Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 8. Summit Cave, Mt Tibrogargan

Often ogled, the Summit Cave on Tibro is the new you-beaut sport climbing crag in Queensland, having undergone a wave of intense development from 2005-2007. The result is some of the most spectacular looking climbs in the country.

The easiest access is by climbing The Caves Route up into 'The Scrub'. Some climbers solo the Caves Route while many others feel most comfortable with a rope on a few sections. Don't be a hero!

Overexposed 120m 15 Start: About 10m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's E summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves. 1) 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and PR. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave. 2) 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner onto the very exposed wall. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L). Good holds but exposed. 3) 17m A difficult move out of the cave, moving up under the roof of the cave on the L out onto a point. On top of the cave easier ground, then traverse R above cave and around the corner and up to yet another small cave. 4) 17m A difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. 5) 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit. Les Wood, Donn Groom 30/07/1966

Overexposed DF - 16 From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top. John Oddie, Rick White 13/09/1970

Summit Cave Left Side
To access, stay low at grass level when traversing across The Scrub into the L-hand side of the overhangs. Scramble carefully up the slabs to small sandy ledge with belay (two FH's & an ancient carrot). This is the belay location for these next few routes.

Ronald Muck 45m 21 Start: This route climbs up the L wall of the big corner. Climb L on scrappy territory (gear) then up past a FH to a rap station. Clip this and keep going up L past FH to cruxy mantle move (careful of ledgefall). Up past some good, spaced trad gear and the odd FH to another tricky bulge. Find a way around this and keep on blasting up and out of the corner. Rap station over on R. Belay up your second, then rap 25m down to ledge, scramble over to rap station then rap again (doable with single 60m rope) or use two ropes. Craig Pohlman 2005	Tangled Up In Blue 60m 25 Start: Same starting belay as for previous. 1) 30m (25) Head L and up from the alcove to generous ledge (no bolts in this easy section yet). Clip FH and swing out R off the end of the ledge and up into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond finally deviating L to short corner and then stepping R to belay stance. Woo Hoo! (Possible to rap or lower-off from here with a 60m rope, but it's better not to clean on lower -- too steep! Instead, clean on second with top belay or ground belay.) 2) 30m (25) Easily up and slightly L to first FH then more or less straight up steep wall trending R slightly near the end. It is possible to rest in the small cave off to the R at one point if you want (I want! I want!). It's possible to clean this pitch on lower or superior free hanging abseil all the way to the ground. Note: climbers should stay well clear of this route during Spring (August to October) as a Peregrine Falcon's nest is very close to the route. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue (alt) 20/02/2005
Massive Attack 28m 26 A1 Start: Same starting belay as for previous. Climb the initial 8-10m of OOTBAITB but stop before it traverses R. Instead go L a few metres and clip the first BR (long sling). Aid/dog out roof past another three FH's to lip (this section is an open project after a crucial rib broke off). From the lip follow FH's up steep wall to the R eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. p2 is an incomplete project. Please stay off until finished. It's a good idea to go back down after the initial aid section and unclip gear to reduce drag for the free section. FA Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue 05/02/2006	Out Of The Blue And Into The Black 80m 24 Start: Same starting belay as for previous. This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibro's E face. The start is marked by an archaic bolt at the base of a horizontal crack (now upgraded to a safe bolted belay). This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split. 1) 30m (22) Climb R-ward across the horizontal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance (optional belay), then up the vertical finger-crack to belay stance. 2) 25m (crux) This pitch traverses R with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner 5m above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves R-ward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#2 SLCD with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Do not trust the knifeblade in the ear. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (about 7m or so!). Technically this 15m section is only 22 but it gets two grades extra because you are in unprecedentedly scary country. Up the corner formed by the ear with SLCDs for the roof & small RP's for the corner. Steep, technical and wild climbing. You can traverse off and up to safety or do pitch 3. 3) 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl to the summit. FA Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss 1980. FFA Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins 1980
Into The Morgue ? 25 Details are sketchy but it follows the obvious L to R line R of OOTBAITB. The first 20m looks pretty good then it goes into crazy land, hence the route name. If you came to the crag with a wheelbarrow to cart your balls then please explore up there and find out more for the rest of us. Mark Moorhead 1980's	Back In Black 20m 25 A direct 2nd pitch to OOTBAITB. Follow standard first pitch (30m 22) and belay either at normal spot (4m below fixed wires), or ideally if rope drag permits continue another 5m past fixed wires and #9 hex to the obvious ledge (natural belay, green alien handy). The line then goes straight though the improbable V of the main roof (one set of SLCDs from 0.5 to 2.5 for gear up to the roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (four FH's also en route). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with strechy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out R to finish the pitch. A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2 x 60m ropes) or complete the 3rd pitch of OOTBAITB (25m 23 - this is the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay). Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin 16/09/2007

Summit Cave Right Side - Weirdo Buttress
This is the wall between Raptures and Trojan. The base camp for these next routes is on the flat gravelly ledge 10m below the start of Trojan. Dump your pack, wipe the sweat from your brow and survey the grandeur above!

Raptures 60m 24 Start: In the corner 15m R of OOTBAITB, and a few metres L of Strange Fruit. "One of the most serious routes in Australia, I thought I was going to die for sure" - Kim Carrigan. On the crux pitch, Kim describes being 10m out from a #0 RP which sounds like a rather absorbing experience. 1) 30m (23) Up the corner on great rock to natural belay stance, appears to have pretty good gear. From this belay there is a variant second pitch (23) up the obvious line continuing out R towards Trojan (this was climbed by HB during the 90's). 2) 20m (crux) Traverse R above the steep overhangs and passing a few bail pieces towards runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland climbing requiring a very capable and bold approach. The route follows the weakness out L and up to a belay stance. 3. 10m (19) To the top. Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins 1980s	Strange Fruit 25m 24 Start: Scoot L from base camp's gravel ledge about 15m around the corner and clamber up into a big cave/scoop. Boulder R-wards past first bolt (stickclip if you like) to easy ground up R-trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way R across a balancy ledge to SEW's last bolt and then anchor. In a couple of spots it pays to watch that your rope doesn't get caught up as you swing around the aręte. Gareth Llewellin 03/03/2007
Somebody Else's Wierdo 20m 24 Start: Scoot L from base camp's gravel ledge about 10m around the corner to make a belay on a sloping ramp (single FH and yellow alien if you like). Slab your way up easy ground past two FH's then move L across ledge to base of shallow groove (below whitish streak). Straight up (FH's) to knobs and a rest. Reach L (FH) then blast out that way up steep wall (more FH's) to gain a hanging ledge then anchor. Gareth Llewellin 30/01/2006	Punk's Not Dead 16m 23 Start: As for SEW to the big knob but reach R (not L) to clip a FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) brings you to the lower-off. Avoid the blocks above anchor! Basically follows the white streak up the R side of this wall. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 30/11/2006
Four Seasons 28m 22 Start: This route is a more direct way to get to the cave belay (second belay) of Trojan. It's possible to belay for this route on base camp's gravel ledge. Some trad gear is required to make a belay (up to 1.5"). If you're not feeling as confident, it might be an idea to shift the belay point up closer to the steep rock where the real climbing begins. Slab your way carefully on easy ground up and L for 8m to first FH (long sling is a good idea) and then follow four more FH's up trending R through steeper ground and a bouldery crux. After the last FH, you pop out on the slab below the Trojan cave to join Trojan for the last 6m or so with minimal pro (yellow alien possible here). Belay in the cave. If using a 50m rope DON'T lower off the end. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led) 16/12/2005

Summit Cave Right Side - Steepsville!
This is the steep wall above Trojan.

Trojan 70m 13 Start: At the top L of The Scrub. Wander up the slab to the big ‘T’ marker. A stunning old-time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at this route and think 'How can this be a 13?!'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! 1) 14m (crux) Step out L from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Runout in top section. A selection of SLCDs including #4 or 5 are useful at top belay. 2) 14m Another bold pitch. Walk L across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 SLCD in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave. 3) 15m Step out of cave and climb finger-crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far R of ledge (two 50m ropes) which provide an escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland. 4) 15m Climb the crack-corner to ledge. 5) 15m Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the L. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain. Les Wood, John Tillack 12/03/1966	Achilles 8m 26 Start: Climb either Four Seasons or Trojan to get to the cave. Sidle R out of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted aręte. Up you go! Powerful underclinging and laybacking in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off. Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 01/2006
The Bends 13m 27 Start: At hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and R of Trojan's cave about 8m). Climb Four Seasons to access. This is a direct start on Achilles. Reach up from undercling to clip the first bolt then L-wards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing L for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles clipping its last two bolts. You'll be gulping for air after this one. Powerful, sustained climbing with a dynamic crux. Take eight quickdraws. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue (both led) 02/05/2006	The Beast From The East 15m 29 Start: At the belay as for The Bends. As for The Bends but boulder your way R after the first bolt, hand traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around aręte and up an awesome orange wall to a rest in a crazy cave. Reach out R to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heatbreak up the last little headwall to anchor. Adam Donoghue 11/02/2007
A Gaze Blank And Pitiless As The Sun 18m 30 Start: Set a belay at the top of Trojan p1 using the first bolt of the route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse R. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow'. Breach crux to gain In Between Dreams' corner. Finish up this. Nine FHs. Incredible climbing on perfect rock. Lee Cujes 29/03/2009	Staple It Together 10m 20 Start: At the Trojan marker. It is possible and recommended to make a trad anchor here for the belayer (small to mid gear). Go R and up past four hard-to-see FH's to rap station. Only established as an access pitch to In Between Dreams. Yuck climbing. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue 29/01/2006
In Between Dreams 18m 26 Start: To approach IBD, climb SIT or run them together so your belayer isn't left stranded off the ground. Straight up from belay following overhung aręte past two FH's. Break L and embrace the steepness (two more FH's) to get established in obvious overhanging corner (Is it a slab or an overhang? I can't tell!) Follow this past three FH's to finish at lower-off on little ledge. One of the most outrageous pitches of sport climbing you'll get on. Sure to leave you with a sore behind from clenching so hard. It's possible to clean on lower (or back jump) but more pleasant to lower all the way to the ground and have your second clean on top rope, then lower them (NOT off the end of the rope, make sure there's a knot in it!). It's a 32m rap from top anchor (possible on stretch with a 60m rope). Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 29/01/2006	(Project - Gareth) - - Breaks R after IBD's 2nd FH. Please stay off until completed.

Summit Cave Right Side - Short and Sweet Sector
Many worthwhile two pitch combinations exist here at the R-hand end of the summit cave area.

Hyperballad 16m 25 Start: In the slot/gully L of Short and Sweet. Follow easy crack that sickles R-wards (small-med trad). When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in a shallow L-facing corner below a bulge. Above this a #2 friend or #0.75 camalot in the undercling slot is optional (but nice) before clipping a second FH up on bulge. Once established on bulge, head out L (not R up MotE) to slopey edges and layaways (two more FH's) and a lower-off out to the L. Gareth Llewellin 12/03/2007	Morning Of The Earth 20m 24 Start: As for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge. Head out R (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to land on ledge with lower-off. Ross Ferguson 12/03/2007
Bird Of Prey 33m 25 Start: At Short And Sweet beneath the line of FH's. The stars are for the first pitch alone. 1) 20m (21) Thought provoking and interesting to the last drop. Climb S&S (two SLCDs), then straight up past six FH's. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing. One of the best pitches of this style in the Glasshouses. 2) 13m (crux) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FH's). Gain finger sized crack (trad) that sends you L into 'bell cave' belay. The hard section is short but steep. One 30m abseil or two shorter ones to ground. p1: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led) 04/02/2006 p2: Gareth Llewellin 18/02/2006	Adrenaline Gives Me Gas 35m 23 Start: At Short And Sweet. 1) 22m (23) Up S&S for 20m to big rest where you can traverse L onto slick orange wall (FH). Crux past this on polished marble to second FH, then up to belay in back of cave on natural gear (finger-sized). 2) 13m (23) Belay-gripping exposure. Out R side of cave roof past two FH’s on outrageous overhanging rock. Finish up awesome fingery slab on perfect little edges past two FH's to double rings. Rap off. It's possible to climb this route in one pitch and just get back to the ground on stretch using a 60m rope. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 13/03/1998
Short And Sweet 35m 13 Start: This climb takes the obvious R-leading corner crack about 20m R of Trojan. Marked ‘S’. Atmospheric climbing up a polished R-tending groove. Protection on the route is quite technical to place, and is sparse at the start (crux) so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Belay off tree at top. A doubled 50m rope will get you back to the ground from the tree. You are actually rapping straight down The Digital Revolution. Les Wood, Ted Cais 16/07/1966	Big Empty 48m 21 Start: At line of five FH’s up wall just R of Short And Sweet. 1) 30m (21) This is technical slabby weirdness on great rock. A #1.5 cam protects the final section to the chain. Move R at top to find rap chain, or if you're doing p2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on S&S. 2) 18m (crux) The first FH is up on the L wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistake AGMG's first bolt (further down the corner) or WTL's first FH (further up at the top of the corner) for this one. Swing up L on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with WTL). Continue straight up passing another two FH's through steepening to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off. p1: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin 26/03/2000 p2: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 18/4/2006
Walk The Line 25m 17 Start: Climb S&S, BE, MKJROYD or DR and belay on My Karma's anchor. Traverse directly L across hanging orange wall (underneath the start of Circlet) passing two FH's until you reach the belay ledge for AGMG's trad belay (small-med gear). Go up onto large ledge and continue walking L until the ledge starts to steepen. Behind you on overhead wall is a FH (Bird of Prey's p2's second). Clip this and continue L into unlikely terrain and a final FH. Thrilling moves gain a belay ledge in spectacular position under a jutting roof. Drag isn't bad if you extend a few pieces but you can break this into two shorter pitches by belaying at AGMG's trad belay. 30m free hanging rap to the ground (seems further!) Gets the stars only for the conclusion. Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt) 11/02/2006	Circlet 16m 22 Very exposed steep thugging on the wall R of Adrenaline’s second pitch. Starts at the top of Short And Sweet and traverse L a few moves then up and around the aręte to a small cave. Now blast up the slopers to finish at A’s anchor. Three ringbolts and two FH’s. Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin (both led) 26/03/2000
My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma 20m 20 Start: As for Big Empty. 1) 28m (20) Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out R and follow the line of FH's leading up and R to rap chain. 2) 15m (18) Cross over S&S (wire or reach out L and clip WTL's first FH with a long sling) and head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching L to clip the second RB, continue directly up the wall and climb past two FH's. Follow big holds L-wards around the aręte and up this (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it is 35m to the ground. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (alt) 11/04/2006	The Digital Revolution 28m 18 Start: 10m R of Short And Sweet L wall of small cul-de-sac past FH to stance. Get in some good gear (a few wires and SLCDs) then run it out with care to chain belay (shared with Big Empty). The last 10m are groundfall country! Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 30/06/1996
Kronos 23m 11 Start: You must ascend a slab (grade 2) to get to the start, which is on a dirt ledge near a very small cave. Up R (past mouth of cave) then L into short water-worn chimney. Chimney and bridge up this to a slabby finish up the NE shoulder. Dennis Stocks, Barry Collier 19/07/1966	Jupiter 40m 13 Start: Below the third groove L of the Caves Route chimney, then climb the slab (grade 1) about 20m straight up to a small bushy ledge on the R. Marked 'J'. 1) 21m Up the groove and out to the R onto a ledge. 2) 18m (crux) Up the groove directly above the first pitch, then climb up the wall R of the smooth groove and up to ledge. Up L to the NE shoulder. Shane & Col Smithies 27/09/1985
Juno 30m 13 Start: On the dirt ledge at the base of the second groove L of the Caves Route chimney. Marked 'J'. Up the groove to a ledge. Continue up the groove to another ledge, then up twin grooves. From this point, out L onto a slab and then up to the NE shoulder. Col & Shane Smithies 27/09/1985	Hercules 30m 9 Start: Below the first groove L of the Caves Route chimney where The Scrub track meets the slab. Marked 'H'. Up the slab for 13m and into the groove. Up the groove and into a gully, then out on to the NE shoulder. Col Smithies 10/05/1985
Boags Lite 19m 12 Start: On the arete 20m R of Caves Route chimney, immediately L of cave 5. This route could be done as an alternative to p3 of the Caves Route. Follow the line of four FHs to rap station. Colin Carstens 04/2005

The following routes are located in Cave 5. Best accessed via the Caves Route.

(Project - Craig) - - Start: 5m inside the cave. Please keep off until tag is removed.	No Membership Required 10m 23 Start: 7m L. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing R. Four FH's. Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara 08/01/2006
Crikey 10m 22 Start: 6m R. Four FH's up the overhanging corner traversing L to clip the shared lower-off upside down. Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara 15/10/2006	Groundhog Day 16m 27 Start: The R-most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms. This took Craig over 60 days of work to complete (!) so the grade needs a thorough examination. Craig Pohlman 03/11/2005