Mt Tibrogargan

 

Routes are listed from L to R.

 

Big Empty 30m 20
Line of four BR's up wall just R of Short And Sweet. This is technical slabby weirdness on great rock. Bring some medium cams to protect the upper half. Belay as for tree on S&S. This pitch can be linked with Adrenaline Gives Me Gas or Circlet to give a sustained outing.
Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin 26/3/2000

overhangtopo.jpg (88988 bytes)

Above: Click to view topo map of the Upper Caves on Mt Tibrogargan

 

Circlet 16m 22
Very exposed steep thugging on the wall right of Adrenaline's second pitch. Starts at the top of Short And Sweet and traverse L a few moves then up and around the arête to a small cave. Now blast up the slopers to finish at A's anchor. Three ringbolts and two FH's.
Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin 26/3/2000

 

Above: Neil Monteith leading the first ascent of Circlet (22).

 

Sunburnt Buttress 184m 19

Lots of rock, bolts, and air; a Lost Boys style adventure for the masses. Start as for Rock Garden (just left of Peeping Tom pillar on Shadow Glen). Bring SLCD’s 0 - 3, wires, 8 brackets, and helmets. Route gets sun until 3pm, hence the name!

1) 28m (18) Up Rock Garden for a few moves then climb wall on right past six BR's to U-bolt anchor.

2) 30m (15) Trend easily left across Rock Garden to FH. Keep climbing diagonally left past another three FH's and a BR, then run it out with marginal gear to small ledge and U-bolt anchor.

3) 25m (crux) Beware - lots of loose rock on this pitch. Lee copped a falling rock on his back on the first ascent. Straight up past three BR's then traverse directly left over rotting rock past one BR and two FH's to arrive safely on ledge and U-bolt anchor. You’ll want a confident second!

4) 36m (16) Start going left then up exposed headwall with improving rock quality past seven BR's to reach U-bolt anchor.

5) 45m (14) Finally some good rock. Trend slightly right past thin cracks heading for the dead tree up high. Five BR's and some assorted small cams will get you to a large vegetated ledge and big chain.

6) 20m (10) Easily up wall above to arrive at bushes and the north-east summit ridge. No protection on this pitch. Double ring belay.

To descend: Rap down three pitches then rap straight down to gully and big tree. One more rap will get you on the ground. Leave 1.5 hours for descent.

FFA Neil Monteith (led all), Lee Skidmore 19/03/2000

Kitsch 9m 22
Good stuff! Starts at same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly R to first of three black FH's. A pronounced crux lunge will get you to the second, then it keeps you going past the final FH to top. Rap off tree or downclimb corner.
Lee Skidmore, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 2/4/2000

 

Mt Stuart

 

Routes are listed from L to R on the Playground.

 

High Noon 15m 19

Slabby but steepening face R of Unidentified Flying Organisms with four FH's

Rick Wittkopp, Cherie Noon 17/2/2000

 

Stuttering Ego 20m 22

Climb Holiday to the ledge. Up until possible to clip FH on L arête, then down and climb the arête direct. Three FH's in all.

Steve Baskerville, Jason Shaw 4/2000