Mt Coonowrin Shock Closure!

On the 14th December 1999, Mt Coonowrin (Crookneck), one of the major Glasshouse Mountain peaks was completely closed to all recreational groups by the Department Of Environment (DOE). The reason for this closure was due to the "High to Very High Risk of rock falls from the cliffs around Mt Coonowrin" noted by one geologist who published a Stability Assessment of Mt Coonowrin during April 1999.

 

The unpredictable nature of Mt Coonowrin rock is well known to climbers, who minimise the risk of injury by using safety equipment, good judgment, and climbing within their ability.

 

The most concerning aspect of the closure was the total lack of consultation with the user groups of the Glasshouse Mountains before the surprise closure. User groups were only told of the impending closure one day before the entire area was closed, even though the DOE had the geological assessment of the area since April of 1999. The South East Queensland Rockclimbing and Abseiling Management Forum was established to negotiate access issues such as this one. They were not approached prior to the closure.

 

A meeting for concerned parties was held on 20th Dec 1999. The minutes of the meeting can be read offline here. A second meeting was held at Kangaroo Point on 17th Jan 2000. At the meeting, it was decided to continue with the public awareness campaign, as well as try to send a pair of lawyers to meet with the Minister. (con't...)

Coonowrin Closure (cont)...

 

Letters back from the Government indicate that "more information is being sought and a fuller response will be forthcoming". Therefore, it is asked that concerned parties write letters. Your local member is a good starting point, or write directly to the Minister:

 

The Minister of the Environment, Heritage and Natural Resources,
Mr Rod Welford,
PO Box 456,
Brisbane, 4002,
Fax 07-3210-6214
Email - Environment&Natural@ministerial.qld.gov.au

 

For a summary of good points to argue, check out the minutes of the first meeting.

 

Thanks largely to Karl Palsson, you can find a lot of info (and summary of the first meeting) at the CRookneck Action Group (CRAG) Website http://www.tweak.webcentral.com.au/uqrc/crookneck/

 

You can join the CRAG mailing list by sending an email to
crookneck-subscribe@tweak.webcentral.com.au
or by visiting

http://www.tweak.webcentral.com.au/uqrc/crookneck
/mailadmin.htm

 

For more info about CRAG, email Karl Palsson.

 

--LS

Above: Marten Blumen on Acid (22) during the early days. The old chain (now removed) is visible near his left hand.

Retrospective Action

Since returning from climbing the perfectly equipped routes of the USA, Neil Monteith has begun re-bolting some of his earlier first ascents. Shadow Glen was the first cliff which came under the drill. The previously runout and dangerous The Black Planet gained three new bolts, creating a well-protected crimpy sport route. A new direct finish past two new bolts was added to Flame N' Sparks as well as a lower off anchor installed. This route is now 25m of some of the best rock on Tibrogargan. The manky sling anchor on Brit Pop has also finally been replaced with a good lower off.

The steep gully route Acid, at Ngungun has also had a makeover. The infamous single chain lower off is gone and the top has been rebolted for a hopeful bottom to top ascent. A two bolt rap anchor has been installed at the top. 

For several weeks the first bolt on Dawn Raid (on the pillar) was without a hanger and bolt head thanks to some thieving climber. This has since been replaced.

The manky sling on The Gymp is Sleeping at Brooyar has been replaced with a chain. 

--Neil Monteith
North Queensland Climbing Comp

The competition was held at The Rockface Climbing Gym in Townsville in late 1999.

"Well it was good, but I didn't climb as well as I could. The first route in the opens was fairly easy, and all bar a couple of people topped out. That was pretty much a formality. The finals route was absolutely awesome.
Doug [Hockly] was really creative in the course setting. It was an endurance route that went through a 45 degree overhang on some decent holds, a tricky move at the lip of the overhang, before a pumpy and thinish traverse out R for about 5m before a final crossover move on a seriously small hold to a finishing jug to make the final clip off.

Well I cruised up to the traverse made the 2nd last clip, and got the 2nd last hold, attempted the cross through to the final hold but fell just short. I was shitted off because I rushed it, and really should have made the move. Anyway four people topped out and the route was thinned out. In the end three people made it to the same hold in the thinned-down route, Nathan [Bolton], Kris [Burke] and Rick [Wittkopp]. So it went to times and Nathan won, ahead of Rick and then Kris."

--Steve Baskerville

Darrin's Gone!

 

The 20th of October 1999 heralded the end of an era. Darrin Carter ceased working at K2 in Fortitude Valley. Darrin has worked in the store for over six years, and has been instrumental in helping hundreds of climbers get started (like me!). 

 

Darrin is a veritable trove of climbing knowledge and enthusiasm, and he will be missed by those wanting a gossip and a good deal. His successor, taking over climbing in K2 will be Gareth Llewellin (at least until February 2000 when he leaves for the States!).

 

Darrin's not quitting climbing though - on the contrary, he'll be doing more than ever, with trips to Buffalo, Arapiles, and perhaps overseas in the near future. 

 

When you're at the crags, keep an eye out for the stocky ball of muscle with big hair and a monster pack and say 'Hi'.

 

--LS

X-Games Action

The first weekend of December 1999 saw some big names in Brisbane for the Extreme Games.

The format was weird. Due to some freak of nature, there was no lead wall, instead, the climbers had two wall-roof-wall setups, each of which had four boulder problems (therefore eight in total). The competitors had 30 minutes on each wall, and points were only awarded for having both hands on the top hold.

Male open results - 1st Garth Miller, 2nd Saxon Johns, 3rd James Scarborough

Female open results -1st Carlie Happ, 2nd Christina Beddard 3rd Sam Berry

In the male juniors, local climber Glen Foley put in a strong performance to finish in the top few.

--LS

 Queensland Climbing Site Revamp

Queensland's most popular climbing website, The Original Queensland Climbing Reference located at http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/9586 is being completely re-tooled and will make its debut on an ad-free host (http://www.immortal.net.au) within a month or two.

The new site will feature clickable picture galleries, route guides, and information on most crags in both south-east and north Queensland.

--LS

North Queensland Climbing  Slide Night

Doug Hockly will be holding a slide night to promote his "A Climbers Guide To Townsville and Magnetic Island" at K2 in Brisbane on Wednesday 2nd Feb 2000.

The approximately one hour show  will start at 7pm and cost $2 to cover the cost of hiring K2.

So if you're thinking about a tropical climbing holiday, go to the show, as there will be 65 colour slides and a discussion of North Queensland climbing by one of Queensland's most talented climbers.

--LS

 Ngungun Thieves

As reported above, fixed gear was stolen off the pillar. It was replaced by Neil Monteith during Jan 2000.  Climbers are reminded that fixed gear such as hangers and rap anchor 'biners are not booty!

As usual, there has been a spate of car break-in's at Ngungun, as well as the other Glasshouse carparks. One climber reports: 

"When we got back to the [Ngungun] carpark, the back window of the Ute had been smashed in and Max's bag was stolen from the back seat. There was one more car in the lot and it was also smashed up, it looked like they tried to take his stereo. There was also a lot of glass spread around the parking lot from other cars."

Just as predictably, police efforts (if any) have done nothing to reduce the amount of break-in's. Don't leave anything in your car, and if you are broken into, report it to police ASAP so they realise the scope of the problem.

--LS