Chookneck 25m 21

By Lee Skidmore

"Crookneck? Are you insane?" It's often pretty hard to convince partners to venture out to Coonowrin (Crookneck) in the Glasshouse Mountains. It's three hundred and seventy seven metres of steep, uncompromising, underprotected, unpredictability. However there are exceptions, and this is one of them.

Chookneck was established along with the six routes around it on the south face of Coonowrin in the early to mid 80s. It was done by Paul Hoskins. Of the six routes on the wall, it's arguably the best. It's been described by some people as the best 21 in the State. While I don't agree, it is a well protected classic and should be on the ticklist of  those leading the grade.

Right: Coonowrin and Beerwah. Chookneck is in the shade on the L side of Coonowrin. Photo: Lee Skidmore. 1999.

The route starts up an easy wall which allows you to get used to the strange rock and protection. At 8m, you swing L to a perfect finger crack running up an arête and plug in a small cam or two. A couple of concerning moves sees you to the top of this where you swing L again into a body slot where you can get a bridge rest. Cranking through a small but pumpy overlap sees you at a big jug below a huge roof, but by this stage you are way pumped and feeling mighty exposed. This only gets worse as you move L and into overhanging territory to try to find the anchors, which consist of four wires in a crack clipped with a 'biner. Hang on for the ride! You lower off free-hanging in space nursing abused forearms, but with a great view in every direction.

Getting there: Walk up the Coonowrin walking track until you hit the rock. Turn R and make your way around for about 50m and locate the route by using the topo map provided above (previously published in the Col Smithies Glasshouse Guide - thanks to Col and John Fantini who drew it).     Do a write-up on your favourite route for the next issue!