A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - 9. Desperation Wall, Mt Tibrogargan

Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 9. Desperation Wall, Mt Tibrogargan

9. Desperation Wall, Mt Tibrogargan

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.

Keloid 45m 9
Start: About 70m down R from the Caves Route at low angled wall.
Up 15m of slab below a small buttress. Then up the centre of the buttress to finish at Steelwood trees in a grassy area. The Caves Route is 10m L at this point.
Dennis Stocks, Neill Lamb 1966

Wasp 85m 10
Start: Start about 10m R of Keloid at the foot of a scoop of easy angled slabs. Marked 'W'.
This route is considerably undergraded.
1) 36m Up the slabs and diagonally L across the top side of a gully. Continue on a L trend until steepness eases to worn slabs. Continue on up to the L for another 4m into a gully and dodgy TB.
2) 18m Climb back down and traverse directly R along small ledges across to a piton below a groove. Continue R and slightly down for 3m to twin PRs. Belay off these and wires.
3) 29m (crux) L a bit, then straight up to base of a groove. Up this ('Wasp Groove') with adequate pro to sloping rock and TB. From here, scramble up and L to connect with the Caves Route.
Neill Lamb, Dennis Stocks 22/01/1967

Wasp RHV 70m 12
Start: Same as for Wasp.
1) 40m Virtually straight up to the twin PR belay at the end of Wasp’s second pitch.
2) 29m Same as for pitch 3 of Wasp.
J. Mather, M. Siwek, K. Jesienowski 10/07/1983

Directissima 100m 13
Start: Between Wasp and Desperation Wall.
This route is underprotected - beware!
1) 28m (crux). Up easy slab, up onto the wall and trend slightly R and up to PR, then on up to a bulge. Up a R-trending groove in the L-side of the bulge, then slightly L of white streaks to a belay on ledge.
2) 41m Climb directly up from ledge to find PR at 11m. Continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse L to base of groove. Finish up 'Wasp Groove'.
Paul Caffyn, Mike & Chris Meadows 30/12/1967

Line Of Credit 70m 16
Start: 5m L of Desperation Wall.
Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.
1) 35m 12 FH’s to rap station.
2) 35m 11 FH’s to rap station. Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here.
Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman 17/07/2004

Desperation Wall 130m 15
Start: At the base of an impressive blank wall about 10m R of Directissima. Marked 'DW'.
This route climbs good solid rock but is dangerously runout. Note that various other finishes have been done, but the best is as described.
1) 22m This pitch has very little protection. Straight up on nice rock for 8m, then traverse diagonally R with care on sloping holds (poor #3 SLCD in pocket) to ledge and belay.
2) 17m Traverse L for 5m then up scary, thin wall with little pro with a slight R trend, then up to small ledge and BB.
3) 50m (crux) Straight up for 5m to vertical wall. Turn this wall to the L and head for the yellow overhang (PRs). Continue up shallow corner (med wires) skirting overhang on R to ledge and bush belay.
4) 25m Continue up into Cave 1.
Ron Cox early 60's

Desperation Wall UQBWC Finish 100m 6
Start: In the belay cave on top of pitch three of Desperation Wall.
1) 33m Traverse down from cave to R below big overhanging bulge. Traverse horizontally R passing Ishoni's chains to ledge and TB.
2) 32m (crux) Ascend straight up past some loose rock to ledge and TB.
3) 37m Continue vertical line on great rock and holds to groove on R. Up groove to TB. Scramble up to Cave 3
Ron Cox, Pat Conaghan 1962

Ishoni 35m 19
Start: Scramble up onto vegetated terrace 20m R of Desperation Wall, then walk off L-end of terrace 3m to tree. Belay out of wide crack.
A proud line. Double ropes essential. Up L around bulge, then up to first of three black FH’s. Up and L to ledge (big gear). R off ledge to horizontal break in superb marble-like stone, then back L to FH. A long, undercling reach, then up to the last FH. RP's take you up the ever-steepening wall, then a good wire and a thankful rest on easy ground. Slab to chains. Well protected with careful placements.
Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 31/07/1999

Black Angus 113m 15
Start: As for Black Orpheus.
This climb ascends the wall directly, on the left of BO. A fairly comprehensive rack with a selection of wires, including RP’s, hexes and SLCDs from small to size 2.5 should provide plenty of protection. As with all new routes there is still some loose rock around.
1) 20m Climb straight up the first pitch of BO to large ledge and natural belay.
2) 13m Step up L from the belay onto short wall above then easier ground. Follow the L-trending ramp for a few meters and step up to a natural belay on a small stance. (An escape R is possible onto BO)
3) 30m Step L from the belay and climb obvious line above the loose-looking blocks. Continue up the steep section, crux, staying R of a small tree, to where the angle eases. Follow the easier ground to another natural belay a few meters L of and below the obvious corner.
4) 40m Traverse R from the belay and up into the corner (L of the chimney of BO), follow this to where it widens to a grassy gully, then step up and R onto the wall and climb easily to a tree.
5) 10m Scramble up the slabs to another tree at the mouth of the big cave.
Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson 17/02/2008

Black Orpheus 145m 10
Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.
A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.
1) 20m Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.
2) 45m (crux) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.
3) 40m Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.
4) 15m Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up.
Finish up the Caves Route, or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.
Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers 24/07/1969

Black Orpheus Variant 35m 11
Start: At the end of pitch two of Black Orpheus about 5m R of the chimney.
Start up short crack, then diagonally L past old PRs on great rock. When you hit the chimney, climb the wall R of it on good holds to an easy scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB. Finish as for pitch four of the original into Cave 3.
Unknown 1960's

The Whiteman 150m 12
Start: 7m L of Orpheus. Near large upturned eucalyptus.
1) 50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly R to belay tree.
2) 40m Following L-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend R to shallow block corner L of wide crack.
3) 50m Up corner then directly to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch!
4) 10m Scramble up to cave.
A fine route. Avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except for small patch on pitch two.
Robert Staszewski & Peter Beames 18/06/1991

Orpheus 150m 8
Start: About 20m R of Black Orpheus.
This route is fairly contrived.
1) 25m Up an open rock gully to a TB.
2) 29m Trend R over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up to a TB.
3) 27m Up slab trending L to a line of small trees. L along dirt ledge to the face R of the Black Orpheus chimney. This ledge is the same as the end of pitch three of Black Orpheus.
4) 28m (crux) Up onto the wall R of the chimney. Traverse R-ward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully to a TB. This is the same belay as the top of pitch three of Prometheus I.
5) 40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus I.
R. Brooks, G. Baines 25/08/1957

Earthenware 25m 10
This route climbs the delightful white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. It has little pro but great rock. TB.
FSA Neil Monteith 13/06/1996

Prometheus I 120m 4
Start: In big gully about 30m R of Orpheus on the E face.
This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.
1) 23m Climb up into the rock gully, walk R along tree thicket then scramble L and up to base of steep rock.
2) 27m Climb rib to the R of the belay using large holds. A tree runner is at the top of this. Continue tending L over loose and broken rocks to TB.
3) 20m Traverse R from belay around buttress, then up to TB.
4) 32m Ascend to short vertical wall which reaches across the face. Traverse across smooth slabs below the wall to a large dead tree, which is the belay.
5) 32m Traverse back L across the top of the wall over easy rock to a host of TBs.
6) 10m Scramble up short rib and cross to large tree below final wall.
7) 17m Climb up into chimney from belay tree. From here, Cave 4 can be reached by continuing up the chimney and eventually climbing out to the R, or several ways exist of climbing out to the L.
Neill Lamb, Ron Brooks 1953

Keloid 45m 9 Start: About 70m down R from the Caves Route at low angled wall. Up 15m of slab below a small buttress. Then up the centre of the buttress to finish at Steelwood trees in a grassy area. The Caves Route is 10m L at this point. Dennis Stocks, Neill Lamb 1966	Wasp 85m 10 Start: Start about 10m R of Keloid at the foot of a scoop of easy angled slabs. Marked 'W'. This route is considerably undergraded. 1) 36m Up the slabs and diagonally L across the top side of a gully. Continue on a L trend until steepness eases to worn slabs. Continue on up to the L for another 4m into a gully and dodgy TB. 2) 18m Climb back down and traverse directly R along small ledges across to a piton below a groove. Continue R and slightly down for 3m to twin PRs. Belay off these and wires. 3) 29m (crux) L a bit, then straight up to base of a groove. Up this ('Wasp Groove') with adequate pro to sloping rock and TB. From here, scramble up and L to connect with the Caves Route. Neill Lamb, Dennis Stocks 22/01/1967
Wasp RHV 70m 12 Start: Same as for Wasp. 1) 40m Virtually straight up to the twin PR belay at the end of Wasp’s second pitch. 2) 29m Same as for pitch 3 of Wasp. J. Mather, M. Siwek, K. Jesienowski 10/07/1983	Directissima 100m 13 Start: Between Wasp and Desperation Wall. This route is underprotected - beware! 1) 28m (crux). Up easy slab, up onto the wall and trend slightly R and up to PR, then on up to a bulge. Up a R-trending groove in the L-side of the bulge, then slightly L of white streaks to a belay on ledge. 2) 41m Climb directly up from ledge to find PR at 11m. Continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse L to base of groove. Finish up 'Wasp Groove'. Paul Caffyn, Mike & Chris Meadows 30/12/1967
Line Of Credit 70m 16 Start: 5m L of Desperation Wall. Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route. 1) 35m 12 FH’s to rap station. 2) 35m 11 FH’s to rap station. Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman 17/07/2004	Desperation Wall 130m 15 Start: At the base of an impressive blank wall about 10m R of Directissima. Marked 'DW'. This route climbs good solid rock but is dangerously runout. Note that various other finishes have been done, but the best is as described. 1) 22m This pitch has very little protection. Straight up on nice rock for 8m, then traverse diagonally R with care on sloping holds (poor #3 SLCD in pocket) to ledge and belay. 2) 17m Traverse L for 5m then up scary, thin wall with little pro with a slight R trend, then up to small ledge and BB. 3) 50m (crux) Straight up for 5m to vertical wall. Turn this wall to the L and head for the yellow overhang (PRs). Continue up shallow corner (med wires) skirting overhang on R to ledge and bush belay. 4) 25m Continue up into Cave 1. Ron Cox early 60's
Desperation Wall UQBWC Finish 100m 6 Start: In the belay cave on top of pitch three of Desperation Wall. 1) 33m Traverse down from cave to R below big overhanging bulge. Traverse horizontally R passing Ishoni's chains to ledge and TB. 2) 32m (crux) Ascend straight up past some loose rock to ledge and TB. 3) 37m Continue vertical line on great rock and holds to groove on R. Up groove to TB. Scramble up to Cave 3 Ron Cox, Pat Conaghan 1962	Ishoni 35m 19 Start: Scramble up onto vegetated terrace 20m R of Desperation Wall, then walk off L-end of terrace 3m to tree. Belay out of wide crack. A proud line. Double ropes essential. Up L around bulge, then up to first of three black FH’s. Up and L to ledge (big gear). R off ledge to horizontal break in superb marble-like stone, then back L to FH. A long, undercling reach, then up to the last FH. RP's take you up the ever-steepening wall, then a good wire and a thankful rest on easy ground. Slab to chains. Well protected with careful placements. Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 31/07/1999
Black Angus 113m 15 Start: As for Black Orpheus. This climb ascends the wall directly, on the left of BO. A fairly comprehensive rack with a selection of wires, including RP’s, hexes and SLCDs from small to size 2.5 should provide plenty of protection. As with all new routes there is still some loose rock around. 1) 20m Climb straight up the first pitch of BO to large ledge and natural belay. 2) 13m Step up L from the belay onto short wall above then easier ground. Follow the L-trending ramp for a few meters and step up to a natural belay on a small stance. (An escape R is possible onto BO) 3) 30m Step L from the belay and climb obvious line above the loose-looking blocks. Continue up the steep section, crux, staying R of a small tree, to where the angle eases. Follow the easier ground to another natural belay a few meters L of and below the obvious corner. 4) 40m Traverse R from the belay and up into the corner (L of the chimney of BO), follow this to where it widens to a grassy gully, then step up and R onto the wall and climb easily to a tree. 5) 10m Scramble up the slabs to another tree at the mouth of the big cave. Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson 17/02/2008	Black Orpheus 145m 10 Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'. A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope. 1) 20m Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB. 2) 45m (crux) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB. 3) 40m Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB. 4) 15m Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the Caves Route, or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers 24/07/1969
Black Orpheus Variant 35m 11 Start: At the end of pitch two of Black Orpheus about 5m R of the chimney. Start up short crack, then diagonally L past old PRs on great rock. When you hit the chimney, climb the wall R of it on good holds to an easy scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB. Finish as for pitch four of the original into Cave 3. Unknown 1960's	The Whiteman 150m 12 Start: 7m L of Orpheus. Near large upturned eucalyptus. 1) 50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly R to belay tree. 2) 40m Following L-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend R to shallow block corner L of wide crack. 3) 50m Up corner then directly to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch! 4) 10m Scramble up to cave. A fine route. Avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except for small patch on pitch two. Robert Staszewski & Peter Beames 18/06/1991
Orpheus 150m 8 Start: About 20m R of Black Orpheus. This route is fairly contrived. 1) 25m Up an open rock gully to a TB. 2) 29m Trend R over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up to a TB. 3) 27m Up slab trending L to a line of small trees. L along dirt ledge to the face R of the Black Orpheus chimney. This ledge is the same as the end of pitch three of Black Orpheus. 4) 28m (crux) Up onto the wall R of the chimney. Traverse R-ward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully to a TB. This is the same belay as the top of pitch three of Prometheus I. 5) 40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus I. R. Brooks, G. Baines 25/08/1957	Earthenware 25m 10 This route climbs the delightful white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. It has little pro but great rock. TB. FSA Neil Monteith 13/06/1996
Prometheus I 120m 4 Start: In big gully about 30m R of Orpheus on the E face. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them. 1) 23m Climb up into the rock gully, walk R along tree thicket then scramble L and up to base of steep rock. 2) 27m Climb rib to the R of the belay using large holds. A tree runner is at the top of this. Continue tending L over loose and broken rocks to TB. 3) 20m Traverse R from belay around buttress, then up to TB. 4) 32m Ascend to short vertical wall which reaches across the face. Traverse across smooth slabs below the wall to a large dead tree, which is the belay. 5) 32m Traverse back L across the top of the wall over easy rock to a host of TBs. 6) 10m Scramble up short rib and cross to large tree below final wall. 7) 17m Climb up into chimney from belay tree. From here, Cave 4 can be reached by continuing up the chimney and eventually climbing out to the R, or several ways exist of climbing out to the L. Neill Lamb, Ron Brooks 1953