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"Not
your average car-stealing hoobles"
Over a period of about six months, during the course
of development of the two new aid routes Agitator and Cuddles on the upper overhangs on Mt Beerwah, 330m of rope, 10-12
biners, a few pitons, bolt plates, and cordalette were stolen off the routes.
In the course of establishing such long and demanding routes, it was necessary to leave fixed ropes and gear on the routes to facilitate the climbers being able to quickly jug back up to their high point each time. To try to avoid this, the climbers (Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin and Scotty Lawrence) wrapped the bottom of the ropes around the tops of trees, then downclimbed the trees. No luck - the thieves climbed the trees and got the ropes, jugging up two pitches (!!) to unattach the ropes, steal any gear they could on the way, and rap off. After this happened the first time, the guys decided to tie the ropes about 10-15m up off the deck attached to a piton. Again, the thieves either managed to solo, or did some aiding themselves to reach the ropes and repeat the procedure. (con't...)
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(...con't)
Now, these obviously aren't your average car-stealing hoobles. These thieves are climbers with climbing gear and the ability to jug and set up raps on a wall, and the commitment to do the walk up Beerwah with the pure intent of stealing other climbers gear. I thought the climbing community was pretty close-knit, and I still think it is, but we've got to be on the lookout for these kind of wankers (and if found, beat them severely with a #11 hex).
If
people screw around with the guys that are putting up new routes, they're tempering any desire
these guys have to put up routes for you to enjoy. Has anyone heard of some climbers mysteriously acquiring a bunch of rope or gear? If anyone has any information, please forward it to me at
lee@qurank.com.
--LS
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Get Lost!
Local hardman Duncan Steel and visiting Blue Mountains climber, Julian Bell recently
repeated the epic Lost Boys on Mt. Warning's Wollumbin Shield. The
route was originally climbed by Tim Balla, with various partners including
the legendary Malcolm Matheson (HB).
Steel and Bell's is is allegedly only the second ascent of this 568m climb, and the first ground up ascent. The
route is 15 pitches long, most in the 20-24 range with widely-spaced
carrot bolts giving fearsome runouts. Duncan and Julian completed the climb in
two days despite strong winds and lichen-covered holds. Congratulations
guys.
--Originally reported by
Lorna Hepburn (BRC) at
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/6530/
newsletter.html
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Viewpoint Tree Strangling
Some well-intentioned climbers (not the usual Darrin Carter) have placed a number of Save-The-Tree anchors above some routes on
Viewpoint Buttress at Mt Maroon. However, they are so tight that the trees have no room to grow, and the D-shackles are literally being pulled apart, and unfortunately, will have to be removed and replaced.
Climbers wishing to place these types of anchors are cautioned to leave at least 300-400mm slack in the chain, to care for the tree, and ensure the safety and longevity of the anchor.
--LS
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North Queensland's Hardest
Problem?
On July 21 2000 on his first and only day to the
area, Brisbane-based climber Aaron Jones established what is potentially
North Queensland's hardest boulder problem at Harvey's Marbles north of
Townsville.
Weighing in at V6, Mike Delta X-Ray begins
with a huge dyno off the ground to the sloping lip of a smooth, overhung
boulder, which then must be mantled to top out. Committing, uncontrived
and very classy.
The problem that previously held the 'hardest' title
was Doug Hockly's technical slab Reeven V5/6 (pictured on the cover
of qurank #5).
--LS
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Above:
Aaron Jones on Mike Delta X-Ray V6
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Frog Roadblock
On Friday the 8th of September, Frog
Buttress was closed due to extreme fire danger. To enforce the closure,
the road was blocked, presumably by Park officials. Too bad for the
carloads of people who made the trip out on Friday night and Saturday.
Some (like Jason Selman and Troy Coleman) went home, some (like Steve
Parker, Aaron Jones and myself) continued on to Girraween, and some (like
Phil Box and Pat Simon) went to Mt Maroon, and then in desperation, Mt Barney
only to find both shut as well.
--LS
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The Darrin Files
Over the last few months, Darrin Carter
has done so much crag and route maintenance that I figured I'd group it
all together, categorised by location.
| Urbenville
Maintenance of Battery Hill (aka The Pines) at Urbenville. Replacing of dodgy bolts on
Matt The Energizer Man (15) and the removal and replacement of the station to a stance five metres lower to reduce rope damage.
Ginger And Treacle (19) now sports its own set of rap chains.
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| Frog
Buttress
There has been a new Save-The-Tree anchor above the wall route
Oppenheimers Monster. The Save-The-Tree anchor placed above
Epic Journey in June 1997 was recently stolen, and has been replaced. The Save-The-Tree anchor on
The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine has been renewed.
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| Kangaroo
Point
Hanger Wall
now sports rings at the top to avoid the scramble out. These rings will serve both
Hanger Wall, and the free route Hanger Wall
Arête which will be re-equipped soon (some bolts were chopped after the original ascent). A dodgy bolt was removed from the top of the route (adding a hook move for shorties), but was replaced after a few people on the forum kicked up a stink
(read it
here).
Cucumber Castle has been rebolted. The route now has three FH's, followed by a lovely ring, to a double ring station (one new).
Work on other routes may be ongoing over the next month or so.
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| Mt
Tibrogargan
The rap station just below the Cave 1 on the
Caves Route on Mt Tibrogargan had components stolen from it. It has now been replaced by Darrin Carter. There is also now a station above Cave 1 which allows for a 25m rap into the cave itself (tape currently, but will have chain soon). Even though it is possible for confident climbers to downclimb the route with packs on, this addition will help to make the
Caves Route a more popular and safer descent route from The Scrub.
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| How
can you help?
An easy way to help out with these efforts
is by donating some cash. Most climbers know about the
tree-moneybox in the climbing section of K2. Many don't know this
is Darrin's box (not K2s) and any funds you put in here goes
directly into the Save-The-Tree anchor programme.
For larger sums, it's best to write a money
order or cheque made out to Darrin Carter. Depending on your
preference as to what you'd like to see, send it to either:
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Attention: Darrin Carter
Save-The-Tree Anchors
PO Box 149
Fortitude Valley 4006 Q |
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Attention: Darrin Carter
Climb Maintenance
PO Box 149
Fortitude Valley 4006 Q |
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