The American Stickclip - how to create the advantage

By Neil Monteith

During my recent trip to the USA, I noticed many climbers at sport crags using extendable metal poles for stickclipping the first bolt on a route. These were very popular at places with high first bolts like Smith Rocks - Oregon, Owens River Gorge - California and Jacks Canyon - Arizona. One climber we met in Arizona used a six metre pole to pre-place quickdraws on the entire route before his 'onsight' attempt. Although sportclimbing is not very popular in Queensland, a stick like the one described below would be perfect for climbs at places such as Kangaroo Point, Ngungun and Brooyar. 

The traditional Australian method of stickclipping has always been rather crude - find a suitable tree branch at a cliff, tape the carabiner on the end and then prop the gate open with a small stick. Invariably the tree branch snaps, the 'biner falls off and the gate shuts before you even get the stick near the first bolt! Numerous times, I have taped the 'biner on with too much gusto and not been able to pull the stick free, so leaving a stick to contend with when climbing to the first bolt. With a little practice, the so called American Stickclip, can be used to put on, remove and place keyhole hangers on any bolt within about four metres of the ground. If you get the biggest pole you should be able to reach an extraordinary seven metres up, thus being able to clip the anchors on many routes at Nowra!

 

The American Stickclip pole will take about fifteen minutes to construct and cost around $16 for a 1.8m pole to about $34 for a 6m pole. The main pole is purchased from either a hardware store or a golfing gear shop. The poles work like a car radio aerial, they compact in various sections to a manageable length. A twist of the pole locks it into its extended position. The hardware store pole, the shortest but most robust, makes a great walking stick when being taken into the crag. I found a version of this pole, A Rota Cota Steel Extension Pole, in Mitre 10 in Brisbane for $14. It extends from 1m to 1.8m - not quite long enough for the first bolts on some Girraween routes! It only extends in one section making it relatively short. The advantage of this pole is that it is tough and the cheapest. These poles were originally designed to aid in painting house ceilings. The poles purchased from a golfing gear shop were designed to retrieve golf balls from water traps. Instead, for climbers, they make a great compact and long extendable stickclip. Golf World in Brisbane sells them in three lengths - 3m for $22, 4m for $26 and 6m for $33. These poles are quite light and delicate, so take care when lending them out to mates at the crag. I have seen one returned to its hapless owner bent at 90 degrees. The other item required for this device is the attachment point of the 'biner to the pole. I saw many variations of a theme in the USA, but the best and cheapest seemed to be a large spring-clip purchased from a Newsagent. These can be picked up for around a dollar. Get the biggest one possible, about 10cm in length is perfect.

Above: Gareth Llewellin demonstrating the technique on Red Dwarf, Dwarfland, Glasshouse Mountains.

The final step in the construction is to attach the spring clip to the pole. Many people just tape this on with Gaffer Tape in an upright position. I made a bit more of an effort with mine and cut a 3cm deep slit in the top of the pole with a thin saw, which I could then slide in one arm of the clip and secure it in place with glue. Backing it up with tape kept it all together.

Now it is time to use your new pole. Place the top carabiner of your quickdraw in the clip with its gate open. The clip's spring will hold the 'biner in an upright position and the gate open with ease. Now, its just a matter of trying to get the 'biner through the darn bolt hanger! 

HINT: These poles can also be used (when your belayer's not looking!) for scoping out the size of holds on the route before you go for the 'onsight'.