Serpent

Medusa 15m 23
About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging pocketfest past three FHs.
Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones 10/99

Mt Stuart

Listed L to R on the Playground.

Pringle Factor 22m 22
A possibly serious DF to Swait Factor. Take #1 RP’s.
FTRA Andrew Doubleday 
FFA Doug Hockly 98

Oh Schtoowert 17m 18
Up Flashdance to the ledge then take the flake-groove on the L. The placements are okay but the rock’s a bit dodgy.
Doug Hockly, Andrew Doubleday 98

University Wall

Just A Piece Of Paper 8m 18
Crisp edges on the nicest rock here. Located L of The Graduation. The light-coloured face reaching R into the corner and finishing on holds on the little arête. Anyone’s welcome to bolt it.
FTRA Doug Hockly, Jason Shaw 9/99

West End Quarry

Quark 17m 23
A couple of good slaps up the overhung arête R of Synergy. Start on the RHS. Up solid rock to a hold-your-breath mantle over the last roof (the large flake on the L is loose). Anyone’s welcome to bolt it.
FTRA Doug Hockly 8/99

Harveys Marbles

Harveys range bouldering (Harveys Marbles) area has been discovered. To get to the bouldering take the first left at the top of the range (signposted to the army training area). Drive to the end of the road where the army fence begins. Boulders are just over the embankment on crown land (L as you look toward the fence). Head due east for the "cow paddock" area (150-200m away) or due north past "the slabs" (20 m away) to the "fun parlour" area (150-200m away).

These directions will get you to two of the best areas with unlimited potential for good problems (V0 - Vanythingyoucandragyourselfup) and good landings. Check out the low slab at the "FP" with good V0's for a warm up and the steeper boulder behind (it has a small detached block with a good V1 up the face on the front and a tree squashed up next to the other end of the boulder). This boulder also has a good slab/arête (V1) left of the detached block and an excellent V2/3 just left of this (beside the small tree). You will pass (approx 100 m) an obvious boulder (V3 arête just left of the tree roots starting from the obvious undercling and good easy slab on the boulder just left) on the way to the "cow paddock" area look for the obvious V2 "bum crack" near the stretching slab. Also a fantastic/large boulder SE of this problem (highball V0+ goes up and down the obvious face/arête) with good potential steep problems on the back wall.

Many other areas exist (contact me for more info) and a rough guide is being prepared. If visiting this area please do not stray onto the army land, take all rubbish with you, respect others animals and plants living there and don't bolt boulder problems. Rock quality is variable with the areas mentioned having excellent featured granite (mostly off-vertical). However, be careful with some crumbly spots and some of the holds can be fragile). The landings range from poor to generally excellent. Boulder heights are variable with much for beginners. The altitude is over 2000ft so even summer is pleasant (particularly in the shady areas: "the terrace") and the mornings and afternoons can be cold.

Please be considerate and we should all be able to continue bouldering in a pleasant and beautiful area for many years to come.

Have fun!!

--Madoc Sheehan