Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 12. West Face, Mt Tibrogargan

North Face Route 85m 8 Start: At the base of the central N face. Was initialled, but we think it's worn off. A bush-bashing affair with some rock here and there. 1) 35m Almost straight up, zigzagging slightly to find LLR to a gully. TB. 2) 12m Out of the gully to the R, and up to trees. From this stance scramble unroped up sloping rock (grade 1) dotted with trees to dense undergrowth. Bush-bash straight up to a buttress and follow around to the R and up to a rock wall. 3) 20m Up a rock gully on the L to a TB. Emerge from the undergrowth to find a slab. 4) 20m (crux) Trend L up the rough slab to a TB. Scramble up L over easy rock and through undergrowth to NE shoulder. Nobody ever owned up

Felp 200m 10 Start: At the base of the NW face. Was initialled, but we think it's worn off. This route is a very indirect bush-bash with one decent rock pitch. To find this roped pitch you must climb a wide gully on mank and grade 1 rock until angle steepens at orange-yellow streaks up on the L. Traverse R along this ledge to the end. Up diagonally R on grade 1 rock to the base of Felp proper. 1) 15m Virtually straight up to a ledge and TB. Follow LLR diagonally R, then traverse R over grade 1 rock. Continue along a dirt ledge, then up. Diagonally R on grade 1 rock to scrub. Bush-bash to the summit through undergrowth and over mank and easy rock. Shane & Col Smithies 17/09/1977

West Track - - This is the tourist track, which climbs the manky face on the W side. The track starts from the National Park picnic area on the W side, and thanks to erosion is now visible from space. It requires no climbing experience and is in reality a rambly, steep bushwalk. Depending on fitness, the walk up takes 35 - 50 minutes. It is the preferred descent route for many of the multipitch routes on the E face. The rock is marked at intervals with paint, and the lower half is peppered with interpretive signs, fences and benches (and they whine about the odd bolt?). Tom Welsby 1886

Microtome 100m 14 The first known technical route on the SW corner. The SW corner of Tibro contains a relatively clean and smooth 60-degree slab. It is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from R to L, starting under a vertical section of cliff on the S face proper and ending at the tourist track halfway up the W face. This route takes a direct line up the centre of the clean slab wall and ends on this scrubby ramp (a direct continuation is possible). Descent is by easy scrambling down the ramp to the right. Pitches 1, 2, 3: Straight up middle of wall. A small overlap is surmounted near the top of the third pitch. Pleasant and delicate climbing on good rock with occasional thin-crack protection. Ted Cais, Blair Roots, Mike Meadows 24/03/1973