Redcliffs

This area will be fully profiled in an upcoming issue of qurank.

Mythologica 30m 19 [image]

A fine face climb up a sustained slab. Start on the sloping terrace beneath the slab (location details here). Probably easiest to rap in. Crank onto the face passing a FH and gear. Up black rock on good edges passing second FH and gear to a rest. Directly up to the third FH, then great face moves on solid stone to the last FH. Think your way through the technical crux tending R and up to thankfully plug gear in the breaks. Traverse R into the crackline, and follow this to the top (tree). Take a full rack including  many small cams and wires.
Lee Skidmore, Phil Box 22/10/2000

Send In The Clowns 20m 16

Awesome positions, exposure and gear - a must-do! (Walk or rap in...location details here.) Belay off natural gear (#3.8 cam, #1 cam, #7 wire, green alien) on the small ledge at the base of the crackline L of guano-stained corner. Climb easily until the wide section narrows to a superb off-finger crack up the green slab. Climb this using the one great hand jam (crux) to ledge. Traverse L out onto the beautifully exposed orange prow posing for photos, then monkey up the buckets to the big tree on the ledge. 
Lee Skidmore, Geoff Parker 22/10/2000

 

Located about 30m R of SITC, the next route is approached easily by walking down and around from the L side (facing out) of the cliff, staying high and walking under some low roofs to reach a niche. The route climbs the middle of the L wall.

Tranquillity 10m 17 [image]
Short and sweet face climbing up a cracked and pocketed wall on natural gear. Tricky start. Lay off with desperate smearing and the odd finger pocket to first horizontal break. Place a #1 SLCD and power through on crimps and small edges to good pockets and a small wire. Now it's easy face climbing with pockets and small edges on small-medium cams and small wires to the top. The detached block above makes a great belay seat.
Stephen Parker, Brian Moes, Geoff Parker 22/10/2000

 

Frog Buttress

 

Dangerously Sane 23m 22

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.
Matt Hutton, Danny Rose 11/1997

 

Rocky Bay, Magnetic Island

Why Aren't They Naked VS 21
Start just L of original climb. Desperate thin moves up to jugs, then traverse R to join original climb.
Steve Baskerville 29/10/00

 

West End Quarry

Ants Pants 15m 15

When moving into Area Three of the quarry look to your right and you will see a pillar with a large bulbous looking top. Look for the crack that leads up the centre, follow this up until you see the hollow triangle, you need to make sure you place protection in before moving onto the hollow triangle in the rock. Continue up this until you come to a small ledge. Look slightly R and you will see the fine edge of the bulbous top. Follow the fine edge up till you get to the top. Ensure you have a #3 or #4 SLCD for the belay. Take small wires. 

David Webb, Paul Mackenzie 09/11/2000