Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 13. South Face, Mt Tibrogargan

The following routes are located on the S face. Access as for Slider Wall. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. After a second much smaller rock paving, look for a small cairned foot track running R up towards the mountain. Take this and follow it for eight minutes up to the bottom of Lower Slider Wall - this is also the start of the South Face Route.

Routes in this sector will be listed R to L (walking L from Slider).

South Face Route 185m 8 Start: By climbing to the top of the Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated climb, not recommended to pure rock artists or to the inexperienced route-finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse R-ward along base of the rock face for approximately 20m. 1) 18m Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old PR to a TB. 2) 26m Continue up with a slight R trend, past more PRs following LLR to a TB. Up into bush and rubble - at this point you have two alternatives. 1: Continue on up diagonally R, through undergrowth and mank to the SE corner then bush-bash to summit. 2: Trend L on grade 1 rock until yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner. 3) 32m From a TB, traverse L across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above the yellow overhang. 4) 24m Straight up, then rock and vegetation to a wall. TB. From here scramble L along base of wall for 35m and across a small stretch of slab. 5) 40m From a TB climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a TB on the L side. Continue up the gully to a white corner. 6) 47m Up slabs adjacent to the corner for about 10m. Traverse R for another 10m then up to top. Unknown

Rain Drops 45m 14 Start: On the south face, about 200m L of the South Face Route / Slider Wall. Look for a jutting prow of white broken rock about 50m up. This route starts on tree-lined ledge, above ground level, about 15m R of the prow. 1) 15m (10) Up easy buttress with good pro to ledge with large pocket. Belay off several large SLCDs. 2) 35m (14) Trend L and up past PR and fixed RP into faint, L-leading weakness. Follow this with minimal protection to small ledge and chain. Rap off with double ropes. Gary Meyrick, Scott Lawrence 11/1999

On Bended Knee 45m 17 Start: Step onto wall from L end of RD’s start ledge. This route is a direct line to Rain Drops’ chain. 1) 15m (8) Solo up easy rock to DBB on large ledge. No pro. 2) 25m (crux) From belay, climb up to two good wires at 3m, then up trending slightly L to FH. Take obvious weakness through bulge (wires, red alien), to BR 2m above. Up and R to small ledge and RD’s chain. Rap off with double ropes. Scott Lawrence, Neil Monteith 09/1999

Better You Than Me 50m 18 Start: About 30m L of On Bended Knee at wide, low-angled crack. 1) Follow crack until it runs out and start slab climbing trending L to a BR. Easy moves to DBB. 2) From DBB, stand up and clip FH before moving L across slab past hollow flake to roof/overlap (small wires). Through (#3 RP), then weakness above on low angle wall with SLCD’s and a FH to chain. Rap off with double ropes. Scott Lawrence, Gary Meyrick 09/1999