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All Routes, Dwarfland

NOTE: Access to this crag is currently under threat! Please limit your impact.
 

The first two routes are located on the NNW facing, black, columnar wall you reach when you approach the crag, which is in sun nearly all day. Routes listed from R to L.

RecommendedNo Biggie Sport 12m 21
Up onto ledge, then sustained and technical stemming up the smooth shaft passing four FH's to rap rings. Superb rock past the bolts, but mind the top.
Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith 08/01/2000

Elfin Sport 12m 22
Start: 2m L.
Some big moves, with a fair bit packed into its length. Four FH's and a balancy top section to rap rings shared with No Biggie.
Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes 08/01/2000

Various top rope problems exist on the wall L of Elfin.
 
20m L and around the corner. Located in the junction of the two main walls.

RecommendedLike Icecream For Spiders Sport 10m 19
Up the corner for a few metres then traverse R onto face. Up this past four FH's to DBB.
Dan Pit, Scott Lawrence 09/1998

The next routes are further L on an E-facing, orange-streaked face which gets shade from lunch onwards.

RecommendedNadir Sport 10m 18
Start: 2m L of toe of buttress starting at the horizontal.
Three FH's with rap rings on L, shared with De Shrünkenklimb. Good holds, good rock, varied moves. A mini classic.
Lee Cujes, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith 12/01/2000

RecommendedDe Shrünkenklimb Sport 9m 23
Start: 5m L of toe of buttress.
Stickclip first FH, then bouldery moves straight off the deck. Sustained and powerful face climbing past three FH's to rap rings.
Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes 08/01/2000

Red Dwarf Sport 9m 22
Start: 4m L of De Shrünkenklimb at the orange rock.
Smeg! Sporty, but somewhat loose climbing up incipient seam with three FH’s to rap chains. You’d better stickclip the first FH.
Lee Cujes, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith 12/01/2000

RecommendedBijou Sport 8m 23
Start: 3m L of Red Dwarf on L of wall.
An achievable project. Big, dynamic throws on great, marble slopers is on offer. Some burly hugging caps things off. Three FH's to rap chains.
Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes 08/01/2000


This page was last updated Wednesday, 23 January 2013.
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