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Sunburnt
Buttress 184m 19
Lots
of rock, bolts, and air; a Lost Boys style adventure for the
masses. Start as for Rock Garden (just left of Peeping Tom
pillar on Shadow Glen). Bring SLCD’s 0 - 3, wires, 8
brackets, and helmets. Route gets sun until 3pm, hence the name!
1)
28m (18) Up Rock Garden for a few moves then climb wall on right
past six BR's to U-bolt anchor.
2)
30m (15) Trend easily left across Rock Garden to FH. Keep climbing
diagonally left past another three FH's and a BR, then run it out with
marginal gear to small ledge and U-bolt anchor.
3)
25m (crux) Beware - lots of loose rock on this pitch. Lee copped a falling
rock on his back on the first ascent. Straight up past three BR's then
traverse directly left over rotting rock past one BR and two FH's to
arrive safely on ledge and U-bolt anchor. You’ll want a confident
second!
4)
36m (16) Start going left then up exposed headwall with improving rock
quality past seven BR's to reach U-bolt anchor.
5)
45m (14) Finally some good rock. Trend slightly right past thin cracks
heading for the dead tree up high. Five BR's and some assorted small cams
will get you to a large vegetated ledge and big chain.
6)
20m (10) Easily up wall above to arrive at bushes and the north-east
summit ridge. No protection on this pitch. Double ring belay.
To
descend: Rap down three pitches then rap straight down to gully and big
tree. One more rap will get you on the ground. Leave 1.5 hours for
descent.
FFA
Neil Monteith (led all), Lee Skidmore 19/03/2000
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