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Other Routes, Mt Beerwah

Many of these routes represent the older, longer routes that are scattered around the mountain. It is important to note that tree belays described may not exist due to a large fire than covered the mountain in recent times. Routes are listed from L to R.

Hiker's Route 360m -
This is the normal and easiest route to the summit. It begins directly beneath the prominent overhang (the Organ Pipes) on the N face. Take the walking track from the picnic area to the base of the rock face. Follow the well worn walking track R-wards up to the top of a rise, and the start of the route - a worn, orange slab. Scramble up the polished rock slab, which was harder in the early days before vandals chipped steps into it with rock hammers. This is the hardest section of the route. Follow the well-worn track and the white paint marks on to and through the scrub area under the Organ Pipes. Turn R and follow the track out and around onto the western side, then up to the summit. A variant exists which traverses L under the organ pipes then ascends a prominent gully to the NE ridge, and on to the summit.
Andrew Petrie, John Petrie 1830s

North East Beerwah 340m 9
Start: Midway up the R side of the large slab that bridges the overhangs on the North East side of Beerwah. Marked ‘N.E.B’.
1) 25m Diagonally L across the slab, then up to a Steelwood TB.
2) 30m Up the slab and into the wide slabby gully. Climb the crack into the R-hand side of the gully and up to a TB.
3) 50m Traverse R-ward along to a dirt ledge, then up easy slab. Zigzag to find the line of least resistance. Continue up the pleasant easy slab. Keep to the L of the large boulder-like rock with a large white streak. Trend R, and up the slab.
Continue up the ridge above the boulder rock, and on up to the summit. This route takes you past the upper ‘Organ Pipes’ area.
Unknown

East Beerwah 350m 1
Start: At the base of the rock face on the E side of Beerwah, in line with Mt Coonowrin.
Up a wide gully, then easy slabs with many Steelwood trees. Follow the LLR up the slabs and through the bush to a cave. Up the slab out the R-hand side of the cave. Back L above the cave, then up a long slope covered in semi-dense bush. Up easy slabs to the base of a buttress resembling the Organ Pipes. Move L and around onto easy, weather-worn slabs, and up above the buttress. Walk up the rocky slope above the buttress. Continue up rocky slope interspersed with low shrubs to a ridge and some rather vertigo-inducing scenery. Follow this ridge to the top.
Unknown

The next routes are on Beerwah’s south face. Information to help you locate them is not available. They are hopefully listed from L to R, but don’t expect to find them easily.

Pilgrim’s Progress 260m 13
Start: From a point a little to the R of a series of overhangs, slightly behind a prominent dead tree at the L-hand end of the S wall.
This climb is a direct route to the lower shoulder. From the start, an ascending traverse L is made to a large belvedere. Climb the corner to the L of the ledge. An awkward overhang is surmounted and the nose of the buttress circumvented. A steep wall then leads to a broad sloping ledge, above this a wall is climbed to a timbered shelf. From this point, ascend a series of easy slabs in the direction of the now visible 'Garden of Eden' cave. A series of steep holdless slabs lead into the cave. Traverse from the cave on steep slabs to the L into a small groove which leads to a timbered ledge. Ascend a steep gully to Shell Rock (a prominent outcrop with a hole through the centre). A scramble over easier ground leads to the shoulder.
W. Peascod, N. Lamb, D Groom 1960s

Mopoke Slabs 260m 13
Start: The start of this climb is about 400m to the R of Pilgrim’s Progress and is supposedly marked by a large grey gum with a heavy top and a badly burnt base. Who knows if it's still there.
Two short pitches traverse to the L and a steep 20m wall is climbed directly to a veranda of shrubbery. The climbing continues until a series of small overhangs are reached. Traverse R and then continue up the weathered walls until a short traverse L leads to the SW shoulder.
W. Peascod, N. Lamb, L. Upfold 1960s

Why Not 350m 13
Start: Located on the L of the ridge on the south face.
The first four pitches are up a wall on good rock, then 200m of mank and bush to the middle cliffs. The next four pitches are up from a small pinnacle against the face - up and over a small overhang and into a crack. Up the crack until it rises to a huge overhang. Traverse R onto the R wall and across to another crack and up. The last four pitches are clean climbing on the steep ribs that lead to the top.
Les Wood, Donn Groom 03/04/1966

Slip Knot 350m 10
Start: Two ridges west of the Central Rib, at the base of the large, clean wall on the south face.
Up L to a sloping ledge. Traverse L-ward under an overhang to a grassy ledge. Up a rather water-worn groove to the R of a corner. Up R-ward over slabs to a projecting rock, R of an overhang. Up the slabs below the overhang and then up the groove and into a cave. Out of the cave to a crack on the L of an overhang.
Les Wood, Donn Groom, Brian Driscoll 03/04/1966

Central Rib 400m 12
Start: About 500m R of Mopoke Slabs. The climb commences just to the L of 'Barrier Wall'.
Follows up a series of slabs until the veranda is reached. Traverse to the R for about 30m until a large prominent rib bounding the south and east faces is reached. A difficult chimney is surmounted which leads to the crest of the rib. 115m of climbing on the face of this immense rib leads to a belt of scrub below the summit pyramid. The final wall is well provided in knobbly excrescences and a direct route is followed over this wall to the summit.
J. Stephenson, G. Broadbent, N. Lamb 26/01/1953


This page was last updated Tuesday, 31 March 2009.
Copyright © 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Lee Cujes