A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - Lower Cliffs, Mt Ngungun

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Lower Cliffs, Mt Ngungun

Follow the well-worn path from the carpark for about ten minutes to encounter the Lower Cliffs.

The Lower Cliffs are divided into four distinct sections - Flat Battery Wall, Owl Pillar, The Lower Main Cliffs and The Cave. Most of the climbs are bolted sport routes with a sprinkling of easy, naturally protected slabs. These cliffs are perfect to climb on during the hotter part of the day as they are shaded by the lush forest surrounding them.

Flat Battery Wall
This small buttress is situated just to the L of the main walking track. The wall has two bolted routes and three other easy slab climbs. Abseilers and instruction groups use this area extensively and have damaged trees and other vegetation at the top. Please refrain from setting up top-ropes or abseil ropes from the smaller trees.

Climbs are listed from L to R.

Bad Move 10m 17
Start: At L of wall. Marked 'BM'.
A thin crimpy wall on great rock past two BR’s. Use a large bracket or a wire on the first bolt as it's oversized. Suffers from wet conditions.
Darrin Carter, Grant Bucknell 10/05/1993

Flat Battery 10m 13
Start: 2m R of BM.
Probably the most ascended route in the Glasshouses. A mini classic up a juggy slab past two BR’s. TB.
Darrin Carter, Grant Bucknell 10/05/1993

Where's Marty? 10m 12
Start: 2m R.
A bouldery, slabby route with minimal protection.
Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett 1994

Sexy Legs 15m 15
Start: 2m R of WM.
Vegetarian's delight. Over bulge, through fern-filled crack to twin juggy flakes. Up unprotected mossy slab to top.
M. Welsh, Ingrid Smits, Martin Worth 1994

Roof Climb 15m 12
Hardly! Start: 6m R of Sexy Legs, R of wide crack. Up slab on nice rock to stance under bulge. Over this on big jugs to easy but unprotectable finish.
FSA Neil Monteith 1993

Owl Pillar
The next six climbs are situated on the obvious free-standing pillar R of the walking track. Five of the routes are bolted sport routes and one is an easy beginners ramble. They are all worthwhile routes on good rock. A chain is situated on top. As this is a very public climbing area please refrain from excessive loud noise and swearing! The wall L of Midnight Makeout has been top-roped, but no more bolts are needed on Owl Pillar.

Climbs are listed from the NE side in an anticlockwise direction.

Midnight Makeout 7m 22
Short but hard. Stickclip the FH then blast up overhung wall to join up with the top of Afternoon Delight. Don't fall off getting to the second BR. Originally led using a large jug L of the FH but this was pulled off by an unsuspecting climber!
Alister Robbie 1994 (grade 20) Re-established Neil Monteith 1995

The Pillar Connection 10m 22
Follow Midnight Makeout through bulge (FH) to stance. Step R to FH on Afternoon Delight, then continue R. Clip BR on Dawn Raid, then finish up slab on Morning Madness and clip its last BR.
Neil Monteith 1995

Afternoon Delight 7m 18
Start: 2m R.
Jug upwards past a FH and BR. Bolted and climbed by an unsuspecting Darrin Carter after Neil’s solo ascent.
FSA Neil Monteith 1993

Dawn Raid 9m 19
Start: 2m R.
A pumpy wall climb with a bold runout at the top. A FH and BR protect this route.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994

Morning Madness 10m 18
A well-protected mini route. From 2m R of Afternoon Delight, head R (BR) to overhung edge. Layback up this (BR) to slabby finish (two BR’s).
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1995

Easy Solo 13m 4
The slab up the back.
FSA Aboriginals, well before the white man came

The Lower Main Cliff
This is the large cliff beginning behind Owl Pillar. The rock is friable in places and generally lacks good natural protection. Be wary, routes on this cliff may have loose blocks and 'exploding' handholds.

Climbs are listed from L to R.

Breakaway 40m 7
Make sure the holds don't. Directly opposite Midnight Makeout. Up the juggy groove with okay protection to the slab finish onto the ledge.
Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson 03/1971

Daily Constitutional 35m 10
Start: 5m R of Breakaway.
A super-jug festival. Romp up the bold, wide crack for 15m, then continue slightly L up steepening slab to the top of the buttress as for B.
Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson 03/1971

Vertical Cabbage 40m 10
Start: At the end of the deep ravine.
The name says it all. An awful chimney up a slimy and vegetated funnel passing some chockstones. Beware of loose rock at the top.
Dave Gilleson, Ian Thomas 03/1971

Acid 25m 27
The testpiece for aspiring pumpers. Sustained climbing up the overhung wall of the ravine. For many years the short grade 22 version used to finish at a chain on the fifth bolt. No longer. Stickclip RB, then up past three more RB’s to gain jug and fifth bolt. The hard and technical finish continues past three FH’s to rap station.
Short version (22): Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994
Full version (27): Cameron Fairbairn 17/6/2000

Good Vibrations 35m 7
Start: 6m R of Acid at base of ravine.
A great, juggy slab route with little protection. Finish on ledge with tree. Rap off from here or climb short wall above to exit.
Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson 03/1971

Trench Tactics 40m 11
Start: About 15m R of Good Vibrations.
Adequate pro. Climbs the opposite side of the Acid buttress. Scramble up to big tree and cave to begin. Up with good pro for 10m. Move R wherever necessary to avoid loose rock/vegetation/wide crack, then move back L into the corner at the obvious point. At the top of the corner, escape off L and down to TB. Rap off.
Lee Cujes 14/03/1999

15-20m R of Trench Tactics is a vegetated corner. The top of this (not visible from the ground) opens into a steep chasm, similar to the Acid ravine. To access, either do an easy slab pitch, or walk in from the top on an indistinct trail from above Ngungun’s Cave to reach an obvious steep ravine, then rap in. The actual rap station for the route is not accessible without rapping down part way.

Watch Your Back Jack 18m 20
Big holds up an overhung wall. Stickclip first FH, then use tree to gain start jugs. A big throw, then pump away up L passing second FH to jugs and #1 or 1.5 SLCD. Traverse L and up passing two more FH’s to rap station. The last FH is tricky to clip.
Lee Cujes, Menno Smits 21/03/1999

Back on ground level. About 50m R of Trench Tactics are some blocky orange roofs.

Forsaken 20m 22
...but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent. Five RB’s lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang.
Phil Box, Stephen Parker 17/02/2002

Cardiac Arrest 30m 16
Start: 5m R of the orange roofs on the black rock.
L-trending climbing up poor, overhung rock with minimal protection. Find the LLR (and most protection!) to arrive at the tree above the orange roofs to rap, or alternatively rap from Forsaken’s station situated about 4m directly below the tree. Originally climbed as an access route for inspecting the orange roofs.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994

Summer Holiday 24m 18
Start: Start about 10m R of Forsaken.
Enjoyable overhanging climbing. Take brackets. Climb slab passing hard-to-see BR and up to beneath roof. Clip FH above then hard moves through it. Trend up and R to FH. A hard reach move leads to another FH. More juggy climbing past a BR leads to chains on slab.
Darrin Carter 10/1998

Biyatch Pants 25m 22
Start: Start 3m R of Summer Holiday.
Climb slab passing RB to beneath large roof. Clip RB above. Strenuously crank over the roof (to the R of the RB) with little finesse to clip RB. Wipe forehead, then move up and L to join SH at its third bolt.
Lee Cujes 17/02/2002

Serenade For Rings 17m 21
Start: 3m R at featured arête.
Slab up the arête past RB to top (ye olde BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing with big moves directly up the headwall passing two more RB’s to rap station on ledge.
Lee Cujes, Samantha Coles, Stephen Parker 17/02/2002

Present And Accounted For 18m 20
Start: At Serenade For Rings.
Climb SFR to top of arête, but don’t clip BR. Lean R to clip RB before swinging out there. Big throws and fine moves past the remaining two RB’s caps things off. Finish at SFR’s rap station.
Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith 01/1999

Xposure 45m 16
Start: At rap station of Present And Accounted For.
Note: Currently not climbable. Stay off until fixed protection is replaced.
Link this with PAAF to create the longest route on Ngungun. From the station, climb slab on L past two FH’s (chopped) to overhung wall. Place high blind #4 Rock and up wall past FH (chopped) to arrive at slab. Up and slightly R past two more FH’s (chopped) and big runouts to arrive at tree-lined ledge. Walk off. The first ascent was done at night with only headlamps to light the way!
Gay Welders Union 1998

Linkage 15m 10
Not really worth recording, but here goes anyway: from rap anchor of Present And Accounted For, traverse R and up to finish at Absentia's chain. No pro.
Neil Monteith 1998

Back on ground level now, about 15m R of Present And Accounted For.

Absentia 20m 17
Very popular. Pocketed water-worn runnel with four FH’s which is solid at the grade. If it has just rained don't bother - this route follows a waterfall groove! Rap off chain.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994

Dog's Balls 50m 12
Start: At Absentia's chain.
Named by the second whilst he trundled large blocks. The wide groove above Absentia's chain. You can finish out L or R near the top. Protection is limited. In his edition of the guide, Col Smithies censored this route's name to Dog's Body, believing the original to be too offensive. He should do the next Nowra guide.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, Dave Hall, Alister Robbie 1994

Kicking Brass 50m 15
A nice, long adventure with some thought-provoking pro.
1) 15m (3) Starts 10m R of Absentia. Up R-leading gully slinging two trees as pro, then climb directly up the easy slab to tree and ledge (natural belay in pockets).
2) 35m (crux) Many of the pockets take gear (mostly hexes), so take a full rack. Diagonally L off the belay to good wire before wide crack, then up to bulge. Go L to avoid the bulge and up to second bulge. Resist temptation to trend R up ramp - instead go L through bulge to pro. Directly up black rock to FH. From here the line is direct up the steep juggy wall passing a crucial #6 hex pocket and second FH. Once on the upper slab, clip the last FH and traverse 5m R along ledge to chains.
Pitch 1: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994 Pitch 2: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton 14/3/99

Get Into The Groove 50m 15
Destined for popularity because the second pitch is entirely bolted.
1) 15m As per first pitch of Kicking Brass.
2) 35m (crux) Slightly L, then R up white corner to mini-rooflet (3 FH’s). Over this, then runout slab to headwall. Up this beautifully scooped groove passing 3 FH’s to chains.
Lee Cujes, Menno Smits 19/02/1999

The Cave
This is the cave situated on the R side of the track as you continue towards the summit. Climbing is prohibited here as loose rock can hit bushwalkers. Please stay off the three routes located here.

Unknown 20m 17
Start: 10m R of cave.
The blocky wall past four very dodgy BR’s. Don't trust the bolts.
Unknown 1993

Passive Action 17m 13
Start: 3m L and directly in front of the 'No Climbing' sign.
The obvious, L-leaning crack with fantastic protection. The crux is getting off the ground.
FRA Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 02/1997

Unknown 20m 18
Start: 2m L.
A rising traverse above the R side of the cave. A lone BR is found halfway along the traverse.
Unknown 1994

Bad Move 10m 17 Start: At L of wall. Marked 'BM'. A thin crimpy wall on great rock past two BR’s. Use a large bracket or a wire on the first bolt as it's oversized. Suffers from wet conditions. Darrin Carter, Grant Bucknell 10/05/1993	Flat Battery 10m 13 Start: 2m R of BM. Probably the most ascended route in the Glasshouses. A mini classic up a juggy slab past two BR’s. TB. Darrin Carter, Grant Bucknell 10/05/1993
Where's Marty? 10m 12 Start: 2m R. A bouldery, slabby route with minimal protection. Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett 1994	Sexy Legs 15m 15 Start: 2m R of WM. Vegetarian's delight. Over bulge, through fern-filled crack to twin juggy flakes. Up unprotected mossy slab to top. M. Welsh, Ingrid Smits, Martin Worth 1994
Roof Climb 15m 12 Hardly! Start: 6m R of Sexy Legs, R of wide crack. Up slab on nice rock to stance under bulge. Over this on big jugs to easy but unprotectable finish. FSA Neil Monteith 1993

Midnight Makeout 7m 22 Short but hard. Stickclip the FH then blast up overhung wall to join up with the top of Afternoon Delight. Don't fall off getting to the second BR. Originally led using a large jug L of the FH but this was pulled off by an unsuspecting climber! Alister Robbie 1994 (grade 20) Re-established Neil Monteith 1995	The Pillar Connection 10m 22 Follow Midnight Makeout through bulge (FH) to stance. Step R to FH on Afternoon Delight, then continue R. Clip BR on Dawn Raid, then finish up slab on Morning Madness and clip its last BR. Neil Monteith 1995
Afternoon Delight 7m 18 Start: 2m R. Jug upwards past a FH and BR. Bolted and climbed by an unsuspecting Darrin Carter after Neil’s solo ascent. FSA Neil Monteith 1993	Dawn Raid 9m 19 Start: 2m R. A pumpy wall climb with a bold runout at the top. A FH and BR protect this route. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994
Morning Madness 10m 18 A well-protected mini route. From 2m R of Afternoon Delight, head R (BR) to overhung edge. Layback up this (BR) to slabby finish (two BR’s). Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1995	Easy Solo 13m 4 The slab up the back. FSA Aboriginals, well before the white man came

Breakaway 40m 7 Make sure the holds don't. Directly opposite Midnight Makeout. Up the juggy groove with okay protection to the slab finish onto the ledge. Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson 03/1971	Daily Constitutional 35m 10 Start: 5m R of Breakaway. A super-jug festival. Romp up the bold, wide crack for 15m, then continue slightly L up steepening slab to the top of the buttress as for B. Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson 03/1971
Vertical Cabbage 40m 10 Start: At the end of the deep ravine. The name says it all. An awful chimney up a slimy and vegetated funnel passing some chockstones. Beware of loose rock at the top. Dave Gilleson, Ian Thomas 03/1971	Acid 25m 27 The testpiece for aspiring pumpers. Sustained climbing up the overhung wall of the ravine. For many years the short grade 22 version used to finish at a chain on the fifth bolt. No longer. Stickclip RB, then up past three more RB’s to gain jug and fifth bolt. The hard and technical finish continues past three FH’s to rap station. Short version (22): Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994 Full version (27): Cameron Fairbairn 17/6/2000
Good Vibrations 35m 7 Start: 6m R of Acid at base of ravine. A great, juggy slab route with little protection. Finish on ledge with tree. Rap off from here or climb short wall above to exit. Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson 03/1971	Trench Tactics 40m 11 Start: About 15m R of Good Vibrations. Adequate pro. Climbs the opposite side of the Acid buttress. Scramble up to big tree and cave to begin. Up with good pro for 10m. Move R wherever necessary to avoid loose rock/vegetation/wide crack, then move back L into the corner at the obvious point. At the top of the corner, escape off L and down to TB. Rap off. Lee Cujes 14/03/1999

Forsaken 20m 22 ...but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent. Five RB’s lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang. Phil Box, Stephen Parker 17/02/2002	Cardiac Arrest 30m 16 Start: 5m R of the orange roofs on the black rock. L-trending climbing up poor, overhung rock with minimal protection. Find the LLR (and most protection!) to arrive at the tree above the orange roofs to rap, or alternatively rap from Forsaken’s station situated about 4m directly below the tree. Originally climbed as an access route for inspecting the orange roofs. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994
Summer Holiday 24m 18 Start: Start about 10m R of Forsaken. Enjoyable overhanging climbing. Take brackets. Climb slab passing hard-to-see BR and up to beneath roof. Clip FH above then hard moves through it. Trend up and R to FH. A hard reach move leads to another FH. More juggy climbing past a BR leads to chains on slab. Darrin Carter 10/1998	Biyatch Pants 25m 22 Start: Start 3m R of Summer Holiday. Climb slab passing RB to beneath large roof. Clip RB above. Strenuously crank over the roof (to the R of the RB) with little finesse to clip RB. Wipe forehead, then move up and L to join SH at its third bolt. Lee Cujes 17/02/2002
Serenade For Rings 17m 21 Start: 3m R at featured arête. Slab up the arête past RB to top (ye olde BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing with big moves directly up the headwall passing two more RB’s to rap station on ledge. Lee Cujes, Samantha Coles, Stephen Parker 17/02/2002	Present And Accounted For 18m 20 Start: At Serenade For Rings. Climb SFR to top of arête, but don’t clip BR. Lean R to clip RB before swinging out there. Big throws and fine moves past the remaining two RB’s caps things off. Finish at SFR’s rap station. Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith 01/1999
Xposure 45m 16 Start: At rap station of Present And Accounted For. Note: Currently not climbable. Stay off until fixed protection is replaced. Link this with PAAF to create the longest route on Ngungun. From the station, climb slab on L past two FH’s (chopped) to overhung wall. Place high blind #4 Rock and up wall past FH (chopped) to arrive at slab. Up and slightly R past two more FH’s (chopped) and big runouts to arrive at tree-lined ledge. Walk off. The first ascent was done at night with only headlamps to light the way! Gay Welders Union 1998	Linkage 15m 10 Not really worth recording, but here goes anyway: from rap anchor of Present And Accounted For, traverse R and up to finish at Absentia's chain. No pro. Neil Monteith 1998

Unknown 20m 17 Start: 10m R of cave. The blocky wall past four very dodgy BR’s. Don't trust the bolts. Unknown 1993	Passive Action 17m 13 Start: 3m L and directly in front of the 'No Climbing' sign. The obvious, L-leaning crack with fantastic protection. The crux is getting off the ground. FRA Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 02/1997
Unknown 20m 18 Start: 2m L. A rising traverse above the R side of the cave. A lone BR is found halfway along the traverse. Unknown 1994