Climbing Vegas

By Robbie Ringland

I went to visit my friend Rachel in Santa Cruz, California, recently. I met Rachel a couple of years ago whilst climbing at Owens River Gorge. I just wanted a few weeks away, to ride my mountain bike, do some climbing and generally take in the American scene. Unfortunately it rained a lot in the first couple of weeks which meant lots of visits to the Pacific Edge climbing gym and of course after cranking yourself fingerless it's only a short walk across the road to the Seabright Brewery Pub where you have to sample the oatmeal stout. 

The next weekend was fine and it was off to Pinnacles National Monument, where you seem to be climbing on vertical walls of gravel. My favourite climb here is Wall Street, at only 5.7 (about 15) the fun comes with the 5-foot roof and headwall at the top. Back to Santa Cruz and a couple of days work for Rachel, until Wednesday evening, when we were heading to Las Vegas. We added another team member, Caroline, and we would take turns at the nine-hour drive south, over Tehachapi Pass to Barstow then north to Vegas. We arrived at 4am and it seemed like we could see the glow of the city for hours before we got there. We were to be staying with Dottie who I had also met at Owens. Very social place that, (social climbers?). Dottie was to be our host, our climbing guide, our wellspring of information of any climb at Red Rock Canyon and also managed to get us complimentary VIP passes to the MGM Grand Buffet. Any way, after a couple of hours sleep, we piled into Dottie’s Rav- 4 and headed for Icebox Canyon. My first climb was Van Allen Bands, a 5.7 that traverses across a slab onto and up the arête with exciting exposure. The rock reminded me of Brooyar. Next was Shady Lady, a straightforward 5.7. Then came Cold September Corner (pictured right), a 5.8 going on 5.10. Beginning up the face, to under the 10 foot roof sort of chimney, a No.3 friend, push your shoulders against the wall, your feet against the sort of detached wall and start wiggling out. About halfway, whack a No.4 in and keep wiggling 'til you can reach above for jugs, then cut loose and crank up. Whew! You’re now about halfway up the climb. The thin hard part comes next! Next day we went to Rodeo Wall. Most of Red Rocks is sandstone but Rodeo Wall is a newly developed limestone sport crag. We spent the day here with a rack of draws crimping up to 5.11. The climbs are so new they’re not even named. More privileged information from Dottie!

Above: Interesting position! Robbie on Cold September Corner (5.8)

The next day was to be our biggest, an eight pitch climb - Froglands at Black Velvet Canyon also home to such classics as Rock Warrior a 2000ft 5.10 adventure. With an hour drive, and a 45 minute walk in I was on the first pitch by 8am. Dottie had to work that day, so Rachel, Caroline and I swapped leads, which was OK, until the three of us were crammed onto a tiny belay stance resulting in a big rope tangle. After sorting that out, with feet gone numb and shivering from the cool breeze, I stumbled across a smooth slab to reach the arête...huge exposure, the ground miles below and the black pyramid of Luxor visible in stark contrast. We topped out as the sun dipped below the canyon rim and then slithered down to our packs and staggered back to the car for warm beer. 

The next day was sport climbing at Stonewall, a blur of tired fingers, desperate clips and unwilling bodies. At 5pm it was hurried goodbyes and then we were leaving Las Vegas to battle 40 mph desert winds and dice with racing semis over Tehachapi Pass. Unbelievably we made it safely back to Santa Cruz at 2:30am and I knew that for this time at least, my American adventures were over. Now if I can somehow make it to Joshua Tree...

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