Dwarfland, Glasshouse Mountains   Introduction Located in the State Forest south of Mt Tibberoowuccum, this is a pure sport crag of diminutive proportions and was entirely developed in three days! Gym climbers will be well-accustomed to the length of the routes. Despite their small length, the routes are all quite taxing, and are well-bolted to prevent your legs snapping off in the event of a fall. The rock is very hard Tibrogargan-esque trachyte with various features including edges, slopers and pockets. All you'll need is six quickdraws, a rope, and the stickclip you learned to make in this issue's Gear Talk!   Access Turn L off the Glasshouse Mountains Tourist Route at the Rest Area (marked 'Forestry Nursery') as for accessing Mt Tibrogargan. At the railway bridge, turn L and follow Caves Road (signposted) for 2.5km to the Tibberoowuccum turn off, but don't take it. Continue for 500m and park off the road. Walk L into a small swathe of pine trees, then trend up parallel to road for 50m or so, then head further into the scrub away from the road along flat ground. Locate the two hills. Your goal is to walk into the valley between them until spotting Dwarfland high up on the R hill. Walking time 15 minutes. To preserve access rights, walk softly and carry all rubbish.   Routes listed from R to L.   The first two routes are located on the NNW facing, black, columnar wall you reach when you approach the crag, which is in sun nearly all day.   1) * No Biggie 12m 21 [image] Up onto ledge, then sustained and technical stemming up the smooth shaft passing 4 FH's to rap rings. Superb rock past the bolts, but mind the top. Lee Skidmore, Neil Monteith 8/1/2000   2) Elfin 12m 22 2m L. Some big moves, with a fair bit packed into it's length. 4 FH's and a balancy top section to rap rings shared with No Biggie. Neil Monteith, Lee Skidmore 8/1/2000   Various top rope problems exist on the wall L of Elfin.   20m L and around the corner. Located in the junction of the two main walls.   3) * Like Icecream For Spiders 10m 19 The first route at the crag. Up the corner for a few metres then traverse R onto face. Up this past four FH's to DBB. Dan Pit, Scott Lawrence 9/1998   The next routes are further L on an E-facing, orange-streaked face which gets shade from lunch onwards.   4) * Nadir 10m 18 2m L of toe of buttress starting at the horizontal. 3 FH's with rap rings on L, shared with De Shrünkenklimb. Good holds, good rock, varied moves. A mini classic. Lee Skidmore, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith 12/01/2000   5) * De Shrünkenklimb 9m 23 5m L of toe of buttress. Stickclip first FH, then bouldery moves straight off the deck. Sustained and powerful face climbing past 3 FH's to rap rings. Neil Monteith, Lee Skidmore 8/1/2000   6) Red Dwarf 9m 22 Smeg! Starts 4m L of De Shrünkenklimb at the orange rock. Sporty, but somewhat loose climbing up incipient seam with 3 FH’s to rap chains. You’d better stickclip the first FH. Lee Skidmore, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith 12/01/2000   7) * Bijou 8m 23 An achievable project. 3m L of Red Dwarf on L of wall. Big, dynamic throws on great, marble slopers is on offer. Some burly hugging caps things off. 3 FH's to rap chains. Neil Monteith, Lee Skidmore 8/1/2000 Above: Neil Monteith repeating his little jewel, Bijou (23) at Dwarfland, Glasshouse Mountains.

 

Mt Tibrogargan   Rain Drops 60m 14 On the south face, about 100m L of the South Face Route. Look for a jutting prow of white broken rock about 50m up. This route starts on tree-lined ledge, above ground level, about 15m R of the prow. 1) (10) 20m Up easy buttress with good pro to ledge with large pocket. Belay off several large cams. 2) (14) 40m Trend L and up past PR and fixed RP into faint, L-leading weakness. Follow this with minimal protection to small ledge and chain. Rap off with double ropes. Gary Meyrick, Scott Lawrence (alt) 11/99   A direct line has been top-roped (and half bolted), that leads to Rain Drops’ chain from the ground. It will be grade 16 and two pitches long. It is a project of Scott Lawrence and Neil Monteith.

The Rain Cave, Brooyar   Introduction This small area is about 1.5km from Point Pure and is partly visible from the road off to the R. Park off the road before the yellow "S - curves" road sign and walk up R toward the rocky outcrop. Walk down around this to encounter a large roof with solid huecos and fins. Superb roof bouldering with great landings are to be found here, even when it's pouring rain, which is the area's main drawcard. None of the following problems allow use of the bottom ledge.  Problems listed from left to right. Come And Get Me 4m V2 The line of huecos in the roof, perpendicular to the lip, starting as far in as possible on an undercling pocket. Work straight out the pockets to where it blanks, then throw up R and move up to the top flake, then (as for TJNNFT) out this to the jug 1m before the lip. Erik Smits 29/12/99 Just Keep Hanging On 6m V3 (project) [image] A pumpy endurance number. The smooth flake starting on the very far L and traversing R (remember, no bottom ledge). At the end, drop down to the next flake, then a long move past blankness (crux) and continue to finish on little prow. Done to crux: Lee Skidmore 29/12/99 There's Just No Need For That 3m V0 A good warm up. From the middle of the smooth flake, go up and out towards lip on the line of jugs. Finish at the jug 1m before the lip. Erik Smits 29/12/99 Zilch V1 A zero move problem! In the middle of the smooth flake are two very sloping hand-sized pocket-slots. Chalk like mad then hang for 5 seconds feet-free to get the tick! Pure sloper power only - pinching of any kind is not allowed. How long can you hang?  Lee Skidmore 29/12/99 Above: Lee employing tongue power on Come And Get Me V2