Trojan 72m (13)

Located high on the east face of Mt Tibrogargan in the Glasshouse Mountains lurks the mighty Trojan. First climbed back in 1966 in sandshoes (!) and with almost no protection, it is the epitome of uncontrivedness. Looking at Tibrogargan's "head" from the ground, there is no way you could envisage a grade 13 route going through such imposing territory. That's partially what makes the route so fantastic. When you're on it, you are surrounded by overhanging rock and yet you can somehow pick your way through it without resorting to any hard moves.  

After the amazing first ascent by Les Wood and John Tillack in 1966, the route came under the hammer with dodgy bolts sprouting everywhere. Earlier this year, Trojan had a facelift to take it back to what is essentially it's original condition, with all bolts removed except one in the third pitch belay cave to replace one which is supposed to have been placed by the first ascent team. It is a bold climb, but well within the abilities of most beginners to second. You'd want to be comfortable leading grade 17 to take on leading duties.

Route description:

Starts top L of "The Scrub" and marked ‘T’. To get to the start, do the Caves Route, which is an easy grade 2 route up the east face. Most experienced climbers solo this, but roping up in some sections could be advisable.

1) 14m (crux) Step out L from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Runout in top section. #1, #2, #5 cam and #4 wire useful at belay.

2) 14m Another bold pitch. Walk L across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 SLCD in slot) up into cave. There is a single FH with ring in the cave for the belay, but you may wish to step out of the cave (exposure!) and set an anchor up in the third pitch crack. Right: Marten Blumen on the second pitch.

3) 15m Step out of cave and climb finger-crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far R of ledge (two 50m ropes) which provide an escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

4) 15m Climb the crack-corner to ledge.

5) 15m The original tackles the chimney. However, it is better to avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack to the L. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

Getting down from the top:

Walk down the track on the west side. It'll take you about 40 mins to 1 hour. Alternately, experienced climbers can downclimb the Caves Route.

Getting to Mt Tibrogargan from Brisbane:

The Glasshouse Mountains are situated about 65km north of Brisbane and are plainly visible from the Bruce Highway. To access the Glasshouse Mountains Township from Brisbane, take the signposted ‘Glasshouse Mountains Tourist Route’ off the Bruce Highway and follow the signs to the Glasshouse Township. The directions to the respective mountains are given below. Please note, the parking spots at the base of the mountains are known to have problems with break-ins with cars left for the day. It is not recommended that you leave any valuables in the car, so take wallets and cameras with you when you leave.

A passenger train also runs regularly through the Glasshouse area and takes approximately one hour from Brisbane.

After taking the Glasshouse Mountains Tourist Route off the Bruce Highway, drive for about 6.5km to a L turn marked 'Forestry Nursery' (before reaching the turn-off for the Glasshouse Township). Take it. Drive under the bridge, then up and along the dirt track past the nursery, then take the signposted L-turn towards the mountain (sandy dirt track). You'll pass at least one brown and yellow National Park sign saying ‘Mt Tibrogargan’ before reaching a car park.