Urbenville

Yellow Brick Road 25m 20 [image]
14m L of notch at Battery Hill (see guide). Generic, but clean slab climbing past three black FH's to the base of bulge, which sports the final two FH's. This overhung section hosts a vital, deep two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at chain links at small stance. Note: to preserve the gear, only lower (or preferably rap) off the rings -- top rope off quickdraws please.
Lee Skidmore, Stephen Parker, Erik Smits 3/9/2000

 

Mt Tibrogargan

On Bended Knee 40m 16
This is the direct line leading to Rain Drops’ chain as discussed in qurank #4.
1) 15m (8) Traverse a bit L up bumbly rock to DBB on ledge.
2) 25m (crux) From belay climb up to two good wires at 3m, then up trending slightly L to FH. Up though obvious line through bulge (wires, red alien). Pull bulge (crux) to BR 2m above. Head up and R to small ledge (chains).
Scotty Lawrence, Aaron Jones 25/8/2000

Dreadnaught VF 75m 18
1) 55m (crux) Starts at the point where Dreadnaught climbs L into the groove. Don't. Instead, veer R and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green alien, #3 peenut). Hard layaway rockover to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes medium SLCD's. Moderately up good slab to a PR in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large SLCD's). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (PR, SLCD, wires).
2) 20m (10) Veer L up slab to join original.
Darrin Carter, Mark Poole 12/8/2000

 

Mt Beerwah

The Underworld
Development of this area has been taking place for the last 12 months principally by Mike Cook, and more recently with Darrin Carter. Several stations have been installed above promising lines, with three full routes completed to date. Located on a terrace 70m off the ground, this area has a good feel, with generally well-protected climbing on good rock in an airy situation. To access, easily solo the first two pitches of West Beerwah. Please respect that this area is still under development with the obvious unclimbed lines in 'project' status. Just do the three completed routes for now.

Kenny Moans 125m 17
1) 30m (17) From the ledge, there is a L-facing corner with large crack in it (3m from corner in wall). That's the start. Up the slanting crack (good gear). R to good stance (BR). Committing moves up to horizontal break (small and technical, but good gear). Good and interesting moves up increasingly positive features to next horizontal (small to med gear). Veer R slightly up crazy cracks to where it begins to ease, then slightly L and onto ledge. DBB and small trees. 
2) 40m (crux) Move through trees up gully, then veer L onto ledge. Step L again into obvious open groove. Climb groove to a step R onto aręte of groove, then a solid move to a stance and BR. Stay on aręte and follow it to a L facing corner. Medium and small SLCD, then a cruxy move to continue up corner, then move L into large fantastic cave. Floor crack for belay, or use chain belay further on. Can escape off here. Be sure to take a #2 camalot size to protect crux.
3) 50m (14) Leave the cave and continue up same corner onto sloping ramp with trees. The slab is covered in small, egg-sized chickenheads. Will have some fixed pro soon, but is currently leadable, although a tad bold.
Mike Cook & Kenny 1999

Project ~23 - Mike Cook
3m L of Kenny Moans. Corner then striking fingercrack.

Unknown name ~19
Details are sketchy as it's just been completed. 8m L of Kenny Moans. Beautiful thin face to small cave with small ribs in it. Out of cave, then brilliant wide bridging above. 
Darrin Carter 9/2000

Vulcan 55m 15
Need a long rope, or a good second who can climb a bit off the belay. 25m L of Kenny Moans at good looking pockety crack in a L-facing corner. Veer up passing good hexes and wires to interesting stand-up move (balance) on good feet (BR). Up passing hexes and good medium SLCD's following the good line, then up the nice crack to a balancy move L onto a stance (PR in pocket - bring 70cm of tape to go through the eye to avoid crossloading 'biner). Hard smeary move over a bulge to a fantastic incut jug. Haul over, then a step R to horizontal break (PR). Up, with some mild zigzagging to stance (BR). Angle eases and the pro spaces out (large nuts and medium hexes). Straight up to nest of gear, then diagonally R across the slab to gear, then up the line to grassy ledge. Walk R 4m to chains. Rap. If careful, two 50m ropes will get you down on stretch.
Darrin Carter, Mike Cook 16/8/2000

 

Brooyar

The Big Bad Wolf 15m 22/23
The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip (no pikers!), and finish hands-free on the ledge.
Anchor yet to be placed, but probably easiest cleaned by back climbing the route.
Chris Coghill 15/7/2000

 

Mt Stuart

Little Birdman 20m 20
Start up Eye Of The Tiger until about 3.5m below the obvious chockstone and at an undercling flake/pockets in the L wall. Make committing moves L and follow the flake system (small wires) to join the final moves of Two Hands Are Better Than One at the last BR on that route.
Madoc Sheehan 26/8/00

Lost In The Land Of Grimm 40m 16
Could be pretty evil. Rik says "not a classic by any stretch of the imagination". 45m directly below Happy Wanderer. To access, rap down in front of Avalon as for Jack's Beanstalk. Once down, go to LH side of the blank face to grassy crack. Follow crack until it almost intersects a LH diagonal crack. Traverse R and continue up this crack until gear fades. Traverse L, then R across exposed face to good gear, then up, hunting for gear as you go. Take lots of nuts and RP's.
Rik Wittkopp (onsight), Chris Noon 5/7/2000

Lookout Wall
Go to the picnic area in front of the radio station and look for a plaque set in a rock on the other side of the front fence. Jump the fence and follow the track to the obvious hump of rock perched on the edge. Access the ledges below by rapping off good SLCD's - leave rope in place as an escape route.

Shaw Thing 13m 22
Rik took an absolute pearler on this one - almost ending up back at the belay! Rap off Lookout Wall to a ledge 20m down, just below tangled vine growing out of middle of face. This route takes the LH crack of the face. Traverse off belay ledge across gully to start of climb (small SLCD). Now - up! Finish at ledge with chains. Gear is good in bottom two thirds, but dodgy up top. A #5 wire deep in a large pocket before the crux is critical. Could be soft at 22.
Rik Wittkopp, Jason Shaw 25/6/2000

 

West End Quarry

Toby's Mum 14m 19
A TR route off Basalt Assault's chains (use quickdraws on chain to reduce wear). Start 4m L of Basalt Assault with a layback hanging L from the granite xenolith. Layback up xenolith slab to a mantle shelf. Undercling, traversing R off mantle shelf on small footholds. Dyno L to nice jug. Step R onto xenolith and straight up on extremely fingery holds to finish 1m L of BA's chains.
FTRA Chris Bell, Matt Brown 23/6/00