|
"Petit
Sport Climbing" - A New Development
By
Shane McCarthy
A new climbing area is under development in the South Burnett region. Martin Donohue and Shane McCarthy have been hard at work, piecing together this
petit sport climbing crag. Routes are short and steep, with considerable technical difficulty. All bolting has been done with 316 stainless steel expansion bolts, and are equipped with fixed hangers.
The history of the area’s development is a turbulent one. Originally the area was to be top roped, a practice ground if you will. It was quickly realised that the quality of climbing was too good to leave the area undeveloped. With a distinct lack of natural protection available on the routes, bolting was the only option. Currently 17 climbs have been completed, but only 5 have been freed. The area has potentially 35 - 40 routes, ranging from grade 12, up to the high 20’s.
Several enjoyable routes have already been established. Vagas Vagal (19) has a hard overhung start leading into a sustained headwall. The amazing arête climb,
Percolated (18) should become a favourite, and a current project Pink Bits (24?) will prove quite a conquest. These short routes (10 - 18 meters) will not be everyone’s cup of tea, and the area is by no means a major climbing venue, but it’s a nice change if you’re in the area.
Considerable time and money has been poured into this development, so it is with great disappointment that the location of the area is temporarily undisclosed. The good news is that once completed, a guide book will be available, and is already being compiled. The area will have free camping, but no amenities, and is four wheel drive access only. A case of rad climbing meets trad access.
|
