A Climber's Guide to the Glasshouses - 11. Shadow Glen, Mt Tibrogargan

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11. Shadow Glen, Mt Tibrogargan

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right for about 10 minutes or so.

These routes are situated on a compact wall named Shadow Glen just R of Rock Garden. The routes are a mixture of bolted and naturally protected routes on great rock. A small cave at the far R of the crag can be used as a rain shelter. The first routes are on an obvious detached pillar with FH’s.

Peeping Tom 8m 18
First route on pillar with FH near top. Boulder start to crack - up this to stance. Climb the face above past silver FH to juggy top. Tree belay. A bit dirty at start.
Neil Monteith, Stephen Monteith 07/01/1997

Kitsch 9m 22
Good stuff! Starts at same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly R to first of three black FH’s. A pronounced crux lunge will get you to the second, then it keeps you going past the final FH to top. Chains.
Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 04/02/2000

Sweet Flower Girl 10m 25
Start: 2m R of Kitsch.
Thin and technical climbing past two FHs to stance. #1 SLCD or yellow alien to chains.
Attempted by Marten Blumen, Neil Monteith 1996
FFA Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 21/05/2005

Suburban Sprawl 15m 22
Start: 2m R of Sweet Flower Girl.
A technical wake-up call. Jug up to FH. Hard moves lead to second FH. Traverse L and up to big jug. Slam in #2 flexible SLCD behind jug and climb up to crack (SLCD). Traverse R and up to chains.
Neil Monteith 24/03/1996

Suburban Sprawl Variant 15m 21
Start: As for original.
From second FH climb up and R to finish up Domestos.
FTRA Karl Curnow 16/03/1996

Domestos 15m 16
Start: 2m R of Suburban Sprawl.
Up very thin crack (good RP's) to slabby face above. Up this very boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay. Dangerous.
Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 24/03/1996

The next routes are on the main wall about 5m R of the pillar.

Vagabond 35m 15
Start: On wall about 10m R of pillar at odd looking rock face.
Up on good positive edges with marginal protection for 10m. Keep climbing upwards past cracks until on ledge with big loose block. Climb up the wall on the R side of this to slab and tree belay on L. Reasonable protection and good rock.
Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 21/04/1996

Highlander 45m 16
Start: 5m R of Vagabond and just R of scungy crack.
Up wall past FH to stance. Edge up slab above on good finger holds trending slightly R (2 FH's) until you reach the cracks. Fill these with pro then continue up easier slab above on minimal pro to final headwall finish. A small RP and various sized SLCD’s protect this last 10m. Tree belay. Average protection up a sustained slab.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 16/06/1996

Brick Boxes 20m 20
Start: 10m R of Highlander.
A tribute to urban development. Up wall to ledge. Up R side of this (FH) and crimp onto slabby face (FH). Trend L and up to stance (FH). Traverse R and up wall above passing a FH to chain. An edgy sport climb.
Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie, Karl Curnow 21/04/1996

Tribulation 25m 13
Start: At Brick Boxes' chain.
Climb wall above on marginal protection to top and tree belay. Excellent marbled rock in middle half.
Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 21/04/1996

The Black Planet 20m 20
Line of four black FH's up excellent face 2m R of Brick Boxes with a bouldery crux at the bulge. Finishes at BB's anchor. Was originally a variant of BB and was led without the first three FH's.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 11/08/1996

Flame 'N' Sparks 25m 18
Start: 4m R of TBP below obvious L leaning thin crack.
Sustained and technical - one of the best here. Up crack to top (gear) then runout traverse R and up to FH. Climb unlikely wall above (FH) on surprisingly good holds to slabby stance. Continue up past two more FH's to lower off anchor.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 14/07/1996

Brit Pop 15m 23
Start: 6m R of FS at vegetated corner.
A contrived offering. Easily climb corner for 8m until a large jug is found on the R wall. From this swing R onto wall (#1 SLCD in crack). Clip FH and edge like mad up bulging rock to anchor. Has been onsighted, but can you say sandbag?
Neil Monteith 12/04/1997

Liquid Pleasures 15m 18
Start: 3m R of BP.
Best left alone. Up the crack until it blanks out. Climb the face above on sideclings and poor RP protection to vegetated ledge and tree belay far back. A bold finish.
Neil Monteith 18/05/1996

The next three routes are on a short slabby wall about 20m L of the cave and about five metres R of LP.

Vege Abattoir 13m 14
Start: 2m L of Armageddon.
Up slab, over small roof to finish at A's chains. Rock is good but protection is non-existent.
FSA Neil Monteith 13/06/1996

Armageddon 13m 17
Start: Start 5m L of obvious curving crack (Inspiration).
Popular. Up easy edgy slab to bulge and BR. Over this with difficulty to slab and FH. Up this past 'fish bowl' jug to double rap anchor. Excellent rock.
Ana Greer, Neil Monteith 18/05/1996

Inspiration 13m 10
Start: At the big crack just R of A.
Up the crack on good pro and great rock to A's rap anchors. A perfect beginner route if clean.
Karl Curnow, Neil Monteith 21/04/1996

Peeping Tom 8m 18 First route on pillar with FH near top. Boulder start to crack - up this to stance. Climb the face above past silver FH to juggy top. Tree belay. A bit dirty at start. Neil Monteith, Stephen Monteith 07/01/1997	Kitsch 9m 22 Good stuff! Starts at same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly R to first of three black FH’s. A pronounced crux lunge will get you to the second, then it keeps you going past the final FH to top. Chains. Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 04/02/2000
Sweet Flower Girl 10m 25 Start: 2m R of Kitsch. Thin and technical climbing past two FHs to stance. #1 SLCD or yellow alien to chains. Attempted by Marten Blumen, Neil Monteith 1996 FFA Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 21/05/2005	Suburban Sprawl 15m 22 Start: 2m R of Sweet Flower Girl. A technical wake-up call. Jug up to FH. Hard moves lead to second FH. Traverse L and up to big jug. Slam in #2 flexible SLCD behind jug and climb up to crack (SLCD). Traverse R and up to chains. Neil Monteith 24/03/1996
Suburban Sprawl Variant 15m 21 Start: As for original. From second FH climb up and R to finish up Domestos. FTRA Karl Curnow 16/03/1996	Domestos 15m 16 Start: 2m R of Suburban Sprawl. Up very thin crack (good RP's) to slabby face above. Up this very boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay. Dangerous. Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 24/03/1996

Vagabond 35m 15 Start: On wall about 10m R of pillar at odd looking rock face. Up on good positive edges with marginal protection for 10m. Keep climbing upwards past cracks until on ledge with big loose block. Climb up the wall on the R side of this to slab and tree belay on L. Reasonable protection and good rock. Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 21/04/1996	Highlander 45m 16 Start: 5m R of Vagabond and just R of scungy crack. Up wall past FH to stance. Edge up slab above on good finger holds trending slightly R (2 FH's) until you reach the cracks. Fill these with pro then continue up easier slab above on minimal pro to final headwall finish. A small RP and various sized SLCD’s protect this last 10m. Tree belay. Average protection up a sustained slab. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 16/06/1996
Brick Boxes 20m 20 Start: 10m R of Highlander. A tribute to urban development. Up wall to ledge. Up R side of this (FH) and crimp onto slabby face (FH). Trend L and up to stance (FH). Traverse R and up wall above passing a FH to chain. An edgy sport climb. Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie, Karl Curnow 21/04/1996	Tribulation 25m 13 Start: At Brick Boxes' chain. Climb wall above on marginal protection to top and tree belay. Excellent marbled rock in middle half. Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 21/04/1996
The Black Planet 20m 20 Line of four black FH's up excellent face 2m R of Brick Boxes with a bouldery crux at the bulge. Finishes at BB's anchor. Was originally a variant of BB and was led without the first three FH's. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 11/08/1996	Flame 'N' Sparks 25m 18 Start: 4m R of TBP below obvious L leaning thin crack. Sustained and technical - one of the best here. Up crack to top (gear) then runout traverse R and up to FH. Climb unlikely wall above (FH) on surprisingly good holds to slabby stance. Continue up past two more FH's to lower off anchor. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 14/07/1996
Brit Pop 15m 23 Start: 6m R of FS at vegetated corner. A contrived offering. Easily climb corner for 8m until a large jug is found on the R wall. From this swing R onto wall (#1 SLCD in crack). Clip FH and edge like mad up bulging rock to anchor. Has been onsighted, but can you say sandbag? Neil Monteith 12/04/1997	Liquid Pleasures 15m 18 Start: 3m R of BP. Best left alone. Up the crack until it blanks out. Climb the face above on sideclings and poor RP protection to vegetated ledge and tree belay far back. A bold finish. Neil Monteith 18/05/1996

Vege Abattoir 13m 14 Start: 2m L of Armageddon. Up slab, over small roof to finish at A's chains. Rock is good but protection is non-existent. FSA Neil Monteith 13/06/1996	Armageddon 13m 17 Start: Start 5m L of obvious curving crack (Inspiration). Popular. Up easy edgy slab to bulge and BR. Over this with difficulty to slab and FH. Up this past 'fish bowl' jug to double rap anchor. Excellent rock. Ana Greer, Neil Monteith 18/05/1996
Inspiration 13m 10 Start: At the big crack just R of A. Up the crack on good pro and great rock to A's rap anchors. A perfect beginner route if clean. Karl Curnow, Neil Monteith 21/04/1996