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Fixed Protection

Exercise extreme caution when using any of the fixed protection found anywhere in the Glasshouses. In particular, keep an eye out for the following things:

• Rusty bolts and pitons.
• Cracked or flaky bolts.
• Bolts that droop.
• Bolts that stick out from the rock.
• Routes where some of the bolts have fallen out.
• Rust streaks running down the rock below a bolt.
• Bolts that are deformed (eg. bent hangers, dented bolt heads etc.). Vandals are active at some of the crags included in this guide.
• Bolts that are loose in any way (including those that can be twisted).
• Bolts that have a hole that, at the surface of the rock, is larger than the shaft of the bolt.
• Ring bolts whose welded join is cracked or has come apart.
• Rock that is cracked or loose near a bolt.
• Fixed slings.

• Be aware that altering the rock (i.e. drilling a hole) is forbidden in the Glasshouses, and rangers have the right to confiscate drills and hand out fines.
• Never retrobolt! Retrobolting means adding fixed protection to a climb that has been climbed previously. If you do retrobolt a route in the Glasshouses, you can be rest assured your added protection will be removed.
• Never place any on Mt Coonowrin, Flat Battery Wall (Mt Ngungun) or Owl Pillar (Mt Ngungun).
• Don't place anything unless you are experienced and have received training.
• Use only high quality (A4-70 or A4-80 grade) stainless steel. Never compromise.
• Use bolts with a shaft diameter of at least 10mm (this includes BRs, FHs and RBs).
• Place all bolts at least 90mm into the rock.
• BRs should be hex headed, between 15mm and 17mm across the flat sides of the head.
• BRs with 17mm heads should have their corners rounded off to ensure all brands of bolt bracket fit onto them properly. Do NOT round off 15mm headed bolts, since it then becomes possible for bolt plates to fall off.
• FHs should have the same grade stainless steel for both the bolt and the hanger (to minimise galvanic action).
• Expansion bolts can only be safely placed on Tibro and Dwarfland. The rock is too soft elsewhere. Use glue-in's instead.
• For glue-in's, the glue must be designed for anchoring in stone and exceed the UIAA draft standard for rock anchors. Capsules do not work effectively, so don't even bother trying.
• The shafts of all glue-in bolts should be grooved or threaded for at least three quarters of their length, to ensure a strong bond between the glue and the bolt.
• Only use RBs that have been professionally manufactured. It is notoriously difficult to weld stainless steel properly!
• Don't place cold shuts (a type of lower off common in the US).
• If replacing fixed protection on an existing route, consult with the first ascentionist first. If that is not possible, contact me. 

Queensland now has a Safer Cliffs group operating. The mission of Safer Cliffs Queensland is replace dangerous fixed anchors such as sun damaged slings, worn abseil anchors and rusty bolts so that the climb is as safe as on its first ascent. For more information and to find out how you can donate to the cause or lend a hand, visit the Safer Cliffs Queensland website.

These guidelines are by no means complete, and will not guarantee that any fixed protection you place will be safe. If you are seriously thinking about placing fixed protection, do everyone a favour and make sure you know what you're doing before you start. There are numerous pitfalls when installing bolts, and making a mistake could kill you or your friends.