Crookneck - the saga continues

 

Hey Crookneckers,

We (The Palsson family) recently received a few replies from the Minster's Office, I'll try and rustle up scanner girl to get them online for me, but basically they are trying to fob us off to Seamus Conway, acting manager for Sunshine Coast region QPWS. 

Don't be discouraged, Send a letter to Mr Conway by all means, but he has no authority to revoke the closure (he can only give out permits**). Only the minister can revoke the closure, and only by continued action.

This will probably be a lengthy battle people, don't get discouraged.

Yours sincerely,
Karl Palsson
CRAG webdude

** It is my opinion that we should not be asking for permits to climb/walk/admire Crookneck. It is a national park whose closure we protest, requesting a permit shows our acceptance of the new rules.

Make sure to check out the CRAG homepage at http://www.tweak.webcentral.com.au/uqrc/crookneck
or mail CRAG at crag@tweak.webcentral.com.au

Blue Mountains Trip Report

Well school's started and that's ended my best holidays so far. I ended up going to Blueys and it rocked!

Some highlights was my onsight of Madge McDonald (25), some other 25's with 1 rest and heaps of very enjoyable 21's, 22's and 23's.

Also I tried to onsight Untouched (27) but due to me not thinking moves through, I needed two falls to get it (I was only there two days so I didn't have time to try it again).

I tried Touch And Go (28) but first attempt it was cold (so I dodgly got up it). Second attempt once it warmed up I got it with couple of falls and a weighted rope for the crux moves. 

I've decided to move there once school finishes. The comp [at Wagga Wagga - Ed.] was good. It was again the same guys as the X-Games but due to the fact I've spent all of the holidays climbing (after the games that is) I had improved heaps and managed to get fourth. The guy that got third just held a hold and I slapped it. 

Anyway it was fun and I hope to go to Blueys at Easter.

--Glen Foley (local SE Queensland junior competitor)

5/2/2000

Henry Barber Returns!

You heard it here first. The legendary Henry Barber who blew away the entire country by establishing the hardest routes in the country during his 1975 Australian whirlwind tour is back.

It was a mid-40's Barber, sporting a pot-belly that hosted a slide show at a Patagonia store in Melbourne recently, to a crowd of about 60 including Rock Magazine editor Chris Baxter and local Queenslanders Neil Monteith and Cameron Fairbairn. 

Neil and Cameron indulged in about an hour of hero-worship with the big man himself, and discovered that although here on a family holiday, Henry had been climbing in Townsville, and done a bunch of routes at Magnetic Island, Kissing Point, and Mt Stuart.

Another interesting point is that even now, Henry refuses to use cams when climbing.

Barber is still in the country and we'll keep you up to date with his efforts when more specifics are known.

--LS

Kangaroo Point Clean-Up Report

The Brisbane Rockclimbing Club's annual clean up of the Kangaroo Point cliffs was again a great success, with media coverage helping to show our efforts to the wider community. 

This year we had 25 volunteers, made up of BRC members, members of the QUT climbing club, other users of Kangaroo Point and the general public. Thanks to everyone who contributed their time and energy. 

We were able to clean along the entire top and bottom of the climbing area, removing litter and loose rocks, to make the cliffs cleaner and safer. We should all appreciate the efforts of the volunteers, many of whom have given up their time in previous years. Everyone who uses Kangaroo Point benefits from this work - it would be good to see more BRC members making the effort next year.


--Extract from BRC April 2000 newsletter at http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/6530

/newsletter.html

Climbing on Acid

As mentioned in issue #4, the route Acid on Mt Ngungun had somewhat of a makeover. Even more has now been done. We now cross live to Neil Monteith with the story: 

"Well, I just spent the day at my old haunt, Ngungun in the Glasshouse Mountains. Just the other day, I replaced the first four bolts with rings, on my nemesis Acid and today I was at it again. Yes, it is just as hard as I remembered and no, I didn't get up it. I went with Cameron [Fairbairn] and we both had several goes but failed miserably. We both got stumped at the last bolt, and think the move is solid 27. Up to that point it is nice and sustained grade 25. The new big shiny rings are awesome (thanks Kathy for helping me!). I also unscrewed the crusty carrot bolts from my school years (they came out with ease!).

So, the route is now Cameron's and anybody else who wants to help him. He is mega keen to work it over winter when the friction is perfect, and the rain stops. Lets hope it gets done. I leave for Melbourne on Monday - Centurion Walls here I come!"

--Neil Monteith

Tropical Monsoon

Due to a wet season that seems to be going on forever, development early this year has been fairly slow in the Townsville region. At Mt Stuart only a few new routes have been added, the best of which include High Noon 19 by Rick Wittkopp, and Stuttering Ego 22 by Steve Baskerville. High Noon climbs the face just R of UFO 19 past 4 FH, while Stuttering Ego takes the obvious arête and face just R of Slippery When Wet 21, past 3 FH. Jason Shaw has had some promising attempts at the open project left by Doug Hockly on the steep wall just R of Holiday. The route, which should go at somewhere around 26/27, overhangs about 2.5m in its 10m height, and builds to a powerful gaston crux above the last bolt. If completed it would be a contender for hardest route in the region, and most likely be the hardest route on the Mountain.

The only other development has been at the newly developed Harvey's Marbles. Dozens of new problems have been added by only a handful of regular climbers in a relatively short period of time, to take the total number of problems to about 160. The best new problems added so far this year include the thin and reachy Marriage Vows V1 at the Cow Paddock and the scary Mother-Figure V2 at the Misty Place, both by Madoc Sheehan. Other classics added were Elegance V0, and Mr Bastard V4 by Jason Shaw and Wake Up Call V2 and Meatmincer V3 by Steve Baskerville. A guide to about half the areas is available at the North Queensland Bouldering home page.

--Steve Baskerville

New Gym Opening May 20

The Spot Youth Centre, located in Browns Plains, has recently had an indoor climbing wall constructed by John Hattink and Darrin Carter. We believe our facility which has been designed, constructed and outfitted by climbers is one of the very best available in the greater Brisbane area. Already we are receiving very positive feedback from climbers who have visited the gym.

Our philosophy is to develop a climbing gym for climbers. We are a not-for-profit organisation, and although we charge for entry we are not a commercial venture that is profit driven. This philosophy allows us to cater for the climbing community by setting routes that are closer in nature to outdoor routes and by creating an atmosphere that is more in line with the teaching, training and promotion of the sport rather than one of competition alone.

"THE ROCK" is located at 49 Eastern Rd, BROWNS PLAINS (off Webber Drive). Our phone number is 3809 4100 or you can contact our manager (Dan) on 0410 620 981.

Our opening night will be held on Saturday evening the 20th of May, from 6:00-9:00pm. Entry is free and all are invited to come along and see what we have to offer. Food and drink will be available on the evening. (con't...)

(...con't) We are also hosting a climbing competition in mid to late June. Routes for the competition will be set by Darrin Cater and friends. More details of the event will follow.

Opening hours

Tue, Wed, Thur

6:00pm - 9:30pm

Sat 

6:30pm - 10:30pm

Sun

10am - 6pm

 

Fee structure 

Adult 

$8

10 visit pass $70

U/18 yrs

$6 

10 visit pass $55

K2 Extreme members

$5

10 visit pass $45

Local Youth 

$3

10 visit pass $27

Harness 

$2

Chalk bag 

$3

Shoes 

$4

 

We look forward to meeting with you on our opening night.

Brett Wood 
Spot Director 

thespot@mail.adlink.com.au

Dan Taylor

Rock Manager