Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 10. NE Buttress Sector, Mt Tibrogargan
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Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 10. NE Buttress Sector, Mt Tibrogargan |
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Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.
Sideshow Bob 247m 20
Start: 10m L of the NE Buttress route, or from access track to Shadow Glen, look for the FH at 6m on buttress past the short vertical wall where the access route meets the rock. Marked Sbo.
This is a modern incarnation of the historic NE Buttress route. It does cross the original line in several places, although the original route remains relatively undisturbed and is able to be climbed as described. Take wires, small to medium hexes and small to medium cams. If the crux proves too committing, the first four pitches are good value. Take a second rope if rapping off (all belays have FHs and mallions).
1) 28m (10) Easy climbing up buttress (grade 4), to FH at 6m (L of small tree), continue up into gully (some gear) passing another FH to DBB.
2) 30m (13) Go L off belay to FH, follow more FHs and a wire just before DBB.
3) 30m (15) Straight up following the FHs to DBB. Some loose rock on this pitch.
4) 45m (16) Nice climbing up the line of FHs (with some gear), with a tricky move around a smooth mottled rock section to DBB on ledge.
5) 20m (13) Easy climbing up R off the belay, following the FHs into a vegetated gully and up to DBB. From the belay station, one can reach the old dodgy bolt ladder or escape route of NE Buttress (refer to NE Buttress description) or otherwise head up to the start of the overhung 'Crazy Crack' of P6.
6) 30m (crux) Hard stemming moves with protection improving as you progress up the crack. When crack veers right 30 degrees, escape the nastiness by boldly stepping R onto the face, enjoying the abundant fresh air and, with a sigh of relief clip the FH, then past two more to DBB (admire old belay hardware to the R, from a bygone era).
7) 32m (16) Step L off belay to first FH, then straight up following more FHs (passing rusted relics from the past), with a cruxy move near the top. DBB belay.
8) 32m (10) Scramble up 2m to spacious ledge then walk R 10m to 5th DBB of Sunburnt Buttress, then climb p6 of SB (sparse gear) to DBB. From here you can either rap down the Caves Route or Blabbermouth, or continue to the top and walk down the hikers track (West Track).
Wayne Mieth, A Anderson 09/09/2005
The North-East Buttress 300m 11
Start: To find the start of this route, continue down and N from the start of Prometheus I for about 80m past a short vertical wall to find a vegetated gully. Marked NEB.
This route is extremely long and route finding is difficult, but it does have the merit of good rock and little vegetation.
1) 20m Easily up gully to TB.
2) 28m Up for 5m then R around the buttress below some loose blocks. Keep traversing around to the R, ascending slightly to gain a spacious ledge and natural gear belay.
3) 37m Ascend R from ledge to short wall. Traverse this to the R and above PR in block. Now ascend tending R slightly up to TB.
4) 27m Cross to the L on sloping ramp up to TB below buttress. Stance on spacious ledge.
5) 33m Straight up on good rock to PR belay below steep wall.
6) 18m Traverse R around buttress and up into a wooded gully, below a steep, yellow groove. TB. You can escape from the route here by traversing L to meet Cave 4.
7) 37m (crux). Up wall on L, traverse L over big loose block then up to yellow patch below steep wall. Up bolt ladder (originally aided) with hard moves, then traverse R below big block to BB.
8) 33m Pass under block traversing L, then straight up tending slightly R to small bush and ledge. BB.
9) 33m Straight up past mangled bolt (useless) to second BR. Delicate move past this straight up past two more mangled bolts. Gain easier ground. TB.
10) 33m Scramble out to L on sloping ledge which leads to NE shoulder.
Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy 1965
Rock Garden 225m 11
Start: About 100m R from NE Buttress below obvious large chimney (10m L of pillar with FH’s).
This route is loose and has tricky route-finding.
1) 33m Up wall below chimney. Tricky move L around overhanging flake. Move up trending diagonally L until vertical ascent can be made to the base of the chimney. Ascend chimney (narrow and strenuous) climbing out onto main rock wall when chockstone is reached. Climb onto this chockstone and continue on to top of buttress to large tree for belay.
2) 37m Vertical ascent for 8m then horizontal traverse R to seams. Straight up to a small niche/alcove, then belay off natural gear.
3) 40m Delicate move out of belay up L. Ascend until short R traverse can be made into scunge-filled crack. Ascend vertically about 7m and then traverse L, up and out of crack. Tree runner. Continue ascent through scunge until a diagonal R traverse brings you to a large TB below a blank wall.
4) 37m (crux) Climb steep ramp in front of belay tree to tree runner and ascend onto vertical wall. Climb directly over loose holds, leading to a delicate traverse on small holds. Handholds around corner of bulge lead to wide shelf and TB.
5) 40m Straight up over extremely sloping horizontal strata to ramp. Follow ramp R until you get to a TB.
6) 37m Straight up over good holds to NE shoulder.
John Tillack, Dennis Stocks 07/08/1966
Blabbermouth 200m 16
Start: L-hand corner of Sunburnt Buttress alcove (8m L of SB, before ground drops away).
1) 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. This pitch is described for historical interest only as most parties choose to climb the variant start, which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.
2) 34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay as for p2 of Sunburnt.
3) 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past two BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).
4) 20m (13) Straight up past five BRs.
5) 28m (14) step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear).
6) 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at fifth belay of Sunburnt.
7) 25m (10) As for last pitch of SB to finish on NE shoulder.
Rack: to #3 friend.
Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (alt) 03/10/2004
Start: At the L-trending crack 3m L of SB.
This is great. The best protected easy single pitch route on Tibro. All the gear is bomber in a solid crack (a rarity for Tibro). Merges with Blabbermouth's first pitch a few meters from the belay chains.
Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson 30/03/2005
Start: Start as for Rock Garden (just L of Peeping Tom pillar on Shadow Glen).
Note: Route rebolted by Safer Cliffs Queensland September 2004.
Lots of rock, bolts, and air; a Lost Boys style adventure for the masses. Bring SLCD’s 0 - 3, Wires, and helmets. Route gets sun until 3pm, hence the name!
1) 28m (18) Up Rock Garden for a few moves then climb wall on R past six FH's to U-bolt anchor.
2) 30m (15) Trend easily L across Rock Garden to FH. Keep climbing diagonally L past another four FH's, then run it out with marginal gear to small ledge and U-bolt anchor.
3) 25m (crux) Beware - lots of loose rock on this pitch. Lee copped a big falling rock on his back on the first ascent. Straight up past three FH's then traverse directly L over rotting rock past three FH's to arrive safely on ledge with U-bolt anchor. You’ll need a confident second!
4) 36m (16) Start going L then up exposed headwall with improving rock quality past seven FH's to reach U-bolt anchor.
5) 45m (14) Finally some good rock. Trend slightly R past thin cracks heading for the dead tree up high. Five FH's and some assorted small SLCD’s will get you to a large vegetated ledge and double FH belay.
6) 20m (10) Easily up wall above to arrive at bushes and the north-east summit ridge. No protection on this pitch. Double ring belay.
To descend: Rap down three pitches then rap straight down to gully and big tree. One more rap from tree will get you on the ground. Allow 1.5 hours for descent.
Neil Monteith (led all), Lee Cujes 19/03/2000
Start: Climb the first two pitches of either Blabbermouth or Sunburnt Buttress.
1) 53m (21) Follow the first four FH’s of Sunburnt until it traverses L. Instead of traversing head straight up for three more FH’s then traverse L below obvious short corner to a FH. From here go up passing five more FH’s trending R-wards. Belay is up and L from final FH. Taking half a dozen long runners is recommended to reduce rope drag on this long pitch.
2) 24m (19) Step L off belay then up passing six FH’s. Eases off in the second half.
(Pitches 2 & 3 have a couple of optional trad pieces.)
3) 32m (14) Clip a FH than gradually join the 5th pitch of Sunburnt clipping its last few FH's.
From here finish up Sunburnt’s last pitch (grade 10) to the NE shoulder OR: Alternately if rapping from here: Blabbermouth is 6 x 30m raps, or back down El Scorcho is 3 x 60m raps.
Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 19/11/2005
1) 28m As for Sunburnt Buttress.
2) 26m Start out L as for p2 of SB heading for its first BR. Don't clip it but go straight up instead. Follow corner feature passing four BR's and trad gear, stepping R at last BR to end up on ledge as for CMR belay.
3) 47m Step L from belay (BR - use longer sling). Continue L past another three BR's and yellow alien slot. Head straight up past abundant trad placements and three of four more bolts to join the last three BR's of CMR and belay at 'The Perch'.
Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 21/08/2004
1) 28m As for Sunburnt Buttress.
2) 25m Step R from SB's first belay. Up past several BR's and optional blue alien, hidden wire out L (extend). Step R to clip another BR then up trending slightly L to finish on ledge next to bush.
3) 45m step R from belay and head straight up past three BR's stepping L around the arête at the third. Continue up arête passing assorted trad placements and bolts. Finishes at 'The Perch' belay.
Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 31/07/2004