 14
Start: About 5m L of WM and 15m L of Proven Guilty below bulge and good looking line. Marked 'SC'.
1) 45m Good gear up line to BR (runout start). Up through overlap with good gear to DBB.
2) 15m Thin and balancy moves (no gear) across the slab on the R (5-6m), step down to diagonal crack and gear, then up the last few metres of Proven Guilty.
Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman 25/01/2003

Columbian Necktie 95m 17
Start: 4m L of Wandering Madness.
1) 45m Climb the featured slab 1.5m R of Burke's Backyard's corner. Head up the obvious holds to a good stance. Motor up to another good stance and a welcome BR. Follow the next two BR’s slightly R to an interesting bulge (DBB).
2) 40m Move R below overlap for about 5m until you find some gear. Head up a thin line passing a few pockets aiming for the small, shallow, but obvious corner system up high. Surmount this and sigh with relief as you reach a DBB. Rap.
Darrin Carter, John Hattink 09/08/1998

Burke's Backyard 80m 13
Start: 1.5m L of Columbian Necktie at R-facing corner. Marked 'BB'.
1) 40m Stroll up the slab to reach the corner proper, placing gear when you can. Bridge a little over tiny bulge and follow slab to a good stance below a bunch of bushes. Medium gear for belay.
2) 40m Leave the belay and follow the closed overlap and clip the welcome PR. A little gear follows as you head for the roof. Take this obstruction on the R-hand side with big holds. Pull through and tip toe to DBB. 30m rap to Weight Watcher's chains.
John Hattink, Darrin Carter (alt) 28/03/1998

Weight Watchers 40m 17
Start: 4m to the L of Burke's Backyard.
Onto small ledge then take very shallow corner heading for a BR on your L. Layaway R and scamper up to roof/bulge and another BR. Pull through this and follow another shallow corner on the R to the DBB. Rap.
Kent Jenson, Darrin Carter 23/03/1998

Drop Zone 75m 14
Start: 3m to the L of Weight Watchers at another shallow, pockety, L-tending corner.
1) 40m An obvious line with open pockets and dishes which leads through a small bulge. Excellent pro can be found while you cruise to the DBB as for Weight Watchers.
2) 35m Leave the security of stainless, place small gear under overlap and march up the 'flying flakes' pitch with only psychological protection until you reach the DBB. Rap.
Darrin Carter, Kent Jenson 23/03/1998

Drop Zone V 40m 15
Follow original 'till small rooflet, move L to next obvious line, up this with good gear 'till the line eases, move L to belay as for Blackout on natural gear, then finish up p2 of Blackout, or alternately, traverse R to DBB on Weight Watchers.
Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 09/10/2004

Blackout 85m 16
Start: 3m L of Drop Zone and 3m R of short chimney/shaft which is opposite big white gum. Marked 'B'.
1) 40m Follow the L-trending line on good holds with spaced pro. Move L a little to a tricky move on small knobs. Cruise the easing line until you reach a small vertical crack. Belay.
2) 45m Leave the belay heading straight up for the white streaks on the slab with minimal gear. Once at bushes move along to the R and discover DBB. Rap off.
Darrin Carter, Kent Jenson 28/03/1998

Cut Short 18m 18
Start: At the wide crack.
Bridge to make it enjoyable into pockets. Tricky and funky gear small - medium wires, cams and hexes. Hard layaway move - committing - stand up and follow three BR’s to chain belay. A tribute to the late Chris Mann.
Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter 12/2003

Guillotine 15m 15
Start: Approx 8m to the R of Gun Control beside a wide crack (Cut Short) at ground level. Marked 'G'.
Obvious proud featured slab with sharp blade of rock at the top. Two BR's, one FH, small-medium wires. DBB.
Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 18/01/2003

Gun Control 260m 14
Start: About 17m L of Blackout is a line of big, obvious pockets.
1) 40m Up pockets easily to slab. Delicately up this to belay on vegetated ledge at belay/rap chains.
2) 48m Traverse R 2m to weakness. Breach the overhang and climb the face above passing BR’s to a good nut at a stance just beneath a vegetated ledge. Keep on slabbing for 15m to DBB. The climbing from now on is a loose bush bash with occasional sections of good rock.
3) 30m Walk L along ledge to rock slab. Traverse straight L across aiming for trees at base of corner (belay). Loose rock abounds on this pitch.
4) 35m Up into a big corner. Slab up this on great rock and good protection to scree slope top and finally TB.
5) 25m From this ledge, two options are available. To escape (recommended), traverse R across scree slope for about 150m to reach the Hikers Route. Alternatively scramble up for 50m to reach big red cave and pitch six.
6) Up obvious chimney just R of red cave. Some scungy rock and poor protection but overall comfortable chimneying. TB.
6 - alt) 25m (16) This variant was done because the chimney was wet and coated with green slime. Start up chimney to good hex placement, step R on small ledge then straight up with no pro on small holds to TB.
Continue up ridge to exposed final summit approach.
Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, Marten Blumen 04/08/1996 (Blumen led pitch 3, Monteith led all others). p6 variant: Wayne Meith, Craig Molloy 13/03/2004

10m L of Gun Control is a roof at 5m. The next route is located 10m L of this roof, down the hill.

Eye On Crime 30m 14
Watch the thieves hit your car from the excellent vantage at the belay. Start just L of large block on ground. Up clean slab passing a series of large, spaced pockets which lead to easy ground. Once here, meander upwards trending L to a good natural pro belay at a block-stance 10m below and 10m R of the large, main roofs. Downclimb down and R (facing out) 20m to chains above Entrapment. Rap.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 19/09/1999

Super Size Me 15m 15
Start: 3m R of Entrapment.
BR's to DBB.
Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, Christian Jones 29/05/2004

Entrapment 15m 19
Start: The shallow R-facing corner 8m L of Eye On Crime.
Boulder the slab to jug (RB). Steep climbing up the corner past two more RBs gives gear and a rest before the chains. Rap.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 19/09/1999

Shanny 15m 21
Start: 1m L of Entrapment.
Rings to DBB.
Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter 29/05/2004

Two And A Half Squirts 15m 21
Start: 2m L of Shanny.
Five rings to rap station.
Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter 10/04/2004

Chocolates VS 18m 13
Start: 3m R of original start up low angle arête past two BR’s to great horizontal move into original line. Up to DBB.
Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 24/04/2004

Chocolates 18m 16
Start: 10m L of Entrapment.
Natural line on L side of buttress. Fantastic moves for the grade. Take RP's. One BR at top. Rap station.
Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 10/04/2004

The next climbs are located about 60m further down the hill.

Waterboy 45m 14
To the R of Just Juice, start at crack/slab with tricky move up to jug, then along with good gear following the line until good stance (BR). Straight past BR on good holds to med wire on R, then follow LLR to top. Has been climbed direct up the slab (same grade but scarier).
Darrin Carter, Brett Jewel 29/03/1999

Just Juice 145m 19
Start: Near large blocks on the ground R of a large depression/gully.
1) 45m A thin line heading for a R-facing corner in the headwall (above roof). Up the steepish twin seams without much gear to a large grass pocket. Continue to a good stance as the protection gets better. Trend R as the angle eases off to the BB below roof.
2) 50m Confront the crux roof straight off the belay to get established in the corner above with three FH’s which gives well protected and interesting climbing to a good stance. Move past gear placements to the L and sneak your way up over loose flakes on the slab (trending L) to a small tree and BB on slab.
3) 50m Leave the belay and head straight up the slab. Head for a thin-looking crack, which provides the only protection for the pitch. Race up the dramatically easier slabs to a large terrace. TB with rap slings and rap rings. Descend by abseiling the route.
Pitch 1: Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin 08/01/1997
Pitch 2 & 3: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith (alt)

Time On Your Hands 50m 14
Start: To the L of Just Juice down in the depression on the slab with small knobs and edges.
Well-featured up to the jug, continue with ease to tree, then up line with thinning protection. Traverse R to the first belay of Just Juice. This can be broken into two pitches at the tree.
Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin 08/01/1997

Breakfast At Bobo's 45m 19
1) 45m 19 Two BR’s up slab with runout slab crux at end of pitch. Finishes at chains. If doing second pitch, move R to two FH’s at hard, roof headwall.
2) (crux - 24+?) Project.
Darrin Carter 29/03/1999

Avenger 90m 10 Start: About 10m L of What A Dish. Marked 'A'. Walking L from the tourist track, this route is located when the roofs begin to appear at 20m. Reputation for poor protection. 1) 35m Up slab into small corner (pro). Up slab above and through roof. Trend R to a ledge. TB. 2) 45m Up past the roof and onto the slabs. Continue onto easier country. Rob Staszewski, Clive Heckenberg 21/03/1971	Acquitted 15m 8 Start: At lichenous, featured slab 4m L of Avenger. Up slab (poor pro) to short corner at 10m. Good gear up this to roof. Step L and up to natural belay beneath main roofs. Traverse L 15m to shared chains behind tree. Rap. Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 21/08/1999
Order In The Court 15m 11 Start: 2m L of Acquitted at pockets beneath smooth, R-facing corner. A stress-free jaunt providing good, varied climbing. Up pockets to corner, then good gear up this to roof. Slightly R to continue up corner and thin crack to natural belay. Traverse L 15m to shared chains behind tree. Rap. Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 21/08/1999	Jury's Out 15m 15 Start: 3m L of Order In The Court just R of Third Degree's L-facing corner. Directly up hairline seam for 8m to rooflet (large SLCD slot). Straight through this (crux), then slab to natural belay. Traverse L 10m to shared chains behind tree. Rap. Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 21/08/1999
Third Degree 20m 15 Start: At the L-facing corner crack 0.5m L of Jury's Out. Layback the corner to a weirdly pocketed (Monaco Bar?) section just beneath an overhang. Traverse L and breach the overhang via the offhand crack. Up easily, traversing L to the shared chains behind tree. Rap. Sean Smith, John Hattink 16/02/1997	Don't Scratch My New Ute 90m 18 Start: At slab 4m L of Third Degree. 1) 35m Up slab to a good wire. Thin face climbing to gain the hand crack and up the slab to the roof section. Hard move through roof to great stance and a welcome BR. Excellent face climbing eases to slab with BR and large SLCD belay. 2) 45m Follow R-trending line up past small bulge to vegetated ledge system. Sparse protection on this pitch to belay at blocks. Traverse/walk along the vegetated ledge to find rap sling above the rap station in Proven Guilty. Darrin Carter, John Hattink 23/02/1997
Sharks Patrol These Waters 15m 17 Start: 1.5m L of Don't Scratch My New Ute. This’ll never be a popular lead! Up on thin footholds to a small bulge with small face holds. A crucial #1 cam placement here (about 7-8m up), a hard move to a good foothold. Continue up easier terrain to jugs. Shared chains behind tree. Rap. The first ascent was soloed onsight with a trailed rope for the second. FSA Darrin Carter 23/02/1997	Barracuda 15m 15 Start: Directly below the belay tree, and 1.5m L of Sharks Patrol These Waters. Marked 'B'. A shallow seam and sloping footholds lead to a crucial #2 alien placement. Climb to the jug and a medium hex before running it out easily to the shared chains behind tree. Rap. John Hattink, Darrin Carter 23/02/1997
Mistaken Identity 15m 15 Start: 1m L of Barracuda. A shallow corner and face. Place nests of very marginal gear and climb without falling to the shared chains behind tree. Rap. Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin 16/02/1997	Lady With The Handbag 15m 10 Start: Between MI and Mr L. Up juggy face to small corner. Up to larger cracks below roof, then traverse off R to Barracuda's chains. Adequate pro. Terry Svingen, Lillian Sando 07/01/2007
Mr Lazyboots 85m 16 Start: At face 4m L of Mistaken Identity. Marked 'Mr.L'. 1) 20m Climb the face with a crack/seam leading the way. Protection is exciting but adequate. Traverse slightly beneath the roofs to a good nut belay. 2) 50m A rope stretcher. Breach the overhang placing good gear in a finger/hand crack. Continue delicately up the slabs with good albeit spaced protection to a nut belay with a medium hex and medium wires. 3) 15m Traverse easily L to the BB above Proven Guilty. Pitch 1: Darrin Carter, John Hattink 13/02/1997 Pitch 2: Sean Smith, John Hattink 16/02/1997

The Artful Dodger 70m 13 Start: 7m L of Mr Lazyboots. Marked 'AD'. 1) 50m Up shallow groove passing large overlap. Continue up the juggy wall to a good stance, head R up a small corner/overlap system before overcoming a short, smooth slab section that forms the crux. Follow the easing line to a large round pocket with bolt. Continue up the crack/pocket system to belay at 50m off gear. 2) 20m Continue up the crack/pocket system to DBB on sloping ledge about 20m up. Darrin Carter, John Hattink 23/02/1997	Dark And Stormy 60m 15 Start: 2m L of The Artful Dodger. Marked 'DAS' 1) 35m Climb the crack up L side of overlap placing gear until it runs out. Climb the thin face passing a welcome fixed PR to a good stance. Continue up to an excellent natural belay. 2) 25m Continue up the crack/pocket system before traversing L to the BB above Proven Guilty. Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin (alt) 16/02/1997
Assumed Innocent 60m 16 Start: 3m L of Dark And Stormy at the attractive pocketed crack. Marked 'AI'. 1) 30m Hard moves though the face to gain the crack proper. Race up the crack dropping in wires and hexes until a grassy bowl is reached beneath a blank corner. Continue up the line on spaced protection to gain the BB. 2) 30m From the belay, traverse R the gain the next crack. Move up placing sometimes spaced but always good protection to avoid the heat. When the crack peters, traverse L to a BB above Proven Guilty. The belay at 30m can be avoided with a 60m lead rope. Sean Smith, Darrin Carter 13/02/1997	Proven Guilty 60m 13 Start: 4m L of Assumed Innocent up weakness to a low BR. Marked 'PG'. 1) 30m Nice face climbing up the obvious line until you reach a stance. Move 3m R to BB in Assumed Innocent. 2) 30m Move back L and into the line again with marginal protection until a pocket and a BR leap out at you. Then up to stance through bulge with committing slab finish to BB. The belay at 30m can be avoided with a 60m lead rope. Darrin Carter, John Hattink 10/02/1997
Wandering Madness 60m 14 Start: 10m L of Proven Guilty at knobby face. 1) 35m Climb the face to the crack/corner system. Continue up this, moving through the occasional steep section with mostly good holds and excellent protection to a belay with medium hexes and a medium SLCD. 2) 25m Climb up, wandering a little to follow the protection until the face blanks out. Place a big wire and escape R to the BB above Proven Guilty. Sean Smith, Simon Moser (alt) 23/02/1997	Short Circuit 60m 14 Start: About 5m L of WM and 15m L of Proven Guilty below bulge and good looking line. Marked 'SC'. 1) 45m Good gear up line to BR (runout start). Up through overlap with good gear to DBB. 2) 15m Thin and balancy moves (no gear) across the slab on the R (5-6m), step down to diagonal crack and gear, then up the last few metres of Proven Guilty. Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman 25/01/2003
Columbian Necktie 95m 17 Start: 4m L of Wandering Madness. 1) 45m Climb the featured slab 1.5m R of Burke's Backyard's corner. Head up the obvious holds to a good stance. Motor up to another good stance and a welcome BR. Follow the next two BR’s slightly R to an interesting bulge (DBB). 2) 40m Move R below overlap for about 5m until you find some gear. Head up a thin line passing a few pockets aiming for the small, shallow, but obvious corner system up high. Surmount this and sigh with relief as you reach a DBB. Rap. Darrin Carter, John Hattink 09/08/1998	Burke's Backyard 80m 13 Start: 1.5m L of Columbian Necktie at R-facing corner. Marked 'BB'. 1) 40m Stroll up the slab to reach the corner proper, placing gear when you can. Bridge a little over tiny bulge and follow slab to a good stance below a bunch of bushes. Medium gear for belay. 2) 40m Leave the belay and follow the closed overlap and clip the welcome PR. A little gear follows as you head for the roof. Take this obstruction on the R-hand side with big holds. Pull through and tip toe to DBB. 30m rap to Weight Watcher's chains. John Hattink, Darrin Carter (alt) 28/03/1998
Weight Watchers 40m 17 Start: 4m to the L of Burke's Backyard. Onto small ledge then take very shallow corner heading for a BR on your L. Layaway R and scamper up to roof/bulge and another BR. Pull through this and follow another shallow corner on the R to the DBB. Rap. Kent Jenson, Darrin Carter 23/03/1998	Drop Zone 75m 14 Start: 3m to the L of Weight Watchers at another shallow, pockety, L-tending corner. 1) 40m An obvious line with open pockets and dishes which leads through a small bulge. Excellent pro can be found while you cruise to the DBB as for Weight Watchers. 2) 35m Leave the security of stainless, place small gear under overlap and march up the 'flying flakes' pitch with only psychological protection until you reach the DBB. Rap. Darrin Carter, Kent Jenson 23/03/1998
Drop Zone V 40m 15 Follow original 'till small rooflet, move L to next obvious line, up this with good gear 'till the line eases, move L to belay as for Blackout on natural gear, then finish up p2 of Blackout, or alternately, traverse R to DBB on Weight Watchers. Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 09/10/2004	Blackout 85m 16 Start: 3m L of Drop Zone and 3m R of short chimney/shaft which is opposite big white gum. Marked 'B'. 1) 40m Follow the L-trending line on good holds with spaced pro. Move L a little to a tricky move on small knobs. Cruise the easing line until you reach a small vertical crack. Belay. 2) 45m Leave the belay heading straight up for the white streaks on the slab with minimal gear. Once at bushes move along to the R and discover DBB. Rap off. Darrin Carter, Kent Jenson 28/03/1998
Cut Short 18m 18 Start: At the wide crack. Bridge to make it enjoyable into pockets. Tricky and funky gear small - medium wires, cams and hexes. Hard layaway move - committing - stand up and follow three BR’s to chain belay. A tribute to the late Chris Mann. Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter 12/2003	Guillotine 15m 15 Start: Approx 8m to the R of Gun Control beside a wide crack (Cut Short) at ground level. Marked 'G'. Obvious proud featured slab with sharp blade of rock at the top. Two BR's, one FH, small-medium wires. DBB. Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 18/01/2003
Gun Control 260m 14 Start: About 17m L of Blackout is a line of big, obvious pockets. 1) 40m Up pockets easily to slab. Delicately up this to belay on vegetated ledge at belay/rap chains. 2) 48m Traverse R 2m to weakness. Breach the overhang and climb the face above passing BR’s to a good nut at a stance just beneath a vegetated ledge. Keep on slabbing for 15m to DBB. The climbing from now on is a loose bush bash with occasional sections of good rock. 3) 30m Walk L along ledge to rock slab. Traverse straight L across aiming for trees at base of corner (belay). Loose rock abounds on this pitch. 4) 35m Up into a big corner. Slab up this on great rock and good protection to scree slope top and finally TB. 5) 25m From this ledge, two options are available. To escape (recommended), traverse R across scree slope for about 150m to reach the Hikers Route. Alternatively scramble up for 50m to reach big red cave and pitch six. 6) Up obvious chimney just R of red cave. Some scungy rock and poor protection but overall comfortable chimneying. TB. 6 - alt) 25m (16) This variant was done because the chimney was wet and coated with green slime. Start up chimney to good hex placement, step R on small ledge then straight up with no pro on small holds to TB. Continue up ridge to exposed final summit approach. Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, Marten Blumen 04/08/1996 (Blumen led pitch 3, Monteith led all others). p6 variant: Wayne Meith, Craig Molloy 13/03/2004

Eye On Crime 30m 14 Watch the thieves hit your car from the excellent vantage at the belay. Start just L of large block on ground. Up clean slab passing a series of large, spaced pockets which lead to easy ground. Once here, meander upwards trending L to a good natural pro belay at a block-stance 10m below and 10m R of the large, main roofs. Downclimb down and R (facing out) 20m to chains above Entrapment. Rap. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 19/09/1999	Super Size Me 15m 15 Start: 3m R of Entrapment. BR's to DBB. Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, Christian Jones 29/05/2004
Entrapment 15m 19 Start: The shallow R-facing corner 8m L of Eye On Crime. Boulder the slab to jug (RB). Steep climbing up the corner past two more RBs gives gear and a rest before the chains. Rap. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 19/09/1999	Shanny 15m 21 Start: 1m L of Entrapment. Rings to DBB. Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter 29/05/2004
Two And A Half Squirts 15m 21 Start: 2m L of Shanny. Five rings to rap station. Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter 10/04/2004	Chocolates VS 18m 13 Start: 3m R of original start up low angle arête past two BR’s to great horizontal move into original line. Up to DBB. Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 24/04/2004
Chocolates 18m 16 Start: 10m L of Entrapment. Natural line on L side of buttress. Fantastic moves for the grade. Take RP's. One BR at top. Rap station. Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 10/04/2004