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Redcliffs
This area will be fully profiled
in an upcoming issue of qurank.
Mythologica 30m 19
[image]
A fine face climb up a sustained slab. Start on the sloping terrace beneath
the slab (location details here). Probably easiest to rap in. Crank onto the
face passing a FH and gear. Up black rock on good edges passing second FH and gear to a rest. Directly up to the third FH, then great face moves on
solid stone to the last FH. Think your way through the technical crux tending R and up to thankfully plug gear in the breaks. Traverse R into the
crackline, and follow this to the top (tree). Take a full rack including
many small cams and wires.
Lee Skidmore, Phil Box 22/10/2000
Send In The Clowns 20m 16
Awesome positions, exposure and gear - a must-do! (Walk or rap in...location
details here.) Belay off natural gear (#3.8 cam, #1 cam, #7 wire, green alien) on the small ledge at the base of the crackline L of guano-stained
corner. Climb easily until the wide section narrows to a superb off-finger
crack up the green slab. Climb this using the one great hand jam (crux) to
ledge. Traverse L out onto the beautifully exposed orange prow posing for photos, then monkey up the buckets to the big tree on the ledge.
Lee Skidmore, Geoff Parker 22/10/2000
Located about 30m R of SITC, the next route is approached easily by walking down and around from the L side (facing out) of the cliff, staying high and walking under some low roofs to reach a niche. The route climbs the middle of the L wall.
Tranquillity 10m 17 [image]
Short and sweet face climbing up a cracked and pocketed wall on natural gear. Tricky start. Lay off with desperate smearing and the odd finger pocket to first horizontal break. Place a #1 SLCD and power through on crimps and small edges to good pockets and a small wire. Now it's easy face climbing with pockets and small edges on small-medium cams and small wires to the top. The detached block above makes a great belay seat.
Stephen Parker, Brian Moes, Geoff Parker 22/10/2000 |