The Sentinels

 

Introduction

 

A 60m wide section of E-facing cliffline bounded on either side by large facing corners - the Sentinels. It's a pretty little area with five routes and potential for a couple more for those who are interested. Most parties however will only go here to play on the overhung sport route Srama

 

Access

 

The Sentinels are located in the Glasshouse Mountains near The Hidden Slabs on Mt Ngungun. After crossing the railway line in the Glasshouse Township, turn R onto Sahara Road. Follow this for a couple of hundred metres around L. Turn L at the intersection continuing to follow Sahara Road. A large chocolate brown slab is visible high on the hill. This is The Hidden Slabs. However, The Sentinels is the white-looking section of cliff partly visible through the trees to the L of the Hidden Slabs, above the old quarry. At 1.4 km along Sahara Rd, turn L into Springburn Drive then take a quick R (Stonehaven Lane) and follow this to the top. Turn L and drive up to the quarry fence to park. Follow the fence R-wards and then follow a vague track up through the scrub to locate the rock (eight minutes). The area is close to houses so please keep noise to a minimum.

 

Climbs are listed from R to L.

 

A route was attempted up the overhung face of the R Sentinel on top rope. It's uncompleted and anyone's welcome to try it.

 

1) Groove Armada 25m 17

10m L of the R Sentinel and 6m R of biggest tree. Up the groove past a couple of trees to short but steep wall. Fill the crack with good gear, then strenuously up on pockets, running it out to finish at the bizarre, U-shaped tree. A confident leader is required, as a fall near the top could be serious.

Lee Skidmore, Took Smits 20/2/2000

 

These next two routes are located on a clean, low angle slab in the middle of the wall between the Sentinels, and 8m L of the biggest tree.

 

2) Butterfree 20m 8

Good rock. Up seam into small L-facing corner at half height. Continue straight up to rap off the largest tree on the ledge.

FSA Lee Skidmore 21/10/99

 

3) Caterpie 20m 7

2m L and immediately R of gully. Up onto small ledge, then into crack with bomber gear to bulge. Either through bulge, or to avoid loose blocks, traverse R and finish up Butterfree. Rap off.

FSA Lee Skidmore 21/10/99

 

4) Srama 8m 22

Religious exertion. Sporty pockets and huecos up an overhanging wall. About 15m L of Caterpie in the gully just R of the L Sentinel. Scramble up the gully and lean across to clip BR. Pull on and launch into the sequence passing two FH’s to finish at double rings. Originally climbed to the top. Don't top rope directly off the rings - use quickdraws. Hint: it's much easier with a pre-placed long draw on the third bolt.

Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits 6/2/2000  

 

There is a good boulder problem in this gully traversing the wall from L to R.

 

5) My Little Sphinx 8m 12

15m L of Srama. The cracky weakness up the middle of the L-most piece of climbable wall. Meow!

Erik Smits, Philippa Newton 6/2/2000

Above: Lee on the first ascent of Srama (22), The Sentinels.