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Mt Tibrogargan

Mt Tibrogargan hosts a wealth of varied climbing. The special thing about Tibro is that it is vast enough to be able to accommodate all styles of rockclimbing, from the ye olde routes of yore, established with piton and hammer, to the more modern routes which may be trad, mixed, or sport. These styles can happily coexist without treading on each others toes, which adds to the overall diversity of the climbing experience.

A note on grading
The grading of routes on Mt Tibrogargan varies greatly. Many of the early routes (pre 1980) tend to be mighty harsh for the grade. The shorter modern routes are graded more accurately. This guide has upgraded many of the early routes in an attempt to remedy this. However, it is recommended that all climbers unfamiliar to Tibro multipitches climb some easier routes (grade < 10) before progressing to the harder ones.

How to get to the carpark
Travelling north, after taking the Glasshouse Mountains Tourist Route off the Bruce Highway, drive for 6.5 km to a L turn marked 'Forestry Nursery' (before reaching the turn-off for the Glasshouse Township). Take it. Drive L under the railway bridge, then up R and along the dirt track past the nursery on your R, then take the signposted L-turn towards the mountain (sandy dirt track). You'll pass two more brown and yellow National Park signs saying ‘Mt Tibrogargan’ before reaching a carpark on the L (1.3km from the main road turnoff).

How to get to the rock
There are several access options depending on which sector you wish to climb at.

• Slider access
From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 150m or so until it forks. Take the L branch and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. After a second much smaller rock paving, look for a small cairned foot track running R up towards the mountain. Take this and follow it for eight minutes up to the bottom of Lower Slider Wall.

• Celestial Wall access
From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 150m or so until it forks. Take the L branch and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at Heliosphere on Celestial Wall.

• Carborundum Wall access
Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 150m or so until it forks. Take the R branch and follow this for about five minutes until it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face. Five more minutes will see you at the rock. The track meets the rock between Carborundum Chimney and Patience Crack.


This page was last updated Wednesday, 23 January 2013.
Copyright © 2003-2011 Lee Cujes