Mt Ngungun

A whole swag of newies were established at Ngungun during the early part of 1999. For route descriptions and a topo photo, see http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/9586/updates_b.html

 

 

Mt Beerwah

A couple of new aid routes have gone up near the overhangs, put up by Darrin Carter and Gareth Llewellyn. Gareth's, named Cuddles, is finished, while Darrin is still at work on his.

 

 

Mt Tibrogargan

Although details are sketchy, a couple of new modern routes have been established about 150m L of Carborundum Chimney on Tibro. These routes are located somewhere in the vague vicinity of Clemency and are outfitted with bolts and chains.

 

 

Kangaroo Point

Routes listed from R to L.

 

Devined 10m 21

About 10m R of Earth To Stella is a steep, smooth wall with a series of cracks. Climb this progressively harder wall with good natural pro to a rap station. No mantling or escaping R onto the ledges!!

Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits 22/4/99

 

The next route took nine shots over five months. May's freak cold snap produced a  dry, cold, and windy day which finally allowed the completion of this new route located about 30m L of Fowl Deeds In The Chookhouse. The holds benefit from a brush before climbing, especially after rain.

 

Miasma 20m 23

A strange and powerful crux. Starts 4m L of BR (marked "GR" in guide) and directly in front of light. Up smooth slab to first of four black FHs. Easy ramble up ledges to FH. Nice moves to third FH and delicately to last FH. Layoff and pinch the blunt arête like mad then bridge up the shaft to chains [see pics in an upcoming issue].

Lee Skidmore 15/6/99

 

At the eastern most end of the cliff next to the old naval building and behind the large oversized navigation buoys. The cadmium plated bolts on these routes have now been replaced with stainless steel.

 

Bouldering:

The Austin Powers Traverse (V3)

From the wire fence down to the blocky crack and back again.

Peter Stebbins 3-99

 

Throw me a Freak'n Bone (V1)

Big dyno up seamy face near wire fence/building.

Chris O'Neill 3-99

 

Yeah Baby, Yeah! (V0)

Highball blocky crack on R end.

Peter Stebbins 3-99

 

Climbing:

The following two routes are on the overhanging face above the bouldering. Scramble up weakness to access from L to R (tree belays).

 

Mutant Sea Bass 10m (25)

Up face to overhanging bulge. Through this with difficulty to top. 2 FHs.

Peter Stebbins, Chris O'Neill 24/3/99

 

International Man Of Mystery 11m (24)

Start 2m R of MSB. Up face (no bridging) to ledge. Traverse right and up through overlap. 2 FHs.

Chris O'Neill, Peter Stebbins 15/5/99

 

 

Castle Hill

New boulder found on the back side (facing Mt Stuart) of Castle Hill. Info submitted by Madoc Sheehan. To contact him, email madoc.sheehan@jcu.edu.au

 

Easily accessed from the end of Skully St which is off Knapp St. Park where the dirt track/road begins. From the parking area and looking up at Castle Hill walk 10m to a trail and follow this right for 40m to the other side of the creek (cross the rusty pole..oooohhh). From the other side of the creek turn left and follow the rock slabs past the "peaces" [? - Ed] boulders. Either walk up the left or right hand creek drainage for about 3 mins until it is possible to scramble up slabs between the two drainages. At the top of these slabs you will see the large boulder off to the right (it actually lies in the right-hand creek drainage). It will be obvious when you find it. All up it should only take 5-10 mins from the parking area.

 

Good problems include a fine overhanging V2/3 traverse about 10m long on big jugs (not yet linked together).

 

There are also many good steep up problems from V0 to potential Vhorrible. Check out the left hand arête (V0, V1 and V2) and the gully on the right (3 V0's (1 done by Sarah Sheehan) and 2 V0's on adjoining boulder (also done by Sarah Sheehan). A fine excursion through the middle of the wall (obvious) awaits an injection of courage and strength. The landings are quite reasonable although a spotter would usually be appreciated. Shady in the afternoons.

 

 

Mt Stuart

 

The following two routes are located on Wallaby Wall, an area of Mt Stuart which is amassing quite a number of good quality routes.

 

Crucifixion 15m 21

The first climb on Wallaby Wall's main cliff section. Start by climbing the 2m high block, before climbing onto main rock section then clipping the first of four FHs. Move up and clip the second FH. A rest, then footwork and a R-hand pinch grip will see you through the crux and clipping third FH. A L-hand layback will see you up to R-hand jug and fourth FH. A couple of medium to large wires will see you through to the top and a SBB.

Andrew Thorogood, Simon Thorogood 2/4/99 (Good Friday)

 

Resurrection 20m 20

Starts 2m R of C. Climb up placing wire in R-hand layback crack, before moving up and clipping first of six FHs. A sloping mantle will see you up to a #0.5 cam in pocket (long sling) on the flat face. Climb R where a big R-hand hold (#1 cam) will lead you up and R to a horizontal break (#1.5 cam) with an undercling below roof. Clip second FH over small roof and clean the cam below you. Move up over roof and onto blank face (crux), clipping third FH. A #0 cam and fourth FH will then see you up onto huge rest ledge. Two further FHs will see you through the second cruxy section to exit.

Andrew Thorogood, Bradley Mann 4/4/99 (Easter Sunday)