A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - 4. Clemency Wall, Mt Tibrogargan

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4. Clemency Wall, Mt Tibrogargan

Access as for Celestial Wall sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at Heliosphere on Celestial Wall. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to Clemency Wall.

Check out the Celestial & Clemency Wall Topo.

Clemency 192m 16
Start: 10m R of Rubicon on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.
1) 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.
2) 30m (crux) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground).
3) 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on Clemency Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.
4) 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.
5) 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.
6) 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field.
A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.
FA Les Wood, Donn Groom 19/04/1966. FFA Unknown.

Sent From Above 12m 23
Start: On the flat vegetated ledge 5m L of the rap rings at the base of Clemency's third pitch corner.
Access from there, or rap in from Halfway House. To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m L of the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m. Setting a trad anchor is possible on the ledge. Four FH's with one bouldery section to rap station. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb out (trad) on the next route.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 07/10/2006

Apricots 28m 16
Start: At the bolted belay anchor above the previous route.
Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice fingercrack. Climb this for about 10m then move R into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House terrace.
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 07/10/2006

The Mace 18m 22
Start: 9m R of Clemency. Marked 'M'.
Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.
Phil Box, Lee Cujes 22/12/2002

Alienation 18m 20
Start: 2m R. Marked 'A'.
This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCDs are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing.
Lee Cujes, Phil Box 22/12/2002

Divergence 20m 19
Start: 4m R directly beneath the landmark bright orange corner 60m up (Caritas climbs this). Marked 'D'.
Classy and engaging. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this, then slab up to bulge and a heady little move getting to the FH. Steep corner (tiny wires) through bulge to ledge and rap station.
Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn 26/10/2002

The Twisticle Connection 73m 22
Use this three route combination as a great way to access the Halfway House or as a classic undertaking in its own right. Take one set of SLCD's up to at least #2 and one set of wires.
1) 20m (19) Climb Divergence, then choose one of the following two options.
2a) 35m (17) aka Tested Twisticle (left). Step left to small layback flake and up passing 2 FH’s. From the second, head up diagonally right to right-leaning hand rail. Follow this to small ledge (‘TT right’ joins in here from the right.) Straight up (FH) to another ledge from which you can see the anchor below the obvious orange corner of Caritas. Head towards this through steeper terrain and a FH.
Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin 29/10/2005
2b) 35m (18) aka Tested Twisticle (right). From the station follow the right leaning shallow diagonal corner. When this ends, swing up left a few moves (passing a FH) to a small ledge. (‘TT left’ joins in here from the left.) Straight up (FH) to another ledge from which you can see the anchor below the obvious orange corner of Caritas. Head towards this through steeper terrain and a FH.
Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter 29/10/05
3) 18m (crux) Climb Caritas. Either rap to ground from here (2x50m or 1x60m rope) or continue up to the Halfway House terrace.

The Simon Vos Memorial 18m 27
Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really. Up Caritas for two bolts, then step L onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful sidepulling to ledge. Rejoin Caritas to finish. Pre-place a long quickdraw on the first bolt on the bulge. Remains unrepeated - get to it!
Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders 14/10/2006

Caritas 18m 22
This is the landmark orange corner just R of Clemency’s third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. The easiest access is to either climb up to it via The Twisticle Connection, or rap in from the main rap tree on Halfway House down onto the ledge with rap station beneath base of corner (leave rap rope in place).
Superb climbing. A short wall, then the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above. Seven FH’s. Either lower from the rap station, or belay up your second then scramble (roped) up onto Halfway House.
Lee Cujes, Phil Box 18/12/2004

The next four routes start on the apex of the track.

Guenevere 90m 17
Start: 2m R of Divergence. Marked 'G'.
A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.
1) 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.
2) 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.
3) 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.
Lee Cujes, Phil Box, Samantha Coles 16/02/2003

Lancelot 90m 15
Start: 6m R. Marked 'L'.
Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.
1) 20m Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far L of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).
2) 30m Walk all the way back to the R end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and R aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip PR before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB.
3) 25m Climb up onto block on far R of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby R-facing corner. Clip PR and traverse R under blocks to another PR. Climb straight up the wall above (more like grade 18 moves?) with scant protection to slab. Up and R to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and PR belay.
4) 15m Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (L-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m L on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.
Ken Grimes, Peter Kennedy, Eric Hewett 02/05/1966

Dreadnought 375m 16
Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked 'D'.
Take wires, RP’s and SLCD’s to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.
1) 50m Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.
2) 20m Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.
3) 10m Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).
4) 40m Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.
5) 35m Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.
6) 20m Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.
7) 50m Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.
8) 30m Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.
9) 30m Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.
10) 20m (crux) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.
11) 40m Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.
12) 30m Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit
Ted Cais, Mike Meadows 16/05/1970

Dreadnought VF 75m 18
1) 55m (crux) Starts at the base of Dreadnaught’s eighth pitch, where it climbs L into the groove. Don’t! Instead, veer R and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green alien, #3 peenut). Hard layaway rockover to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes med SLCD’s. Moderately up good slab to a PR in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large SLCD’s). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (PR, SLCD, wires).
2) 20m (10) Veer L up slab to join original
Darrin Carter, Mark Poole 12/08/2000

Clemency 192m 16 Start: 10m R of Rubicon on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'. Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee). A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. 1) 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear. 2) 30m (crux) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground). 3) 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on Clemency Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp. 4) 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance. 5) 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode. 6) 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track. FA Les Wood, Donn Groom 19/04/1966. FFA Unknown.	Sent From Above 12m 23 Start: On the flat vegetated ledge 5m L of the rap rings at the base of Clemency's third pitch corner. Access from there, or rap in from Halfway House. To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m L of the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m. Setting a trad anchor is possible on the ledge. Four FH's with one bouldery section to rap station. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb out (trad) on the next route. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 07/10/2006
Apricots 28m 16 Start: At the bolted belay anchor above the previous route. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice fingercrack. Climb this for about 10m then move R into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House terrace. Lee Cujes, Erik Smits 07/10/2006	The Mace 18m 22 Start: 9m R of Clemency. Marked 'M'. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation. Phil Box, Lee Cujes 22/12/2002
Alienation 18m 20 Start: 2m R. Marked 'A'. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCDs are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 22/12/2002	Divergence 20m 19 Start: 4m R directly beneath the landmark bright orange corner 60m up (Caritas climbs this). Marked 'D'. Classy and engaging. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this, then slab up to bulge and a heady little move getting to the FH. Steep corner (tiny wires) through bulge to ledge and rap station. Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn 26/10/2002
The Twisticle Connection 73m 22 Use this three route combination as a great way to access the Halfway House or as a classic undertaking in its own right. Take one set of SLCD's up to at least #2 and one set of wires. 1) 20m (19) Climb Divergence, then choose one of the following two options. 2a) 35m (17) aka Tested Twisticle (left). Step left to small layback flake and up passing 2 FH’s. From the second, head up diagonally right to right-leaning hand rail. Follow this to small ledge (‘TT right’ joins in here from the right.) Straight up (FH) to another ledge from which you can see the anchor below the obvious orange corner of Caritas. Head towards this through steeper terrain and a FH. Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin 29/10/2005 2b) 35m (18) aka Tested Twisticle (right). From the station follow the right leaning shallow diagonal corner. When this ends, swing up left a few moves (passing a FH) to a small ledge. (‘TT left’ joins in here from the left.) Straight up (FH) to another ledge from which you can see the anchor below the obvious orange corner of Caritas. Head towards this through steeper terrain and a FH. Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter 29/10/05 3) 18m (crux) Climb Caritas. Either rap to ground from here (2x50m or 1x60m rope) or continue up to the Halfway House terrace.	The Simon Vos Memorial 18m 27 Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really. Up Caritas for two bolts, then step L onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful sidepulling to ledge. Rejoin Caritas to finish. Pre-place a long quickdraw on the first bolt on the bulge. Remains unrepeated - get to it! Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders 14/10/2006
Caritas 18m 22 This is the landmark orange corner just R of Clemency’s third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. The easiest access is to either climb up to it via The Twisticle Connection, or rap in from the main rap tree on Halfway House down onto the ledge with rap station beneath base of corner (leave rap rope in place). Superb climbing. A short wall, then the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above. Seven FH’s. Either lower from the rap station, or belay up your second then scramble (roped) up onto Halfway House. Lee Cujes, Phil Box 18/12/2004