A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses

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Fern Wall, Mt Beerwah

About 100m R of the West Beerwah route. You can access this area by following the rock apron R, but it is quicker to walk along the fire trail/road that leads west from the water tank for about 10 minutes. Then turn towards the mountain and bush-bash up to the cliff. A quick explore should reveal a short, steep compact wall capped by blocky roofs. There are two sections to the wall, a top half with obvious roofs and a lower just off-vertical wall. Routes are listed from L to R.

Kakoda 12m 21
Deceptive little R-trending line on the far side L of the wall. Good natural gear. Move R to shared rap rings.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 24/04/2004

Ski Nautique 12m 21
The bolted line 2m R of Kokoda. Clip FH from ledge, but traverse in from the L, then up past another FH and optional #1.5 SLCD to shared rap rings. Awaits a FFA, feel free to do it.
FTRA: Chris Gibson 24/04/2004

(Open Project) 12m ?
Start: 4m R.
Through the middle of the small cave past two FH's. Very hard move at lip. Finish at shared rap rings. One for the boulderers.

Plastic Fantastic 12m 22
Start: As for (roof project) to first FH in cave. Traverse R past second FH into bottomless corner. Up easily to rap rings.
Lee Cujes, Chris Gibson, Erik Smits 24/04/2004

Lost World 18m A1
Start: At obvious corner capped by roofs.
An almost clean aid route. Start up corner. Traverse straight L under the daunting roof and finish up short corner (BR) to the top. Bring a wide range of gear including big SLCDs and lots of small wires. No pins required. The rock is fairly hollow - beware.
FA Neil Monteith 17/10/1996

Super League 15m 16
Start: As for Lost World.
Up corner to below first roof. Traverse R under roof (#4 SLCD) to crux layback from horizontal to vertical crack. Up easy finger crack above to scree slope and TB.
Neil Monteith 05/04/1996

The next routes are below Super League on a vertical wall with FH’s.

Satan Spawn 15m 22
Start: Start in front of tree at base.
Up wall, diagonally L to pocket and FH. Hard move follows to #4 SLCD placement. Up bulging wall above (two-finger pocket) to jug and FH. Crimp up to stance and last FH. Up big pockets on R to slab and chain belay.
Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett 05/04/1996

Timecode 15m 20
Start: As for Satan Spawn.
Up wall, diagonally R past FH to scoop. Up wall above (SLCDs/wires) to a stance and BR. A reach move to small crack (SLCD) and slab up to the L to chain belay of SS.
Neil Monteith 05/04/1996

Kakoda 12m 21 Deceptive little R-trending line on the far side L of the wall. Good natural gear. Move R to shared rap rings. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 24/04/2004	Ski Nautique 12m 21 The bolted line 2m R of Kokoda. Clip FH from ledge, but traverse in from the L, then up past another FH and optional #1.5 SLCD to shared rap rings. Awaits a FFA, feel free to do it. FTRA: Chris Gibson 24/04/2004
(Open Project) 12m ? Start: 4m R. Through the middle of the small cave past two FH's. Very hard move at lip. Finish at shared rap rings. One for the boulderers.	Plastic Fantastic 12m 22 Start: As for (roof project) to first FH in cave. Traverse R past second FH into bottomless corner. Up easily to rap rings. Lee Cujes, Chris Gibson, Erik Smits 24/04/2004
Lost World 18m A1 Start: At obvious corner capped by roofs. An almost clean aid route. Start up corner. Traverse straight L under the daunting roof and finish up short corner (BR) to the top. Bring a wide range of gear including big SLCDs and lots of small wires. No pins required. The rock is fairly hollow - beware. FA Neil Monteith 17/10/1996	Super League 15m 16 Start: As for Lost World. Up corner to below first roof. Traverse R under roof (#4 SLCD) to crux layback from horizontal to vertical crack. Up easy finger crack above to scree slope and TB. Neil Monteith 05/04/1996