Looking For The Sun  40m 19

By Lee Skidmore

Brooyar presents a very unusual climbing genre for South East Queensland climbers. You won't find any Frog cracks here! Brooyar contains at least five separate crags, all of which are sandstone. Many routes are overhung, pocketed and sportingly bolted giving pumpy climbing reminiscent of the Blue Mountains. In true Blue Mountains fashion, many bolts placed in this area are dangerous, so take care. If a bolt wobbles, chances are it's about to fall out! The Forestry Department has placed large, safe ring bolts at the top of most Brooyar routes making descents and belays very easy.

Right: Lee scoping the next moves.

Looking For The Sun 40m 19
The best route at Eagle's Nest  - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start at the mini-arête below the most impressive section of orange wall. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the wall above (some people choose to aid past this move, others try to desperately bridge the pillar). Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and the second FH. Beautiful jugs up and R to third FH, then up and L to a crackline. Up this placing lots of gear, then more juggyness past fourth FH to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave (fixed hex) and take the pumpy, black, overhung crack to the top. Superb!

How To Get There From Brisbane:
Brooyar is situated about 20 km north west of Gypmie. From the 80 km/h sign as you leave Gympie drive north for 10 km to the Kilkavan turnoff. Turn down this and drive along for 5.6 km to find the Brooyar State Forest turnoff on the left. This dirt road meanders through the forest with numerous small roads branching off on each side. At 3.4 km down this dirt road take the left turn at the road branch. At 5.9 km you will reach Eagles Nest crag.

Eagle's Nest is a fifty metre high wall directly below the lookout. To reach the base, walk to the left side of the wall (when facing out) and scramble down to the base. Walk back along the cliff for 70m to the large orange wall. Looking For The Sun climbs the largest section of this wall.

The Brooyar Online Climbing Guide is available at The Original Queensland Climbing Reference.

Do a write-up on your favourite route for the next issue!