Home > The Guide > Mt Tibrogargan > 1. Slider, Mt Tibrogargan

The next routes are located on the walls of the South Face Route gully. The best way to access this area is directly from the E-face carpark. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. After a second much smaller rock paving, look for a small cairned foot track running R up towards the mountain. Take this and follow it for eight minutes up to the bottom of Lower Slider Wall. Most routes are sport climbs and all have lower-offs. It's a great shady place to hang out on a hot summer afternoon.

Lower Slider Wall

The Fires of Jealousy 25m 10 Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. Up passing two FH's (opt. trad in between) then go L and up another three FH's. Trad gear and another two FH's to anchor. Pleasant climbing up good rock. Gareth Llewellin 23/12/2004	Blowing Bubbles 15m 17 Start: At base of gully below rounded aręte. Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM). Scott Lawrence, Gary Meyrick 19/12/1999
You Win Some You Lose Some 15m 27 Four FH's and some finger-shredding pain. Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible. Russell Bright, Peta Barrett 15/06/2007	Monkey Magic 10m 23 Start: 5m R. Thin crimping up the steep, pock-marked face with four FH’s. Step L to anchor (shared with BB). Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick 06/1999
Magictrip 16m 23 A link-up. Start up Monkey Magic for its first three FH then keep crimping up and R to FH and then finish up Tripitaka. Seven or eight FH's. Ross Ferguson 21/01/2007

The next three climbs start off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

Tripitaka 14m 23 More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P). Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 05/11/2004	Pigsy 12m 21 Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts. R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal 31/10/2004
Something About Sandy 12m 19 Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. Five FH's to anchor. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 31/10/2004	The Minx And The Slug 12m 23 Start: at Something About Sandy. Reversy-traversy. Clip its first FH with a extra long runner then step down and crimp your way L across Pigsy, Tripitaka and Monkey Magic following the line of near horizontal bolts to finish at the Blowing Bubbles' chains. Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn 21/01/2007
The Horse 12m 16 OK climbing past one FH, medium cam, small wire then head L clipping the last two bolts of SOS. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 05/11/2004	Such A Nice Monster 15m 15 Start: A further 10m up the gully. Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM. G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson 28/11/2004
Monster Master 20m 24 A link-up. Start up SANM to third FH then climb R across TMMM into EMCBP and finish up last two FH's of TVM. Quite sustained crimping. Ross Ferguson, Bill Strachan 13/04/2007	The Most Monstrous Monster 13m 21 ..of a jug! Escapable to the L in one spot, but still quite good. Same anchor as SANM. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 27/11/2004
Even Monsters Can Be People 14m 24 The line of seven silver FH's up a R-tending face. One reachy move provides the difficulty, so subtract a grade if you're 6ft, or add a grade if you're under 5'8". Chains as for TVM. Ross Ferguson 10/12/2005	The Vampire Master 10m 24 Start: R of TMMM. Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds. Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin 30/04/2005
A Shadow So Huge 10m 21 Start: Left of Outrageous Coincidences. Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain. Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn 21/01/2007	Outrageous Coincidences 8m 22 Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully (head out R to fixed rope if you want to get to Upper Slider). One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 27/11/2004

Upper Slider Wall
Scramble carefully further up the gully (utilising some fixed rope along the way) until you hit the next routes on the obvious overhung L wall. To make the descent down the gully safer (particularly in the wet), the boys have installed a rap station in the scrub 10m L of Procrastinator (doubled 50m ropes required to get all the way to the bottom of the gully).

Check out the Upper Slider Wall Topo.

Procrastinator 17m 22 The L-most route on Upper Slider wall. A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 22/12/2004	Procrastislider 18m 22 A link-up combining the best of both routes. Up Procrastinator for two bolts, then up the Arapiles rock past a FH to join Slider at the ledge. Finish as for Slider. Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson 31/08/2007
Procrastihowler 20m 24 A link-up. Bolts one and two (long) of Procrastinator, bolts two and three of Slider, bolts three (long), four and five of Squealer, bolt four of Madder, finishing up bolts three, four and five of Howler. A good endurance pumper - don't run out of quickdraws! Lee Cujes 12/03/2005	Procrastiwailer 23m 26 A big diagonal link-up. Bolts one and two (long) of Procrastinator, bolts two and three of Slider, bolts three (long), four and five of Squealer, bolt four of Madder, bolt three of Howler, finishing up bolts four and five of Wailer. Lee Cujes 16/04/2005
The Forty Metre Mile 40m 28 20 clip super link-up. As for Procrastwailer into Hybrid Vigour, traversing R to Overseer at the SLCD. Need 20+ quickdraws (many extended). A 60m rope will just get you down on stretch. Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes 04/02/2006	Slider 16m 22 Start: 3m R of Procrastinator (before rock slab starts rising R-wards). Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air. Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue 28/11/2004
Swinger 19m 18 Start: Below Squealer with some cams in a horizontal. A link-up. Clip Squealer's first two bolts (use long sling on second), traverse L clipping the fourth bolt on Slider and pull onto ledge. Trav L further, then up clipping the fifth and sixth bolts on Procrastinator to its anchor. There is also a small wire before the fifth bolt on Procrastinator if you really want. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 26/02/2005	Squealer 16m 23 Start: From the first raised platform. A direct start added to the great original finish of Squealer makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler). Gareth Llewellin, Lee Cujes 16/01/2000. Gareth added DS 26/02/2005
Madder 15m 25 Start: Just R of Squealer. Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses. Gareth Llewellin 12/03/2005	Howler 16m 24 Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth’s done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously. Gareth Llewellin 12/12/1999
Wailer 16m 25 Start up Howler heading R after the first bolt. Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the Howler ledge (shares H's anchor). Wowler is a variant which heads L after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 26/06/2004	Hybrid Vigour 24m 27 What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25? Up Wailer til its last bolt but then traverse R for 3m into the business end of The Final Piece, finishing up this. If you step R into DP and finish up this, you have Pinocchio's Extension (27). Gareth Llewellin 20/05/2005
The Final Piece 17m 25 Start: At the big corner R of Wailer. Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position! Gareth Llewellin 04/04/2005	Doctor Pinocchio 20m 24 Start: Up TFP until it is obvious to move R and onto RH line of bolts. Optional #1- #1.5 friend at the top. Use TFP anchor. Russel Bright, Ross Ferguson 11/06/2008
Overseer 30m 21 Start: At the big corner R of Wailer. Long and pumpy climbing with great views. Two bolts up the corner (yuk) to ledge. Don't climb straight up (25!), instead, walk 4m R up the ledge and clip first bolt from big holds. Follow the line of bolts up a steepening wall with a few incred-o-buckets along the way. About 10 quickdraws and a 60m rope are needed. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 04/04/2005

Slider Buttress
Back on ground level, this buttress opposite the start of Lower Slider Wall contains three routes which all go to the same anchor.

What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman 8m 22 Start: 5m L of the tree. Ridiculously short but good. Three bolts. Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson 20/11/2004	Monkey Swallows The Universe 15m 14 Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the aręte. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires. Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin 20/11/2004
Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven 20m 12 Start: 5m down R of MSTU. Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to aręte. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain. Gareth Llewellin 23/12/2004

Not part of Slider proper, access the following two routes by walking 50m right along the base of the cliffs at the bottom of Slider.

Brannigan's Law 15m 21 Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off. Ryan Castel 2005

Robot Devil 15m 19 Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top. Ryan Castel 2005